Draw-Tite Hitch Install - W/ Pics - Page 5 - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #61 of 70 Old 09-13-2006, 11:07 AM
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I used a UHAUL hitch on both my 2004 & 2006, managed to get in without lowering the exhaust like directions call for, took 20 minutes to install.

2006 SL AWD SILVER
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post #62 of 70 Old 05-04-2007, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ToddEichel
Now you need to remove a bracket on the cross member just behind the rear differential, two bolts, both 12mm again. No problem.
I just installed a Valley hitch and the instructions to lower the exhaust were as shown in this thread except the bracket on the crossmember wasn't removed, just loosened enough to allow the hitch to slide over the exhaust pipes. Keeping this bracket attached keeps the muffler off the ground so you dont need to support the muffler.

2005 Murano SE AWD
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post #63 of 70 Old 11-24-2007, 06:55 PM
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Wiring Harness

Good job on posting pics and instructions on hitch! Can you please confirm that the receiver is flush with bumper and does not extend beyond the bumper when viewed from side or top...I want to avoid banging my shin. I've done a little research and contacted the local Nissan shop who wanted to sell a hitch, support bar and modified bumper for $500ish...your hitch looks great and under $200 sounds good! I am only planning on hauling a motorcycle at most.
Do you mind sharing your experience with the wiring harness? The local dealer sells the genuine Nissan harness for $99 which seems competitive to other online pricing for that companies recommendation or OEM harness....those prices have ranged from $80 to $129. Thanks! David

David in Kathleen GA
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post #64 of 70 Old 11-24-2007, 08:04 PM
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I would recommend the OEM wiring. It comes complete with fusing and regulator. The receiver does sit in from the bumper and as long as you don't have the ball on the hitch; you;ll be fine. I went with a Curt hitch made for the MO. Paid $75 for it and it came with all the bolts needed for mounting.
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'03 Silver SL AWD w/Sunroof - SOLD
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Curt Hitch
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'07 Volvo XC90 V8 AWD
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post #65 of 70 Old 03-20-2008, 08:31 PM
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Installed an aftermarket hitch with this threads help - thanks again.

One problem - rust - midwest hitch looking bad type rust.

Has anyone sanded down a hitch install and repainted it? A friend of mine did it on his 4Runner and it looked great - I forgot to ask him what paint he used.

Any help is appreciated.
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post #66 of 70 Old 05-06-2008, 10:44 PM
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I installed mine this weekend, went pretty smooth with the help of everyone here, many thanks...

one issue we ran into was getting the frame bolts started. its an 04 and lots of MN winters really did a number on the frame threads. Had to get a tap to clean out the threads. Wasn't easy to find. for reference, the tap size is M12 x 1.25 40 . ACE hardware is the only place we can find it. As the MO's get older im sure we won't be the last to have this problem.

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post #67 of 70 Old 08-27-2012, 10:13 AM
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Probs installing hitch

Quote:
Originally Posted by MNMurray View Post
I installed mine this weekend, went pretty smooth with the help of everyone here, many thanks...

one issue we ran into was getting the frame bolts started. its an 04 and lots of MN winters really did a number on the frame threads. Had to get a tap to clean out the threads. Wasn't easy to find. for reference, the tap size is M12 x 1.25 40 . ACE hardware is the only place we can find it. As the MO's get older im sure we won't be the last to have this problem.
Looks like this is the problem I am facing. After lowering the exhaust, removing the driver's side towing bracket and securing the hitch to the driver's side mounting holes, I couldn't get the bolts more than a few mm's into the mounting holes on the passenger side. Those holes had some surface rust that no amount of WD40 could help loosen up. The tap that is mentioned above, can I use that with a regular power drill or do I need to take it somewhere with a pneumatic drill?
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post #68 of 70 Old 08-27-2012, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steel Panther View Post
Looks like this is the problem I am facing. After lowering the exhaust, removing the driver's side towing bracket and securing the hitch to the driver's side mounting holes, I couldn't get the bolts more than a few mm's into the mounting holes on the passenger side. Those holes had some surface rust that no amount of WD40 could help loosen up. The tap that is mentioned above, can I use that with a regular power drill or do I need to take it somewhere with a pneumatic drill?
If you are just chasing the threads, then you would not want to use any power tools. A simple, manual T-handle should suffice.

-njjoe

2005 SL AWD, Platinum (Retired)
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-OEM HID conversion & HID fogs
-OEM iPod interface
-Upgraded (non-Bose) speakers - Pioneer TS-A1702C & TS-G1643R
-Muth signal mirrors
-Valley Industries hitch and wiring harness
-Aluminum fuel tank shields
-Air Helper Springs

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post #69 of 70 Old 08-27-2012, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njjoe View Post
If you are just chasing the threads, then you would not want to use any power tools. A simple, manual T-handle should suffice.

-njjoe
So the M12 tap, plus a manual drill? What about a drill-mounted wire brush, would that be effective in removing surface rust inside the hole?

Thanks
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post #70 of 70 Old 09-24-2012, 03:46 PM
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Hitch finally installed

So I finally took my hitch to a local u-haul and they installed the hitch using a compact wrench to torque the bolts into the 2 holes on the passenger side that had surface rust. They also had to pry the bar in place to fit all bolt holes as they claimed it was slightly bent from the supplier. Charged me $70 for the install, which was pricey but since I wasn't able to do it, I guess I can't complain. Anyway, it fits and looks good on the car, now it's ready to tow my bikes!
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