| virux |
every so often my car decides to not turn on its engine..
i could use to jump the battery and turn it on..
i do not know why this happens.. but today.. even worse.. i jump it... it doesn't even work... they purposely changed my alternator a second time already just to ensure it don't happen.. but i don't know if this time its the alternator if i even attempt to jump start my engine and it doesn't even twitch..
anyone have or had a similar problem?
is there any permanent solution? I did not pay for a brand new car and except problems like this to arise every so often like it is a second hand car.. |
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| Eric L. |
| Sounds like a bad battery or battery cables. Might want to check the connections for corrosion. |
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| Eric L. |
| If you do find that its corrosion, you can clean it off using a mixture of baking soda and water. Then apply a coating of a water repellent grease (such as white lithium grease) to the terminals and tighten then down. Should keep the whitish powder (corrosion) away from the terminals for a while. |
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| Gonzo |
| My vote is a defective battery.... I bet there isn't any corrision on the cables. Bets anyone? |
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| hfelknor |
quote:
Originally posted by Gonzo
My vote is a defective battery.... I bet there isn't any corrision on the cables. Bets anyone?
NO Deal!
Homer |
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| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by Gonzo
My vote is a defective battery.... I bet there isn't any corrision on the cables. Bets anyone?
Gonzo-
You would like to believe the dealer checked out the battery before changing the alternator for the second time. Maybe I am giving the dealer too much credit; I often forget that they are not trouble-shooters.
Also, it would help if virux let us know what year his MO is.
Anyway, I think you are right.
-njjoe |
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| virux |
wow that sucks! maybe i should get a new terminal post maybe from streetwire or something?
anyway imma have it towed back to the service center at nissan and have them do a thorough diagnostic on my vehicle.. and have them make sure its done.. cause I'm sure they don't want me coming back and i don't want to keep going back lols
cause this is crazy.. attempt to jump the car and it doesn't even twitch.. all i hear is the clicking sound trying to fire up the engine lols |
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| virux |
hopefully it is a defective battery Lols
its a 04' Murano njjoe |
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| Eric L. |
| The clicking noise you hear is the starter motor not getting enough juice from the battery to crank the engine. It should jump though (even if it means starting the engine completely from the other good battery) with the correct connections. If its all connected up in the right order, and still doesn't crank, I'd suspect corrosion on the battery terminal or cable. You don't need a new cable or terminal for that, just a cleaning. Or it could be something as simple as a loose connection (try wiggling the cables at the terminal to check, they should not move). |
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| virux |
oh alright.. i'll bring it back to nissan and have them do something about it.. not comfortable with electricity.. and see if its defective battery or corrosion or both.
thanks
let ya know whats up after i get it checked at nissan. |
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| biggun |
BTW,
If you are attempting to jump the car with one of those cheap jumper cable that come with those all inclusive emergency kits, then don't waste your time. Those things can't even power a radio amp let alone a car. The weak spring at the clamps and the light weight feel usually give these things away.
I've found that when the battery is dead enough, the cheap cables won't work. I've invested in some high end jumper cable - like on tow trucks and have never had a probloem with the tranfer of power from the dead car to the jumper car. I believe I got them from NAPA auto, which was about $60. These things are heavy and have the clamping power of a lobster. When I have a problem starting a car, I don't have to second guess whether enough power is being transfered or not. |
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| virux |
it turns out to be a loose post problem!
fixed in a jiffy! |
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| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by virux
it turns out to be a loose post problem!
fixed in a jiffy!
Loose post? Was the cable clamp loose on the post? Or was the post itself loose on the battery?
BTW, I am glad they were able to locate and repair the problem. Now the big question is... why didn't they locate the problem earlier? Like before they installed a second alternator?
-njjoe |
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| Eric L. |
| I would guess Joe, that the battery cable was not tight on the battery post. |
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| gang |
quote:
Originally posted by Eric L.
I would guess Joe, that the battery cable was not tight on the battery post.
Somehow, I am still puzzled by the fact that jump-start didn't work... unless the jump cable claws grabbed the the posts instead of the cable clamps? |
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| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by gang
Somehow, I am still puzzled by the fact that jump-start didn't work... unless the jump cable claws grabbed the the posts instead of the cable clamps?
Yeah that is odd. I've had cases where jumpers did not work on other cars, and in every case, it was because the ground cable was connected to something that was not actually grounded (for example a painted bolt instead of the engine block). Maybe thats what happened here. |
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| njjoe |
Something does not seem right. I find it hard to believe it is nothing more than a loose battery-terminal connection.
If the dealer replaced the alternator he would have had to pull the positive cable from the battery and reconnect it again to start the car. He should have checked the negative connection after he tightened the positive post.
If it truly was a loose connection, then I give the dealer a big thumbs-down. :28: The electrolyte level and connections should have been the first things they checked.
-njjoe |
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| virux |
quote:
Originally posted by Eric L.
I would guess Joe, that the battery cable was not tight on the battery post.
bingo..
but you know what now..
i leave the car for a 4-6 hrs or or the next day which is now for the case.. it barely started my car..
you guys know how smooth of a start off a MO give you.. like *rum!*
and thats it.. for me now.. its *ru..ruu..ruu..rum* that start off sound that barely had enough power to jump it.
still gotta bring it back in and have them fix my dam problem once and for all (at least not patch it up). |
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| njjoe |
virux-
It looks like Gonzo may have nailed this. Have you considered replacing the battery?
Also, have you added any aftermarket equipment (i.e.: amplifier, powered sub-woofer, etc.) that may be draining the battery while it sits overnight?
-njjoe |
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| virux |
quote:
Originally posted by njjoe
virux-
It looks like Gonzo may have nailed this. Have you considered replacing the battery?
Also, have you added any aftermarket equipment (i.e.: amplifier, powered sub-woofer, etc.) that may be draining the battery while it sits overnight?
-njjoe
Yeah I have an amplifier.. but the amplifiers are off when there's no signal received fromt he remote wire right?
and I've had this amplifier for quite a few months already. This problem has been going on way before my amps were even installed. Also my capacitor shuts off in 1 minute after a minute of idle time as well.
Ever since I had my car to the point where i had my aftermarket amps and cap. installed... it did this about 5-7 times.. turning my engine off for 30 minute.. with keys out. then thats it.. no battery.. had to get my friends come find me and jump it.. this sucks.. i feel that i could have spent money on a second hand car and problems like this probably wouldnt happen. and to thought buying a new car wouldn't have such problems to persist. LOL |
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| gang |
quote:
Originally posted by virux
Yeah I have an amplifier.. but the amplifiers are off when there's no signal received fromt he remote wire right?
Not necessarily, but if the amplifier is properly installed, removal of ignition key should cut off the power to the amplifier. You may want to check how much current the battery is being drained when the key is out. It shouldn't be more than a few tens of milliamps. |
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| Tyler_Canada |
| I believe it's possible to damage a battery by running it very low. I'm worried about that myself after running my battery dead on the weekend. I notice it doesn't seem to have as much power as it used to. I still have to check the water level, but the posts are connected firmly. |
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| njjoe |
virux-
Let's do a little more trouble-shooting.
On those days when your MO did not start was the battery completely dead or did the lights, stereo and everything else still work? If they did not work then the battery is either being drained or it cannot keep a charge. If the the lights and stereo still worked then there may be a problem in the starter circuit.
You battery may be suffering from what is called parasitic draining. Parasitic drain is a load put on a battery with the key off.
A car's lead/acid battery will suffer irreparable damage every time it is significantly discharged. Although it can be recharged, it will never have the same initial capacity and it's life will be shortened. If you have needed to have your battery jumped 5 - 7 times then it is most likely damaged to the point that you should definitely replace it.
I would definitely opt for a new battery.
I hope this helps.
-njjoe |
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| Eric L. |
| An automotive store like Autozone will actually load test your battery for free, might be worth a shot, although form what you tell us, I agree with everyone above that its time for a new battery. For recommendations, search the forum - Optima, Duralast Gold, Diehard, and Interstate come highly recommended. |
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| virux |
service guy told me its what you guys said about the battery and it needed to be replaced.. the battery will not give enough cranking power anymore. and to address the troubleshooting..
there were totally no power lol.. headlights were dying.. interior light were dying... etc. it just needed a jump..
thats what I find weird though. during those times.. no kind of aftermarket equipment was added lol.
even though I have aftermarket equipment installed.. I am pretty sure that the amps shut off once my keys are off because the remote wire is tapped with the power source of the HU or something like that where there is constant power for as long as my keys are turned to on. Next week I'm going to bring it to the shop and have them re-tap it to the antenna power wire instead so i can turn off the amp when the HU is not on.
Maybe I had a battery to begin with? anyone have thoughts about that? Maybe I was the unlucky one with the dumb battery lol.
btw, I didn't really want to have nissan give me a replacement but they were checking on it already, so I might as well.
Anyone have recommendations on Beefier batteries that they use on their murano? |
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| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by virux
service guy told me its what you guys said about the battery and it needed to be replaced.. the battery will not give enough cranking power anymore. and to address the troubleshooting..
there were totally no power lol.. headlights were dying.. interior light were dying... etc. it just needed a jump..
thats what I find weird though. during those times.. no kind of aftermarket equipment was added lol.
even though I have aftermarket equipment installed.. I am pretty sure that the amps shut off once my keys are off because the remote wire is tapped with the power source of the HU or something like that where there is constant power for as long as my keys are turned to on. Next week I'm going to bring it to the shop and have them re-tap it to the antenna power wire instead so i can turn off the amp when the HU is not on.
Maybe I had a battery to begin with? anyone have thoughts about that? Maybe I was the unlucky one with the dumb battery lol.
btw, I didn't really want to have nissan give me a replacement but they were checking on it already, so I might as well.
Anyone have recommendations on Beefier batteries that they use on their murano?
Do a search on this site for dozens of battery recommendations, some of which are listed in one of my replies above. I use a Duralast Gold (purchased about a month ago), group 35. |
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| njjoe |
virux-
If your dealer is giving you a Nissan battery free-of-charge, then that would be fine. However, if he intends on charging you for it then I would opt for a non-OEM battery. There are many batteries out there that will give you more amps for the buck. Interstate, Duralast, and Die-Hard all are good batteries for your MO.
-njjoe |
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