| pappabacon |
So I have been reading and reading about installing a hitch in the MO, and I am ready to do it I think. I found the Curt on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Niss...138888898QQrdZ1
Seems to be the cheapest I can find @
129.95 delivered. It should do the trick, no?
Can anyone recommend a place to get the wiring harness? |
|
|
| HuskyFan |
The Curt hitch is a good choice and the price is right. Uhaul sells the hitch for $139 which is also a fair price. I bought the Uhaul hitch and thought it would be the Curt model but I got a Valley hitch instead. I am happy with the Valley hitch so either will work well.
I bought the Nissan wiring harness for $99 and it doesnt require any cutting and splicing the taillight harness. It has power protection and gets its power from a wire already in the existing taillight harness. You can buy a Modulite converter for about $40 which will do the job if you aren't concerned about cutting into the taillight harness. |
|
|
| pappabacon |
| Where did you buy it? I would rather pay the money to not have to worry cutting wires. Do you have pics? |
|
|
| HuskyFan |
quote:
Originally posted by pappabacon
Where did you buy it? I would rather pay the money to not have to worry cutting wires. Do you have pics?
I bought the Nissan harness from my dealer. It is easy to install after you remove some of the interior panels in the trunk area to get access to the tailight harness coming from the tail lights. I left the exterior harness, which was meant to attach to the hitch, coiled up inside the trunk area instead of routing it thru the floor and connecting it to the hitch. |
|
|
| SIM |
In fact, there is really nothing to cut if you install an aftermarket converter. You only need to patch in a few cables already in the back and to install a few relays and a diod. It is quite easy depending on your skill level and it saves $75.
I can help you with the wires color codes if you want to do it yourself. It takes less than half an hour to do.
Of course the OEM harness is plug-in and much easier to install. |
|
|
| pappabacon |
| So I went ahead and got the OEM hookup for the wiring, wasn't interested in something to complicated. After it was all done, I stood back all proud, then realized the trailer for our Sea-Doo's is a 5 pin male. Can someone help me with this? Is it as simple as an adapter? The trailer doesn't have brakes, or backup lights, so I really don't know why it has to be a jerk about things. |
|
|
| njjoe |
pappabacon-
Don't sweat it, a simple off-the-shelf adapter will make them compatible.
Your trailer has a 5-wire connector. There is one wire each for the ground, running lights, brake lights, right turn signal, and left turn signal.
-njjoe |
|
|
| frig |
After looking around the forum for hitch ideas, I was ready to order one on ebay and install it myself. I decided to check out u-haul first, since I have one 10 min away in Toms River, NJ. I ordered one from them for $140 with $30 for install and $5 for warranty. I figured that for $35, there was no way I wanted to mess with it. This price does not include wiring because I'm only using it for a bike rack. Oh by the way, my dealer wanted $1,000 for parts and install. Nice try.
Thanks for all of the help!!! |
|
|
| pappabacon |
| Does anyone know how to wire the 7 wire harness, this would include a wire for brake control, backup lights, and running lights, in addition to being plugged in to the 4 way. It would be more useful for me because I can get a 4/7 way. |
|
|
| pappabacon |
| Thank you, but I don't see where that shows me what wires to connect on the Murano, but rather what the wire colors do on the trailer. |
|
|
| SIM |
7 wires modules is simply the 4 standard ones plus one for the electric brakes, one for constant DC to recharge breakaway kits batteries, etc... and one DC for the trailer equipments.
Nowadays, the smaller 6 wires module is used instead and they dropped one DC wire.
In a '06 up Murano the wiring is different because of LED light systems. You can't get the turn signals from the back. There is a small module of which I already posted a picture in another thread that converts the standard 12 volt DC current for the flashers to a LED signal. You have to get your flasher signals from the DC signal before it is processed in this box. I used 3 x 12 volt relays to feed my $20 converter and 1 diod for the brakes (otherwise, flashing left or right disengages the cruise control as if you were hitting the brakes).
Again, this is not a small job if you have no multimeter to check the signals and it is quite easy actually if you do own one. The brake signal is available at the back, close to the loose OEM trailer connector. I used this 30 AMP 12 volt wire to feed my 6-way constantly ON DC wire. |
|
|
| pappabacon |
| At Wal-Mart they have one where it gives you a 7 plus a 4, so you plug the 4 into the four you already have, then run the one for brakes, and the other stuff you gain from a 7 you don't have on the four. So I would just need to connect 3 wires, since I already have the 4 wired. |
|
|
| SIM |
| pappabacon, "just" having to wire the 3 remaining wires is actually quite a time consuming job to do. You have to buy a brake controller module and install it under the dash, properly connect it and run that wire to the back. If you don't have one, I suggest a good proportional one as opposed to the time activated one. You also have to run 2 new DC wires from the battery and properly fuse them. So, it actually takes longer to wire the 3 extra wires than the 4 basic ones for which the signals are already in the back of the MO. |
|
|
|
