| samwlee |
My dealer said that my rotors needed to be resurfaced. approx $225 for the front and $250 for the rear. Is this needed? Is this too $$$?
Thanks! |
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| njjoe |
samwlee-
Why? What problem were you experiencing?
And yes, $475 is way too much to resurface 4 rotors. The MSRP for the front and rear rotors is $111.23 and $99.91, respectively. That would be $422.28 for a set of 4 new rotors. It would be cheaper to purchase 4 new rotors. This dealer is definitely out to hose you (where have I heard that before? ;) ).
If the rotors are definitely causing a problem, I would opt for new rotors, it will save you $$$ both short-term and long-term.
-njjoe |
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| Kris |
| I do not know if you need it or not. However, in most cases only front rotors need this operation. How many miles do you have? How severe your problem is? If you really want to get rid of it, I mean fix it forever go for frozen rotors from here rotors . It will cost you approximately $280 for front, and this is what you really need, but your problem will be solved permanently. If you want something else - go to an independent brake shop, They will do it much cheaper then the dealer |
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| samwlee |
I have 24,500 miles.. Did a tire rotation, and the tech noticed that my pads were down to 3 mm... and that the rotors needed resurfacing. Brakes seem strong still, a little more vibration that say 5000 miles ago..
I'll prob take it to a meineke or monroe to do the brake job, but wanted to hear opinions on the price.... |
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| Snowride |
| Normally it's no more than $30-$40 a rotor depending on the garage. The dealer will most likely not be set up for this and will out source it to whoever. Problem today is most economy car new rotors cost about $35 so not many will turn them down as the cost of a new one is the same. |
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| redlands murano |
when i resurfaced all four rotors at my mechanics, $40 out the door. they are really easy to take off, take off wheels and calipers, and they slide right off. took them about 30 min to put them on the lathe and turn them.
the reason the dealer charges so much is because they have a machine that mounts on the mo with the rotors still on the vehicle. guess they have to justify the special lathe. |
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| Pat03MO |
| I assume you're out of warranty. I had warped front rotors at 30,000 miles. Dealer put in new pads and resurfaced the rotors under warranty. (They were too cheap to actually replace the rotors.) For bad rotors out of warranty, I'd recommend getting them replaced at Mieneke/Midas/Sears etc to save some money. Also, if the rotors are still resurfaceable (meaning they will stay above minimum thickness after resurfacing) many brake shops will turn the rotors for free when you have brake pads installed with them. Check around... No matter what though, DON'T go to that dealer who quoted you more to resurface old rotors than to actually replace them anywhere else. Makes it kinda suspicious about the costs of all his different services. :25: |
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| redlands murano |
quote:
Originally posted by Pat03MO
I assume you're out of warranty. I had warped front rotors at 30,000 miles. Dealer put in new pads and resurfaced the rotors under warranty. (They were too cheap to actually replace the rotors.) For bad rotors out of warranty, I'd recommend getting them replaced at Mieneke/Midas/Sears etc to save some money. Also, if the rotors are still resurfaceable (meaning they will stay above minimum thickness after resurfacing) many brake shops will turn the rotors for free when you have brake pads installed with them. Check around... No matter what though, DON'T go to that dealer who quoted you more to resurface old rotors than to actually replace them anywhere else. Makes it kinda suspicious about the costs of all his different services. :25:
as far as going to a brake shop to get the new rotors, good luck. there arent any cheap aftermarket replacements. all of them are about $100 per rotor. |
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| Pat03MO |
quote:
Originally posted by redlands murano
as far as going to a brake shop to get the new rotors, good luck. there arent any cheap aftermarket replacements. all of them are about $100 per rotor.
Below, Checker Auto online shows some front and rear rotors for the MO. And, all these online guys run free shipping deals from time to time. Or one could get them from the store if there's one nearby. (Autozone currently has free shipping for orders over $75.) Granted, a brake shop will definitely charge extra money for rotors if you get them from there.
Part No.YH145571 Wearever BRAKE ROTOR BX WREVR Front
Warranty: 1 Year Replacement Warranty
Buy online,pickup today!
Ships in 1 day $48.88
Part No.YH145537 Wearever BRAKE ROTOR BX WREVR Rear
Warranty: 1 Year Replacement Warranty
Ships in 1 day $64.94 |
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| redlands murano |
quote:
Originally posted by Pat03MO
Below, Checker Auto online shows some front and rear rotors for the MO. And, all these online guys run free shipping deals from time to time. Or one could get them from the store if there's one nearby. (Autozone currently has free shipping for orders over $75.) Granted, a brake shop will definitely charge extra money for rotors if you get them from there.
Part No.YH145571 Wearever BRAKE ROTOR BX WREVR Front
Warranty: 1 Year Replacement Warranty
Buy online,pickup today!
Ships in 1 day $48.88
Part No.YH145537 Wearever BRAKE ROTOR BX WREVR Rear
Warranty: 1 Year Replacement Warranty
Ships in 1 day $64.94
wow. thats a great deal. when i was looking for them about 6 months ago i couldnt find anything under $100. as for auto zone they only offered the rear disks. |
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| BikerJohn |
If you're having problems with brake-wobble (the steering wheel shimmys when putting on the brakes at medium to high speeds); then you may have warped rotors. However, you seem to have very low milage to be having wobble issue.
Are they certain that the rotors are the issue? There are other culprits with similar issues.
I replaced my rotors at around 70,000 km(appr. 43,000 miles) when they started to wobble. It took me about 3 hours to do all four. Once they start; you really can't machine the "wobble" out. The wobble is normally caused when the rotors warp when they get to the wear limit or from over-heated hard braking(caused at high speeds on highways).
njjoe is correct in suggesting to get the rotors replaced and forgetaboutit on having them machined-they'll only need to be replaced again very shortly.
I've learned from experience when it comes to auto parts and that is you get what you pay for. If you're getting for a cheaper price; then compare why it's cheaper. If you can get genuine Nissan parts for a better buy; then go for it.
You could also just get the new pads placed on the car to see if they feel any better.
Anything less and you're asking for problems again-shortly:roadtrip: |
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| samwlee |
How did you get your brakes done under warranty? I thought wear and tear items weren't covered under the 3 yr/36K warranty...
I have 24K miles.. I don't have any wobble or shudder or noise, but was told by the dealer the pads were down to 3-4mm.. I haven't had a chance to take to a Midas or Mineke yet (been travelling for work), but that's where I'll end up going. I'm thinking all I need are new sets of pads.. looking at my rotors, they're clean - not pits or deep ridges... |
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| BikerJohn |
My brakes were done by myself-were not under warranty(I don't think they cover rotors or brakes under warranty since they are "wear & tear" parts).
If you're not getting wobbles; I would just do the pads and ask your service tech measure and report if the rotors are within tolerance. They should be-if they tell you otherwise, get a second opinion. Good luck with that. |
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| zebelkhan |
| While under the 36k warranty, I complained about brake wobble and they turned the rotors and replaced the pads for free....I think a lot of MOs were suffering from this at first (may have been warped OEM rotors) so they did not give us alot of grief and just fixed the problem. |
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| gatr09 |
quote:
Originally posted by BikerJohn
My brakes were done by myself-were not under warranty.....
Any chance you could tell us how difficult that was, replacing the rotors that is....a step-by-step maybe?
I've changed the brake pads myself so I’m familiar with the area. My question to you is…is the process simple?
From what I gather, isn’t this the basic process? See Pic and step-by-step below…
Remove the caliper
Remove the pin
Remove the main nut on the axle
Slide off the rotor
Lube
Install new rotor
Having changed the rotors on a Civic a couple years back, the process was not difficult. Can I expect the same with the MO?
Please help.
My ‘03 MO has 93K miles on it and has never had the rotors replaced…as far as I could tell anyway. I bought it in ‘05 used with 45K miles from a Nissan Dealer.
I want to change the front rotors because they carry a significant amount of corrosion and I fear they might be warped, causing vibrations that I can hear and feel in my feet. I have had my tires balanced so I do not think that is the cause of the vibrations, which have become pretty loud now.
My other fear was a CVT issue, but I doubt that is the case since I had a problem with that almost two years ago where it sounded and felt as if I had a flat tire, causing me to pull over. This is NO where near as severe as that was.
Since I don’t trust the dealer, or many mechanics for that matter, I’m trying to trouble shoot the problem myself.
The vibrating sound and feel does not appear until I hit 10-15 mph. And when I hit the brakes, I get a rocking/interrupted deceleration rather than a smooth stop…and as I said, I have all new brake pads so it's not the pads being worn.
Thoughts? |
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| Ophitoxaemia |
a few years ago i got rotors resurfaced for $6 each at pep boys.
the local shop wanted $15 each and i thought that was outrageous!
remember to rebed the pads after the resurface. |
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| Kris |
quote:
Originally posted by Ophitoxaemia
a few years ago i got rotors resurfaced for $6 each at pep boys.
the local shop wanted $15 each and i thought that was outrageous!
remember to rebed the pads after the resurface.
Where do you live? $15/rotor expensive? you kidding, are you....... |
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| dmtreff |
quote:
Originally posted by gatr09
Remove the caliper
Remove the pin
Remove the main nut on the axle
Slide off the rotor
Lube
Install new rotor
The steps above are incorrect. I just did my rotors this weekend on my '03. There is no need to remove the cotter pin and nut. The rotor should slide right off once the calipers are removed. If the rotor doesn't budge, get a block of wood and a hammer. Place the block of wood against the back side of the rotor and tap on it until the rotor comes loose. Sometimes they rust in place. Normally they are loose. |
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| gatr09 |
quote:
Originally posted by dmtreff
The steps above are incorrect. I just did my rotors this weekend on my '03. There is no need to remove the cotter pin and nut. The rotor should slide right off once the calipers are removed. If the rotor doesn't budge, get a block of wood and a hammer. Place the block of wood against the back side of the rotor and tap on it until the rotor comes loose. Sometimes they rust in place. Normally they are loose.
Yeah I know...thanks for the heads up, though!
I think someone told me that before I did the job about a month ago. The rotor slid right off...that is once I finaly got the top bolt off the calipers which were rusted shut! I think I went through an entire can of PB Blaster and WD 40.:D |
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| Tahoe SC |
oh wow...
took the wife's MO to the dealer for AC and Coolant change today, they said front brakes look perfect after 62K, but rear pads need to be changed...was quoted 330 bucks for resurfacing and pad replacement! WOW!!!
not only this...
wanted 85 to do in cabin air filter and 130 to do power steering flush.
looks like i'll be headed to my local autozone...am already paying 130 for coolant flush and 220 to fix ac leak...no need to bring this up to $800! |
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| BikerJohn |
quote:
Originally posted by Tahoe SC
oh wow...
took the wife's MO to the dealer for AC and Coolant change today, they said front brakes look perfect after 62K, but rear pads need to be changed...was quoted 330 bucks for resurfacing and pad replacement! WOW!!!
not only this...
wanted 85 to do in cabin air filter and 130 to do power steering flush.
looks like i'll be headed to my local autozone...am already paying 130 for coolant flush and 220 to fix ac leak...no need to bring this up to $800!
You can get brand NEW rotors and pads for the rear for less than the 330 quoted if you do it yourself.....
The In-Cabin filter takes 3 minutes to replace yourself; easy to do. There are threads in this site if you do a search for that.
I'm not too sure about the power steering fluid and how often it should be changed. I've got 140,000 km(approx. 90K miles) and have not performed that and all is good. Perhaps others will pipe in to add more light in that area..... |
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| njjoe |
Tahoe SC-
Whose idea was it to change the power steering fluid - yours or the dealers?
According to the 2005 Nissan Service Manual there is no recommended replacement interval for the power steering fluid. In other words, you do NOT need to change it at 62,000 miles.
-njjoe |
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| Stoker |
quote:
Originally posted by BikerJohn
You can get brand NEW rotors and pads for the rear for less than the 330 quoted if you do it yourself.....
The In-Cabin filter takes 3 minutes to replace yourself; easy to do. There are threads in this site if you do a search for that.
I'm not too sure about the power steering fluid and how often it should be changed. I've got 140,000 km(approx. 90K miles) and have not performed that and all is good. Perhaps others will pipe in to add more light in that area.....
I to have gone a long time before flushing out the PS fluid, come to think about it, I have never done it and have never had an issue with the PS system. I also agree in changing out the in-cabin filter yourself, it is easy to do. |
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| Tahoe SC |
i've already swapped out the in cabin filter about 6 months ago after all the fires we had down here...i agree...$85 for a 3 minute job...and that's while talking on the phone and eating a sandwich.
the power steering fluid and all that other stuff was from the tech's recommendation, who said that it looked 'dark'. i'm just going to siphon out and replace...
i work on my own car and motorcycle but just don't do much for the murano, looks like i need to or else i'll need to buy some lube to make it easier on myself when the dealer screws me! hahahah
yea i noticed rotors are like 100 each for the murano...and pads fairly cheap...so about 250 or so for all new stuff...vs. 330 for resurfaced old and new pads? WTH? |
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| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by Tahoe SC
...the power steering fluid and all that other stuff was from the tech's recommendation, who said that it looked 'dark'. i'm just going to siphon out and replace...
Of course he said the PS fluid looked dark. I would bet that if you had just changed the fluid before you brought the car to the dealer he still would have said the same thing. That is one of the key reasons why I do NOT trust car dealers.
-njjoe |
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| Tahoe SC |
quote:
Originally posted by njjoe
Of course he said the PS fluid looked dark. I would bet that if you had just changed the fluid before you brought the car to the dealer he still would have said the same thing. That is one of the key reasons why I do NOT trust car dealers.
-njjoe
LOL...i totally agree! just like they said my in cabin filter needed changing even though i just swapped it out 6 months ago...
i guess i might as well bleed the brakes while i'm doing the pads and tire rotation, etc.
T |
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| ciaka |
quote:
Originally posted by samwlee
My dealer said that my rotors needed to be resurfaced. approx $225 for the front and $250 for the rear. Is this needed? Is this too $$$?
Thanks!
:confused:
475 for machining rotors? Do they do it by hand manually?
LMFAO.
At any place in the non dealership world, it will cost you about 6-10 bucks per rotor.
Tell the dealer to keep dreaming. |
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