Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Montreal Canada
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Using a thin wall socket allows for the tight clearance between the aluminium wheel and the lug nut, thanks for reminding me as I forgot about that detail.
There is a fear among a lot of people about wheels falling off the car if not super tight. In theory, the relatively short wrench that comes with the emergency jack provides the approximate recommended torque if used by an average person like me...But if the driver is a person with limited physical force he or she will generally call for help, call AAA, etc.; on the other hand, if the driver is a strong & muscular person, over torqueing is quite possible (not my case!). That's why in the owner's manual it says to have the torque rechecked ASAP, makes sense.
Also never use oil, grease, locktite, graphite, etc. to the threads as the added lubrication will provide much higher torque values than on dry threads !!! I repeat what I've said: the threads must be clean, rust free and in good condition, if not the lug nut(s) and/or lug(s) should be replaced to obtain proper torque values. Thank God today most cars have acorn type capped-closed nuts so rust is generally not a problem. I never have a problem removing the nuts on any car I've installed wheels on, whether it's my own, my GF's or a friend's; can't say the same when one of the cars comes back from the shop with say new tires or after maintenance/inspection. I can sit for a while with my impact before some of the nuts decide to come off, not a good sign, probably over torqued by 100-200%. Good luck to all!
Canadian 2017.5 Pearl White SV w/Driver Assistance Package replaced '14 SL Pearl White. Cargo net. Cargo protector (home made with carpet). Nissan black rubber floor mats. SS rear bumper protector. Draw Tite hitch. Blind zone mirrors. Wheel locks. Blizzak DM-V1 245/70/17 w/steelies & wheel covers. Spoiler under front bumper removed. H11 to H9 low beam conversion. Nissan polished SS rear license frame.