| Kris |
It's been annoying for some time now - the steering wheel shimmy due to brake rotors warping. I had them resurfaced but the phenomenon came back. Last two days I had to drive the FX and there is absolutely no shimmy! The brakes are different, granted. they do not grab as suddenly as the Murano's still I like the fact there is no shimmy! I have been entertaining an idea of getting new rotors, not OEM's though. My research took me to this site. Look at this "frozen rotors" rotors
Anybody has any experience with them? Are they worth the money? |
|
|
| nissanlove |
| they look enticing... |
|
|
| Lightninrod |
Several of the F150 Lightning owners that road race or go to driver's schools use those or a similar brand rotor and have nothing but good things to say about them.
They may be "overkill" on a Mo though...:D
Dan |
|
|
| mgthe3 |
crown vics are horrible about warping their rotors and this is supposed to be the fix.
I know I have one that is warped as well Kris, since about 15k miles.
Slowing down on a ramp from 80 it actually growls.
The old CV my dad gave me for my son about jerks you to pieces stopping. At $20 a piece though, it is hard to justify gettin some cryo treated ones instead. (for the CV)
Now for the Mo? HMMMmmmmmmm...
Oh, I forgot to say.... they have been doing this for a while on gun barrels and engine cranks and rods with excellent results. |
|
|
| Kris |
I have to say I am really tempted. $280 for a pair an dpieace of mind.......and the FEELING! I think it is worth it. I should have done it a year or so ago.
OK, in a month or two I will have some time, for new rotors I mean... ;)
Will report the results. |
|
|
| Corin |
I have heard that the "warping" of rotors is actually not a warping, but rather deposits left from the brake pads in circumstances when both the rotor and pad are VERY hot and they have significant pressure holding them together, thereby causing a VERY thin layer of the pad to become fused with the rotor. This gets worse over time because now the rotor surface is uneven, and that little bump left before hits the pad every time around, causing more and more buildup.
Basically, this happens when you brake hard (or for a long time) which heats up the parts, then when you come to a full stop you keep your foot held on the brake, thereby maintaining the pressure and allowing the bond to take place.
Supposedly the way to avoid this is to release the brake right before you come to the complete stop, if possible. So if you have to brake long or hard, try to leave just a little bit of room so you can let up at the last moment.
Now, all this information has come from random internet sources, and we all know how reliable the internet is. So it might be a bunch of bull. But I've been trying that for several years now, and I haven't had one case of "warped rotors" since being mindful of this. I had to turn the rotors on my old Del Sol twice in 3 years until I started this tactic, and in the 1.5 years of ownership after that I didn't have any "warped" symptoms.
Just some food for thought. |
|
|
| Lightninrod |
I believe it/you Corin. I often shift into neutral(when I know I'm going to have to wait a bit and I'm not on a slope) when waiting just to let the brakes cool down a little.
Dan |
|
|
| Kris |
Corin,
you could be right. But I am always aware of surroundings and anticipate braking. My brakes last very long time. Look at my other posts with measurements of pads and rotor thickness. I rarely brake hard, only during emergencies. In the mountains I use CVT. So my braking is not a factor.
I have never had this type of problems before. I know it is not that bad any my wife does not even notice it but I am kind of oversensitive when it comes to certain issues. I want no shimmy!
Lightninrod
you might be right about overkill. But if I do not have shimmy and do not have to do anything for the reminder of the car ownership - I fine with it. |
|
|
| Corin |
quote:
Originally posted by Kris
Corin,
you could be right. But I am always aware of surroundings and anticipate braking.
As do I, but there are also times when I do have to brake hard or for an extended period of time (i.e. there is a very steep 3/4 mile hill by my house, and going down that can certainly heat up my brakes, especially if I let my MO pick up some speed first).
Just think about this when you're driving around, and you'll probably notice some times when your brakes could be heating up a bit, even without "emergency" situations. It really doesn't take much to start heating brakes up. They can withstand quite a bit of heat and still function perfectly fine, and I have no idea how hot they would have to be to leave deposits. But it seems to me that combining hot (not burning) rotors/pads with no motion and a lot of pressure (holding your foot on the brake at a dead stop) could be the recipe for a bond to happen. |
|
|
| Kris |
Corin,
if this is the case a simple "polishing" of rotors should restore their "flatness".... |
|
|
| RayH |
| Using a torque wrench on the nuts to the proper torque rating can also help prevent rotor warping. |
|
|
| Eric L. |
| You can also order similar rotors from Porterfield Brakes - they have a cryo treated option as well. I put cryo-treated Brembo blanks (i.e. not slotted or drilled) on my Maxima and they complemented the R4S pads very well. I plan do the same for the MO when its rotor time. |
|
|
| Kris |
Corin,
thanks for the links. Very interesting reading. It does make sense. The question now is what to do with the old rotors? Turning may help for a short time only. Still the cryo look very good. |
|
|
| dmatre |
When I was racing my '86 Integra, I would warp a set of rotors (front) every 30 minute session. I was changing rotors between sessions, and having them all turned after the event - which was tedious and expensive.
I tried the Cryo-treated rotors (factory rotors, treated by Porterfield) out of desperation, and NEVER had to change the rotors due to warping again. A set of cryo-treated rotors lasted 3 or 4 sets of Performance Friction Red pads - which was about 1.5-2 seasons. That's quite a change from 30 minutes (or 1/6th of a weekend).
If the warpage is truly warpage, and not deposits on the rotor, then I'm relatively certain that getting 'Frozen Rotors' or 'Cryo-Treated' rotors will resolve that issue for you. |
|
|
| Gonzo |
I had my MO in the dealer at least two or three times for warping/vibration issues... Applied TSB to address vibration while braking. Parts replaced: 41060-CA093, 41080-CA28
I had one other issue a year later, they resufraced and so far its been OK. |
|
|
|
