| dylanursula |
Hey all
I have pollen and or dust that is stuck to the paintwork and wont come off... I have tried the car wash and washing it myself.... any products that would help?
:mad: |
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| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by dylanursula
Hey all
I have pollen and or dust that is stuck to the paintwork and wont come off...
Do you happen to park your car near an atomic power plant? That must be some pretty potent pollen or highly magnetic dust.
Have you tried clay-barring your car?
-njjoe |
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| rtking |
quote:
Originally posted by njjoe
Have you tried clay-barring your car?
-njjoe
Agreed with njjoe - use claybar. That'll pull up all the contaminants in your paint. Make sure you wax afterwards as the claybar does remove wax as well.
Bob |
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| GripperDon |
Wash well, with a wax stripping soap.
Rinse very well
Dry
Clay bay, following direction and use plenty of lubricant
Follow with a light polishing
Finish with Cononite Insulator Wax.
Stand back, put on sunglasses and grin. |
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| dylanursula |
Hey guys
What is clay bar?
Thanks for the info... the pollen went on last year and some how I didnt wash it apart to spray it off at the time. |
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| njjoe |
quote:
Originally posted by dylanursula
Hey guys
What is clay bar?
A clay bar is a very particular grade of fine clay. It is used to remove hard contaminants from the surface of automotive paint and finishes.
All auto stores carry clay bars in their cleaning and detailing section.
Check out the detailing section of this forum for tips and info on clay barring your MO.
-njjoe |
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| Jim D. |
quote:
Originally posted by dylanursula
Hey guys
What is clay bar?
Thanks for the info... the pollen went on last year and some how I didnt wash it apart to spray it off at the time.
It's an older Mothers vid, but the concept is the same no matter what brand you use.
http://www.mothers.com/reelworld/mothersclay.html
Wal-Mart has the best deal on Mothers Clay. |
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| shelland |
quote:
Wal-Mart has the best deal on Mothers Clay.
I buy Clay Magic at Auto Zone for $9.99, which is by far the cheapest clay I've seen, regardless of brand.
I also read a post at another site a few years back from a person that tested several brands of clay - Mothers, Meguiars, Clay Magic, etc. His personal preference was Clay Magic - which is obviously subjective.
As mentioned, clay removes all wax from your car, so don't clay unless you know you can get a coat of wax on before you drive it again. It only takes one clay to become a believer! :)
Hopefully you have a gal to give you a back rub that night, because if you wash/clay/polish/wax, you're going to be sore. Normally takes me about 4 hours per car for the full works.
Do this before you start - it sounds stupid, but I still love doing it every time I clay. Grab a standard sandwich baggie, and put your hand in it. Rub your fingers (inside the baggie) across the hood of your car. Notice anything? Now clay that area and repeat the baggie. Heck, do it right now, and it might convince you to clay sooner rather than later. :cool: |
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| special-k |
quote:
Originally posted by shelland
Do this before you start - it sounds stupid, but I still love doing it every time I clay. Grab a standard sandwich baggie, and put your hand in it. Rub your fingers (inside the baggie) across the hood of your car. Notice anything? Now clay that area and repeat the baggie. Heck, do it right now, and it might convince you to clay sooner rather than later. :cool:
Make sure the surface is CLEAN before you do this, otherwise you're just going to be rubbing dirt/grit into the paint.
This is part of where those "mysterious" scratches, swirls, and "cobwebs" come from.
Clear-coated paint is an interesting thing. It's very easy to put scratches in it, it's much harder to get them out. |
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| shelland |
quote:
Make sure the surface is CLEAN before you do this, otherwise you're just going to be rubbing dirt/grit into the paint.
In case I wasn't clear - just lightly rub your fingers in a straight line for a couple inches. Don't firmly rub it around in circles like you're waxing the car or anything. A light swipe of a couple inches will give you the picture. |
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| special-k |
quote:
Originally posted by shelland
In case I wasn't clear - just lightly rub your fingers in a straight line for a couple inches. Don't firmly rub it around in circles like you're waxing the car or anything. A light swipe of a couple inches will give you the picture.
Yeah that's fine as long as it's gentle. But a dirty surface might give you an inaccurate read anyway. At least if the surface is cleaned first you'll know that what you're feeling is bonded contaminants and not just surface dirt.
Just my preference... I always clean an area before testing to see if claying is needed. |
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| shelland |
quote:
Yeah that's fine as long as it's gentle. But a dirty surface might give you an inaccurate read anyway. At least if the surface is cleaned first you'll know that what you're feeling is bonded contaminants and not just surface dirt.
Just my preference... I always clean an area before testing to see if claying is needed.
Understood - I just always get a kick out of how how you can feel 'crud' on the surface, even though it looks perfectly clean. And more importantly, how incredibly smooth it feels after you clay. |
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| Eric L. |
| I'm inspired to clay bar my MO now too! :4: |
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| Kris |
quote:
Originally posted by Eric L.
I'm inspired to clay bar my MO now too! :4:
When you do it make sure you first clay it....then bar it...;) |
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