| victor |
I signed a deal for a MO SE w/ Touring pkg with a US dealer and paid $1000 deposit. Suprisingly, the dealer called me yesterday saying that the $1500 rebate is not applicable to the Canadians and wanted to change the contract. The rebate was written down in the contract.
Just don't know how careful you must be when deal with the dealer!
Any idea to fight back? Thanks a lot in advance! |
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| Tyler_Canada |
| I would tell them no. Tell them the rebate stays or you walk. |
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| hfelknor |
Fight back?
Because Nissan won't honor the rebate to the Dealer?
You have your priorities all screwed up.
Ask the dealer what he can do.
You can't expect the dealer to eat the $1500.
If he makes you an offer, then consider it.
If it does not meet your expectations, then walk.
But fight back?
Fight Nissan if you feel you must make this an adversarial relationship.
Homer |
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| jkster107 |
They pulled a similar switch on me. I asked them for the incentive financing instead of the rebate, and they came back with ok during negotiations.
They called two days later saying Nissan Corp. hadn't approved me for the lower rate and that I would have to resign if I wanted to keep the car. The rate wasn't that much higher, and I really wanted to just leave that place (for good) with my car, so I signed the modification. They'd already screwed up my credit rating by applying to eight other banks after telling me Nissan would finance me.
In hindsight, I should have let them sweat it out. Tell them that you've been talking to another dealer (Lexus, Honda, etc.) and if they don't give you the rebate, you'll leave and buy somewhere else. You should be able to void the contract if they try to violate the terms. |
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| njjoe |
Victor-
You are buying your MO from a US dealer and then registering later in Canada, correct? If that is the case I don't see why the US-dealer is not offering the rebate, since you are buying your MO from his stock.
I checked the Nissan website and they offer little in the way of details. However, it does state "Cash back when you purchase from new dealer stock. See dealer for details. Offers end 10/1/2007". Ask the dealer to see specifically where it states the rebate is only for cars registered in the US. He may be right, but for $1,500 I would want to see it in writing.
Good luck.
-njjoe |
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| Corin |
I would argue (same as I'm doing right now with my general contractor on our house remodel) that they gave the contract as written, and everything is signed. Since it's THEIR mistake of not checking out all the details before giving you the offer, then too bad, they have to eat that $1500.
Now here's the catch. If they would have told you INITIALLY that the $1500 didn't apply, would you have still purchased the vehicle anyway? IF SO, then I suggest TRYING to get them to include that rebate, and asking them where it states that is not applicable (like njjoe said), but if they give pushback, just accept it and be happy with your vehicle. If you get too hot-headed over it, that will spoil the whole fun of taking your new car off the lot.
Of course, if that $1500 (or just annoyance with the dealer) WOULD be a deal-breaker, simply tell them that and be prepared to walk away and try again elsewhere if they don't back down. |
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| GripperDon |
| Their is always another deal, another car , another stealer. For get about it, Have a cool one and go vist it next month. Life it too short to argue with anyone about anythin and you soure don't need them they need you . Don't forget that. Hang tough. |
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| manitoba murano |
Not exactly on topic, but further to the cross border purchase issue...
http://www.cbc.ca/canada/ottawa/sto...lassaction.html
Nutty how the Range Rover, at US prices, is only about $8k more than a fully equipped MO lists for in Canada. At new prices, the Cayenne is even closer in price. |
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| Tyler_Canada |
quote:
Originally posted by Corin
I would argue (same as I'm doing right now with my general contractor on our house remodel) that they gave the contract as written, and everything is signed. Since it's THEIR mistake of not checking out all the details before giving you the offer, then too bad, they have to eat that $1500.
Exactly my reasoning. |
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| BikerJohn |
| I thought that Canadians living in Canada could not purchase a brand new vehicle from a US dealer? Buying a used vehicle that has been issued an ownership pink in the US is ok to buy; but I was under the assumption that a US dealer could not issue a brand new ownership paper to a Canadian resident. I know several people who have made deals with US dealerships and when it came down to finalizing the papers; they couldn't do it because he was not a US citizen. I'm not too sure about victor's situation but perhaps this is just the first of his problems...... |
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| manitoba murano |
| Yes, a Canadian can buy, and import, a brand new car from a US dealer. I believe there are actually detailed step by step instructions on Customs and Excise, Canadian Border Services websites. |
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| BikerJohn |
| I am aware of the site; but my understanding was that it was for used vehicles. I'll have to have a look again..... |
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| Nizmo |
quote:
Originally posted by hfelknor
Fight back?
Because Nissan won't honor the rebate to the Dealer?
You have your priorities all screwed up.
Ask the dealer what he can do.
You can't expect the dealer to eat the $1500.
If he makes you an offer, then consider it.
If it does not meet your expectations, then walk.
But fight back?
Fight Nissan if you feel you must make this an adversarial relationship.
Homer
Har Har Har~ |
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| jkster107 |
Read some really interesting articles on consumerist. Recommended if you're about to go out to buy your next car:
http://consumerist.com/consumer/how...rice-296553.php
Also check out the one about the Four Square sheet... those dirty, low-down, money grubbing, grumble, grumble.... |
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| hfelknor |
Here are some reactions to the list.
I'm not trying to shoot it down entirely, but at one time I made a living selling cars in Tempe AZ.
And I have bought far more cars than most people around here. (Check that thread with previous cars owned)
2. Call around first anonymously (such as calling from work on your lunch hour), and get prices. Tell them you are calling everybody, and the best deal wins. Write down the prices you are given, and note any difference in packages.
You won't get the best price and you won't talk to the most important people....such as the Fleet or Internet Manager.
"Junior" won't be able to give you a good, firm price because he needs to get OK from the SM. The SM won't negotiate over the phone.
3. Pick the dealership you think you want to do business with based on the results of this phone call. Price should not be the decider -- demeanor and gut feel should be....
This is perhaps the silliest one of all.
"Do business" with the low price provider.
You can take it anywhere for service.
Of course if they try something or insult you, then leave.
4. Go to the dealership you absolutely NEVER want to do business with. Nail down the details on the options -- go for "loaded," then whittle it down to find the approximate prices for each option. Make a detailed list with prices. Mark the options you must have and those can do without.
I would walk away from you as soon as I see that you are not serious about buying the car but are just trying to find out what the discount is on each option.
The total price is discounted, not each option. Because all options are not priced by the OEM with the exact same markeup, you will spend hours trying to find information that is of no importance.
I take it back. THIS one is the silliest. ;)
5. Do your research online and compare your pricing research with others and experts. Set an "ideal price" and an "I can live with it" price for the car you want with all the options you want, and again for the car you want with the minimum options you want. You now have a low and high figure for the car.
Not a bad idea. Now why don't you do the sensible thing and since you are online anyway, why not email or fax the Internet Manager (Or fleet manager) and ask for his best quote. Best to send message to 3 or 4 dealers at once and don't hide the names of the deallers. Let them see that you are going for the best quote from their competition.
6. Go get cash or a a pre-approved car loan for something less than the upper amount. Put the cash or check in a blank sealed envelope. Find out ahead of time how to deal with the pre-approved loan if the negotiated amount is less than the amount on the bank check. You do not want to have to leave the dealership to get a new check for a smaller amount, so try to arrange something in advance for this contingency.
I buy for cash so I can't comment here but it seems to me that you should get a credit Union loan approval for MORE than the upper amount.
As to the blank, sealed envelope....who wrote this, some kid?
7. Call your insurance carrier and tell them you are buying a new car. Do as much of the paperwork ahead of time as possible and determine the hours they can service you so you can avoid delays or surprises at delivery time. (Any delays benefit the dealer.)
Not worth the time for me. I know that State Farm covers me automatically for 30 days when I buy a car. I have plenty of time to call them or take it around......
And back when I financed cars, my guy would give a binder in a matter of minutes. Way before the dealer could "makeready" the car.
8. Go to the dealer you want to deal with -- on a weekday, in the morning. Get dropped off or, ideally, have a friend or significant other go with you. (It always helps to have a witness.) Bring a sack lunch and drinks with you. You're not leaving or letting your attention wander until you have a car.
There is no dealer that I want to deal with.
I deal with the low priced provider.
9. Find the exact car you want. Use your list...this shows you've done your homework. Don't be surprised if your salesman suddenly has to handle an emergency and hands you off to someone else. This is a good sign that you have the upper hand already.
I have no idea why a salesman would hand you off simply because you have settled on a car. Believe me, that is what the salesman WANTS you to do. "Settling" a customer on a specific car can be a difficult and time wasting part of the sale.
10. Show them the envelope. Tell them you have cash/a pre-approved loan check, and three chances to get it from you if you can drive out by an exact time (by 3 PM is usually good), all paperwork done, taxes paid, and every other fee under the sun taken care of for less than the amount in the envelope. Do not give any hints about the amount, make them name heir price. If it's way out of sight, don't say anything. Just laugh and head for the door. They'll chase you down and give you a much better number. If they don't, go elsewhere.
Of course you could use an empty envelope here........Bwahahahahaha.
Look this is big people business.
Forget the phony envelope.
Make your offer, consider his counter offer, make a counter-counter offer etc.
11. Read everything. Twice. Have your friend do the same. Line out anything you don't agree to or doesn't apply, initial and date this and have the dealer rep do the same. Do not leave any blank spaces. Count the papers and make sure you get copies of all of them. Ask if there are any programs you need to opt out of to avoid being automatically signed up for them. Do whatever is required to opt out.
Don't be silly.
The contracts and sales forms are the results of many hours of legal eagle time. You can ask the guy to waive something (And then lining it out or adding it with BOTH initials is possible I suppose) but the chances of him doing it without consulting with the dealership's attys is not likely.And as to consulting with they attys......not gonna happen.
If you want to buy a car for the "best price", follow my suggestions at #5. Buy the car in February on the last business day of the month.
Like any business. even the one YOU are in, some people have no principles.
But Don't approach me with a total lack of human respect. If you do I will walk away from you. There are too many good people in the world to deal with a customer who treats me like sh&t.
A sales guy today is lucky to make $100/200 on a sale.
You sell maybe 1 of every 4 or 5 people you work with.
The customers want the dealership to make $200 and split it amongst every body.
But they want modern clean facilities with a huge inventory and they want only top of the line people to deal with. People that they want to pay less than $10 hour......
The dealer gets the holdback, but he doesn't share it with the salesman, so sometimes the salesman makes $50, before taxes, for 4 hours work. Then you go back and see him when the car doesn't run right and expect him to stop selling and go argue with the service department for you........After all, he made the big bucks......
No, forget the list.
Come into the 21st century and email the specs of your car and let the fleet manager(s) give you the best quote.
BTW the Fleet manager does not negotiate and will give you the best price he can.
(Next month it might be that fleet manager over at another dealership that gives you the best price........)
Homer |
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| special-k |
I just wanted to add a couple thoughts from my experiences...
4. Go to the dealership you absolutely NEVER want to do business with. Nail down the details on the options -- go for "loaded," then whittle it down to find the approximate prices for each option. Make a detailed list with prices. Mark the options you must have and those can do without.
Don't even bother, you're probably not going to get that kind of information out of them anyway.
6. Go get cash or a a pre-approved car loan for something less than the upper amount. Put the cash or check in a blank sealed envelope. Find out ahead of time how to deal with the pre-approved loan if the negotiated amount is less than the amount on the bank check. You do not want to have to leave the dealership to get a new check for a smaller amount, so try to arrange something in advance for this contingency.
I don't see this as brilliant advice. Sure, if you can do cash that's great, but many of us can't chunk up 30 or 40k in one shot for a vehicle.
However, whenever I buy cars I wait for incentive programs. Independent banks and credit unions can't touch the rates I usually get... 1%, 2%... 0% (much less common these days unless you buy a domestic). I financed my MO for 2% through Nissan Motor Acceptance Corp -- the best I could get through a third-party bank was 5.99%.
8. Go to the dealer you want to deal with -- on a weekday, in the morning. Get dropped off or, ideally, have a friend or significant other go with you. (It always helps to have a witness.) Bring a sack lunch and drinks with you. You're not leaving or letting your attention wander until you have a car.
I would /never/ do this. This appears desperate and puts you in a BAD position. "I'm not leaving till I get a car." Well, great, then, they know you're committed and that they have the upper hand. Always have an out. Be prepared to walk out and don't be afraid to get up and leave.
9. Find the exact car you want. Use your list...this shows you've done your homework. Don't be surprised if your salesman suddenly has to handle an emergency and hands you off to someone else. This is a good sign that you have the upper hand already.
The "hand off" is extremely offensive to me. There have been times when I've been "handed off" before I even took a test drive. I find it highly unprofessional and very impersonal. If a salesman is going to make ANY commission on a sale, I don't care how small or large, I expect them to give me their attention and be committed. Otherwise, what the hell do I need them for? 99% of the time I know more about the car I'm looking at than the salesman does (this /really/ irks me) and I know what I want to buy when I'm ready. Salesmen these days do very little to actually "sell" me a car. Now to the average ignorant "Joe Consumer" -- perhaps, but based on the fact that they know very little about the vehicles I have to assume most of those sales are based on B.S.
I've actually [briefly] fantasized about buying a car dealership just so that I could be the one and only honest, decent, respectful place where people could buy a vehicle. Then I realize, I'd probably go out of business right fast because I wouldn't do any of the dirty tricks that most car dealers use to sell cars.
I hate buying cars. |
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| jkster107 |
| lol. For all the nasty talk online about dealers, it is definitely good to hear from the perspective of someone who has actually *been* with a dealer! |
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| njjoe |
Put the cash in a blank sealed envelope?!? :19: Yeah, $30,000 in cold cash in a blank, sealed envelope is always a smart thing to carry around when you go shopping. Who wrote this, a drug dealer? :26:
-njjoe |
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| Tyler_Canada |
Here's one that makes a whole lot more sense:
http://www.fool.com/car/car.htm
It's not a joke, although I thought so at first because it's "foolish". |
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