| lilazndemon20 |
| what brand is everyone using here? I went to my local auto zone and they didnt have too many gear oils in 80 w-90. |
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| Eric L. |
| Yeah Nissan specifies a weird viscosity. Amsoil makes 80w90, and my dealer claimed to use the same viscosity for Valvoline as well (although I would bet they use 75w90, the most common one). For the life of me I could not break the fill bolt loose on the transfer case, so I had the dealer do the service for me (front transfer and rear diff). |
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| lilazndemon20 |
| yea i saw valvoline 80 w-90 at autozone along with lucas oil 80 w-90. Do you think it would be ok to use 75 w-90? i wanted to try some royal purple gear oil. |
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| manitoba murano |
80w90 is the normal viscosity, 75w90 is the 'weird' viscosity. They are essentially interchangeable for nearly all differentials that require gear oil (except those that require special lubes/additives).
I haven't had a look at the plugs on the diff, but a good trick on many (but not all) plugs is to crack the seal by tightening slightly (about a tenth of a turn). If the plug has a flange that seals flush to the diff (similar to the way the flange on the oil pan plug seals flush against the pan), then this is obviously not a suitable method of breaking the seal. |
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| Eric L. |
quote:
Originally posted by manitoba murano
80w90 is the normal viscosity, 75w90 is the 'weird' viscosity. They are essentially interchangeable for nearly all differentials that require gear oil (except those that require special lubes/additives).
I haven't had a look at the plugs on the diff, but a good trick on many (but not all) plugs is to crack the seal by tightening slightly (about a tenth of a turn). If the plug has a flange that seals flush to the diff (similar to the way the flange on the oil pan plug seals flush against the pan), then this is obviously not a suitable method of breaking the seal.
The problem is that clearance required to get a wrench to the fill bolt on the transfer case is very very slim, perhaps 2-3" at most. Its hardly enough for a normal socket wrench, and you would a VERY long 10mm box wrench to crack is loose. The longest one I could find was 14" long and it still didn't give me enough leverage to crack the bolt loose, even after squirting penetrating oil on it. But I imagine its way easier with the car up on a lift, than me on the ground. |
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| manitoba murano |
| If you can get a wrench on it, do so, and take a bigger box end wrench, slip the closed end over the end of the wrench of the bolt (effectively extending the length of the wrench, and the leverage), and this should give you enough leverage to crack it. A small length of pipe would work too. Believe me, there are hundreds of ver tight spots on numerous cars with check /fill/drain bolts, and many of them require little tricks to increase leverage to crack them open. Being under the car can help, but you often still need a bit more wheaties. |
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| lilazndemon20 |
| jus finished changing out the rear differential oil. filler bolt is right above the drain bolt btw. both are 10mm allen heads. Had to remove the EVAP boxes (i think thats what they are) to get to the filler bolt. 2 12mm nuts. other then that it was pretty straight foward. time to take it to a mechanic for the transfer case! |
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