Sound deadening installed on 2015 Nissan Murano - Page 2 - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #16 of 25 Old 09-13-2017, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by arfjr1955 View Post
How did you get the clock to display in analog?Is this a stock radio?
thats not the stock radio.. looked like an adroid radio....
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post #17 of 25 Old 10-20-2017, 03:14 AM
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Nice information...
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post #18 of 25 Old 04-15-2019, 01:09 AM
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Hi all,

Since I replaced my stock speakers...
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Finally got around to...
assad and upinsmoke, did either of you (or anyone else that's done similar) have any issues or problems getting the inner door panel back on after putting on the deadener? i'm going to be doing something similar and it would be very helpful to know in advance how much room there is between the backside of the door trim panel and the innermost metal of the door. it seems both of you used .080" material, did you have any problems getting the inner panels back on or could you have gotten more sandwiched in there? if so, how much more room would you estimate is in there? thanks to any and all that shed some light on this so that I only have to take the panels off once and can have all my materials ready before starting. thanks again.
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post #19 of 25 Old 04-15-2019, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Hi @surban1


You should have plenty of room, there is ample space between the door trim and the door. I would not worry about that...

2015 Nissan Murano SV ( Custom MODS )
- Illuminated kick plate (non OEM added)
- RGB Foot well lightning (multiple colors)
- RGB compartment light (follows foot well lighning and color)
- LED DTRL on fog frame
- Cup Holder LED lightning
- Android head unit
- Custom leather seat cover (red accent)
- Custom floor mat
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- SGNL superbright 55W 6000K headlight
- Kenwood powered 150W subwoofer
- Kenwood 600W amp
-LED turn signal
-Accent LED lightning
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post #20 of 25 Old 04-15-2019, 02:35 PM
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Hi @surban1


You should have plenty of room, there is ample space between the door trim and the door. I would not worry about that...

thanks for quick response and information. i'm trying to decide on whether to go with 1/16" mlv or 1/8" mlv, sandwiched between two layers of either 1/16" or 1/8" sponge foam. the 1/16" mlv weighs in at 0.5#/ft2 while the 1/8" mlv is 1#/ft2; the foam weighs ~ one-two ounces/ft2 for the 1/16" and 1/8" stuff respectively. the foams compress down ~ 50% under moderate force but the mlv doesn't compress and needs to be as "un-restrained" (aka, loosey-goosey) as possible. since you were able to get in the .080" cld, I figured that I could probably work in 1/16" foam around 1/16" mlv but if I could fit in the 1/8" mlv, it'll yield better results. if I go all 1/16" stuff, the total thickness would be ~ .125" (about 50% more than you got in), going with all 1/8" stuff would be ~ .250" (more than 3-times what you got in), and 1/8" mlv with 1/16" foam would be ~ .187" (just more than double what you got in). nothing is available locally so it has a time lag and i'm getting a little ocd about it. the safest play would be go all 1/16" stuff but I want to get the maximum results possible since I only want to play with this once. thanks for the good info
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post #21 of 25 Old 04-19-2019, 04:12 PM
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Thanks for this great post Assad. I'm going to be doing this myself sometime in May. I was just wondering if you're able to help me out with answering a few small questions please?

Did you find it difficult to put back the door handle and lock cables? Or is if straight forward to remove and put back?

As well, do you know if there are seperate connections to the ambient lighting on the door or is it incorporated into the window switch? I just dont want to damage it when pulling off the panel.

As well, do I have to be careful when inserting the mat on the inside metal? I'm worried that it might interfere with the window operation. Anything I should know?

Finally, did you have any issues reinstalling the panel using 80ml sound deadened? I noticed on your driver side door you covered the clip holes and just poked a hole onto it but on the passenger side you cut out around it?

Sorry for all the questions. You just seem to have done an awesome job from the pictures.

If anyone else has experience, please let me know.

Thanks in advance.
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post #22 of 25 Old 04-20-2019, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Hi @vortex,


Putting back the cables and door handles is straight forward, I do not think you will have any issues there


No, it will interfere with the window opening at all


You should cut the mat around the door clip instead of just putting a hole, it make it easier to put the door panel back.


Also, make sure you have some extra clips, just incase you break or loose one:




-------------------------

Concerning the ambient light on the door panel, it wasn't easy at all, that's why I did not document it here or took any pictures.


The main issue:
I could not find +12V inside the door panel where you can tap to power the LED. The lights on the windows UP/DOWN switches are +5V, that's why I could not tap into them. So I had to route +12V, and +ILLUM signals from inside the car by going through the rubber boot connecting the door to the car chassis. There is a big connector on that rubber boot, so you have to be very careful not to break any existing wires when fishing the wires to power the LEDs from the inside of the car. Not an easy task, and takes lots of time to fish those wires (+12V and ILLUM) through.

The +ILLUM signal powers all the LED, because they only come on when the headlights come on.
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2015 Nissan Murano SV ( Custom MODS )
- Illuminated kick plate (non OEM added)
- RGB Foot well lightning (multiple colors)
- RGB compartment light (follows foot well lighning and color)
- LED DTRL on fog frame
- Cup Holder LED lightning
- Android head unit
- Custom leather seat cover (red accent)
- Custom floor mat
- superbright LED Dom light
- SGNL superbright 55W 6000K headlight
- Kenwood powered 150W subwoofer
- Kenwood 600W amp
-LED turn signal
-Accent LED lightning
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post #23 of 25 Old 04-20-2019, 01:40 PM
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Thanks for your help Assad. I really appreciate it.

I ended up getting 72sq feet of the sound deadener.

2 packs of 36sqft. 80ml thickness.

I am planning on doing all 4 doors. Both the inside sheet metal and the stamped metal behind the door panel.

I also plan to do some of the hatch. I don't want to go too crazy on that due to not wanting to weigh it down too much for the motors.

I also plan to throw some under the spare tire area where the subwoofer is.

If I have any left over then I might end up putting some under the hood behind that foam padding that's attached to it. Just to prevent the engine vibration going through the hood. Anything left over after that is getting stuck onto my in home furnace ducts.
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post #24 of 25 Old 04-20-2019, 05:56 PM
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Do you guys know if I have to remove blindspot monitor on the door before I can remove the door trim? If so, does anyone know how to remove it?
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post #25 of 25 Old 04-20-2019, 07:36 PM
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Do you guys know if I have to remove blindspot monitor on the door before I can remove the door trim? If so, does anyone know how to remove it?
No, but it does make it difficult getting it back on. I had to use a plastic tool to guide the rubber back in place correctly without distorting in that area.


Have a good day.

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