Nissan locking lug nut key broke - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #1 of 20 Old 12-21-2014, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
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Nissan locking lug nut key broke

Hey All,
My Nissan locking lug nut key broke yesterday when swapping over to my winter tires. The key broke off inside the lock lug nut...I had two winter tires on the right and two summer tires on the left
Because the key part broke off in the lug nut, I couldn't even use a "universal" key that some of the tire installers have....told me I had to go to dealer ...grrrrr!
Anyway, dealer did the job for FREE and gave me anew set of lug nuts ( non locking). It took them an hour to drill out and extract the wheel lock without damaging the stud...a few chips to rim, but touch up,paint will cover that.

Anyway, just a heads up for others who may have locking lug nuts....the key may break and leave stranded sometime... I live in suburbia and park in garages, so not that worried about rim thieves...plus, always a PITA to use the key to change tires

Thought I would share the experience..especially since it was good dealer story!

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post #2 of 20 Old 12-21-2014, 06:02 PM
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Rule #1 and that's printed on the owner's card that comes with the locking lug nuts made by McGard: always tighten locking lug nuts last and always remove them first. Of course don't over torque and make sure threads are clean, no rust or else use a wire brush. Not too many people do this including shops! The locking nuts are not as strong as the regular ones due to their design.


I've read on another forum (Subaru I believe) years ago that a twelve point deep socket could be hammered in then the nut could be removed with a ratchet or other tool. I don't remember the exact size perhaps 17MM? This could damage the socket and the lock but hey, no pain no gain!


I'm surprised your dealer gave you this freebie unless they're the one to blame for the problem in the first place and they felt guilty...How many times I've seen mechanics not necessarily at dealers, tightening the nuts in a circular motion with an impact gun, this is a no-no! Tightening in a criss cross fashion with an impact adjusted at half the recommended torque would be acceptable, then hand tightening with a torque wrench is best. Or else tighten everything by hand like I do as my impact has no torque limit adjustment...jut variable speed so I only use it to remove the nuts. Hope this helps you and a bunch of others for next time!

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post #3 of 20 Old 12-21-2014, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't think of using a 17mm socket - a thin wall deep socket just might fit! Anyway, I do all my own tire rotations and always re-torque by hand if car visits shop for wheels off repair. I started doing this 15 years ago when dealer over tighten lug nuts with impact wrench by 40-50 lbs! Warped two sets,of front rotors..they replace both under warranty, but two sets before 30k? It was clear they didn't care, but it was a pain going back to the dealer fix their misstakes. Next set of rotors last me 70k until I sold car with nary a vibration.

Anyway, Murano rotors seem a little more robust, but I still torque all by hand to 85-90 lbs.

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post #4 of 20 Old 12-22-2014, 12:11 AM
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I only torque by hand - and never use anything but hand tools on the locking lug nuts. I can remove the other nuts with an impact wrench, but coming off is a different deal than going on.

In an emergency, you can get a locking lug nut off by hammering a slightly smaller deep well socket over the damaged nut so that it's solidly jammed on the nut's shoulders, then turning the socket off. You can drive a car for a ways with a missing lug nut if you need to.

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post #5 of 20 Old 12-22-2014, 05:24 AM
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Using a thin wall socket allows for the tight clearance between the aluminium wheel and the lug nut, thanks for reminding me as I forgot about that detail.


There is a fear among a lot of people about wheels falling off the car if not super tight. In theory, the relatively short wrench that comes with the emergency jack provides the approximate recommended torque if used by an average person like me...But if the driver is a person with limited physical force he or she will generally call for help, call AAA, etc.; on the other hand, if the driver is a strong & muscular person, over torqueing is quite possible (not my case!). That's why in the owner's manual it says to have the torque rechecked ASAP, makes sense.


Also never use oil, grease, locktite, graphite, etc. to the threads as the added lubrication will provide much higher torque values than on dry threads !!! I repeat what I've said: the threads must be clean, rust free and in good condition, if not the lug nut(s) and/or lug(s) should be replaced to obtain proper torque values. Thank God today most cars have acorn type capped-closed nuts so rust is generally not a problem. I never have a problem removing the nuts on any car I've installed wheels on, whether it's my own, my GF's or a friend's; can't say the same when one of the cars comes back from the shop with say new tires or after maintenance/inspection. I can sit for a while with my impact before some of the nuts decide to come off, not a good sign, probably over torqued by 100-200%. Good luck to all!

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post #6 of 20 Old 12-22-2014, 12:39 PM
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Yup, on the occasion when I have to have a tire shop do a tire change or rotation (I do my own and have two floor jacks, torque and electric impact wrenches, etc.) I specify the torque from the owner's manual and do my best to watch the wheels be re-installed on the car. I wouldn't hesitate to run for the manager if I saw my wheels being installed without a torque-measuring device.

I haven't found it necessary to use thin-wall sockets on my Murano lugs - a standard deep well impact socket works fine.

Many shops now have "torque sticks" which release automatically when their torque set point is reached.

Example: 1/2In Drive Torque Limiting Extension Bar Set 10Pc

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post #7 of 20 Old 12-22-2014, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilgrim View Post

I haven't found it necessary to use thin-wall sockets on my Murano lugs - a standard deep well impact socket works fine.

I meant using a thin wall socket and hammer it in on the locking lug nut. I've also used a standard deep socket a few weeks ago when I installed my Blizzaks. Keep on truckin!

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post #8 of 20 Old 12-22-2014, 09:00 PM
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OK, that makes perfect sense. Thanks for explaining!

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post #9 of 20 Old 12-23-2014, 06:40 AM
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Pilgrim, I think I've read years ago on a Subaru forum that a thin wall socket was easier to hammer in over the locking lug nut than a standard or thick wall version but not 100% sure.


Driving with a missing lug nut brings back bad memories; I've done it before on my ex '01 Elantra which had very soft wheel studs and one broke off when I installed the winter tires a few months later because the !"/$% dealer had over torqued the lug nuts while performing a free inspection (so much for that). I had to order the friggin stud (I actually bought a couple more) then I removed the caliper and the mounting bracket and drove the broken stud with a punch & a hammer. Not too hard to do as there was not much rust on the various components.


On a 3 lug Renault, gee whiz, I would not drive too far or too fast...Also I know a lot of people with a screw loose or two that still drive!!! Safe driving.

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post #10 of 20 Old 12-23-2014, 11:06 AM
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Yes, driving with one fewer lug stud (or bolt, if you have an Audi or VW) isn't a long-term solution, but it will get you off the side of the road or salvage an afternoon's work in the driveway. Not the preferred solution if you're in the middle of a 500-mile drive, but at least it can get you to a shop or store.

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post #11 of 20 Old 12-24-2014, 06:29 AM
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I would not go racing either with a missing lug nut (Indianapolis 500)!!!

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post #12 of 20 Old 12-24-2014, 07:46 AM
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Locking lug nuts are such a scam. People who steal rims come prepared with jacks, blocks to drop the car on, electric impacts and lots of cheap sockets that they hammer over locking nuts to remove them just as quickly as a regular lug nut. This isn't a case of, "If mine are just a little harder to steal than the other guys they'll leave mine alone". It's a case of if your rims are the ones they want and they're already showing up with all the stuff you need to steal 4 rims the locking lug nuts aren't going to stop them.
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post #13 of 20 Old 12-24-2014, 11:48 AM
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^^^ This. :-)

Can I have a show of hands of how many have had their factory alloy wheels stolen or even attempted to be stolen in the past 10 years?
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post #14 of 20 Old 12-24-2014, 02:53 PM
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I know about professional thieves and they even operate at night on dealer lots but did not want to mention it here, too late you spilled the beans! The idea is to discourage the amateurs if your car is parked outside overnight...


Just like if you own a high end Trek or Specialized all carbon road bike just to name these two, the best lock will not resist the best thieves but "beginners" will look somewhere else for the easy prey! Thieves are lazy by nature except for the pros that's why I never give them a chance and always lock my car (and my house )even for 30 secs but that's me. I have an old Rocky Mountain dark grey touring bike (who wants such a dull thing) but I lock it when out of sight in a restaurant with my cycling group. Xmas eve, hum nice time to steel wheels and tires when everyone is eating and drinking, Ho!Ho!Ho!

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post #15 of 20 Old 12-26-2014, 07:42 AM
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There's no such thing as an "amateur" rim thief. It's a laughable fallacy brought to you by the same people trying to sell you wheel locks. If you've gone through the planning to have jacks, various sockets, impact wrenches and a means to quickly load up and leave with the rims you're already preparing enough that you will have a few thin wall sockets to pound onto wheel locks.

You can't compare that to an amateur bike thief who simply has to walk up, hop on a bike, and ride away. Bike theft is a crime of opportunity because it requires absolutely no preparation. Just a bored ****head who's tired of walking and sees a bike sitting there and will steal the $100 unlocked one before the $1000 locked one because he didn't put much planning into this. It's why the logic of "just making mine harder to steal than the other guy's" makes sense in this case.

You're far more likely to get stranded because your wheel lock failed with a flat tire or lost key than because someone stole your rims. I'll continue running lockless and on the minute chance I ever have a set of rims stolen I'll just call up the insurance company and get a nice new set of rims and tires.
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