1st Gen Murano Wheel Bearing Replacement -- Step-by-step - Page 2 - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #16 of 117 Old 03-28-2011, 02:15 PM
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Got quoted from a few different places. It seems to range from $350-400/bearing replacement (including labor, excluding tax). I live in NJ. I want to take care of this issue ASAP, but I want to do a one thing first:
*make sure I can remove all the necessary parts first--there's no point in buying the part, and realizing I can't remove a bolt bc it's rusted...

I am worried that I will run into an issue of not being able to figure out how something comes out like others have posted or somehow ruining the ABS sensor (since they're so expensive).
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post #17 of 117 Old 03-31-2011, 09:16 AM
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I have been noticing a wobble in the front. Not all the time like a unbalanced tire. Only on occasion. Could that be an indicator for a bad hub bearing(s)? I know I have to replace the lower ball joints. I am wondering if I should do the hubs at the same time, since I will have most of the suspension apart anyway - plus I have 108K miles.

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post #18 of 117 Old 03-31-2011, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by biggun View Post
I have been noticing a wobble in the front. Not all the time like a unbalanced tire. Only on occasion. Could that be an indicator for a bad hub bearing(s)? I know I have to replace the lower ball joints. I am wondering if I should do the hubs at the same time, since I will have most of the suspension apart anyway - plus I have 108K miles.
That's what I have now, the wobble. The wobble could be related to something else in the front end... The sound is really the loudest thing in the world right now. I have 130k... I'm fearful I'll have to replace everything under there soon...
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post #19 of 117 Old 03-31-2011, 12:35 PM
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Occasional wobble is more than likely due to a bad ball joint.

Former owner of 2004 SL AWD
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post #20 of 117 Old 04-04-2011, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lilfleck View Post
Got quoted from a few different places. It seems to range from $350-400/bearing replacement (including labor, excluding tax). I live in NJ. I want to take care of this issue ASAP, but I want to do a one thing first:
*make sure I can remove all the necessary parts first--there's no point in buying the part, and realizing I can't remove a bolt bc it's rusted...

I am worried that I will run into an issue of not being able to figure out how something comes out like others have posted or somehow ruining the ABS sensor (since they're so expensive).
I JUST came here to post about my experience in replacing the hub/bearing assembly. It took me only 2 hours in my driveway with a minimal amount of tools. FYI I have an 04 with 55k miles but I live in a relatively dry area so there wasn't too much corrosion.

First off I ordered the part from AutoPartsWarehouse. I actually ordered a generic hub/bearing that cost only $99! Unfortunately it looks like it's no longer on the site, so the closest is the Timken brand one that's received plenty of good reviews. Came in about a week and it's was ready to be put on the car (ie already lubed up).

I'll do my own step by step that will hopefully help you out.

1. Go to auto store and buy/rent the following (you might have some of this stuff, but I needed them):
a. 32mm axle nut socket (I tried to rent but they were all out so I bought it for ~$15)
b. Replacement cotter pins (I didn't know what size so I just bought a pack that had assorted sizes ~$5)
c. CRC/Freeze out or any sort of rust/corrosion loosener. There is a whole shelf of them, I chose the cheapest. ~$4

2. Other tools you will need: A mechanics set with all of your socket sizes. The sensor is a 10mm, the brake calipers are 17mm I believe, and the 4 bolts for the bearing are something else smaller than the 17mm. Make sure you have some long bolts and an extender. You'll also need some sort of hammer, I used 2lb rubber mallet/hammer type thing, as well as a regular metal claw hammer.

3. Loosen up lug nuts, jack up car, and remove wheel. Once complete, I sprayed all visible bolts with that penetrating liquid. I waited just a couple minutes, sprayed a bit more, the went on to the following step. (2 bolts brake caliper, 4 bolts hub assembly, 1 bolt wheel sensor, and the axle nut)

4. Take the two bolts off from behind and remove the brake caliper from the rotor. I used a small bucket and sat the caliper on top of that. You don't want to let it dangle as it won't reach the ground. Push it as far as you can to the inside of the car to give you room.

5. At this point, nothing is actually holding the brake rotor on the wheel hub assembly. Some light pounding with my rubber hammer got it loose and I slid it right off.

6. Remove cotter pin with a pair of pliers.

7. Remove axle nut. It's nice to have a breaker bar on top of your ratchet to give you more leverage.

8. Remove the ABS wheel sensor from the back of the hub. If you look behind, you'll see the small wire and the 10mm nut. Luckily mine slid right out after removing the bolt. Hopefully you don't run into the corrosion issues like others.

9. Remove the 4 bolts holding the assembly in place. Even with the long extension sockets, I had to turn the wheels left and right to be able to access the top nuts because teh CV boots get in the way. No biggie though.

10. At this point there is nothing hold the assembly in place. You do have to pull it out towards you though as it's teeth are still locked into the axle. It took me about 25 minutes to finally get it out. The techniques I used were banging it from all sides with the rubber hammer. The one that worked the best is hitting it from behind on the right side (passenger side) or left side (driver side). Whatever side is closer to the front of the car because the dust shield on that side isn't in the way and there seems to be more room to swing a hammer. You do bang up the dust shield a bit but don't worry about it. Eventually you'll see it start to separate from the dust shield and just keep pounding away. Like someone else said, you won't be reusing the hub so just go for broke. I hit it so hard one of the lug bolts actually came out. SEriously, I can't stress enough, just keep pounding it, you're breaking all the corrosion and dirt away. I doubt you'll be able to break anything, except the dust shield maybe. You can also try pounding in sideways in a circle, it won't actually spin though because the car is in park, but it should loosen it up that way as well.

11. Once it's out, just slide the new part right back in it's place, line up the holes and put everything back in the order you took it out. Don't forget to put the brake rotor back on I almost forgot. I didn't bother using a torque wrench and everything seems to be fine.

The minute I started driving it was SOOOOOO much more quiet. I'd been driving for about 2 months with that horrible vibration from the front and it's soo smooth now. My car feels brand new. I saved over $200 doing it myself and I highly recommend everyone do it. Let me know if you have any questions.
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post #21 of 117 Old 04-04-2011, 04:51 PM
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Awesome write up, thanks! How many miles do you have on your MO? I have 130k, I'm really worried about that sensor. I'm thinking about trying to remove the wheel & brake assembly to see if I can get the sensor off before ordering the part...
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post #22 of 117 Old 04-04-2011, 05:03 PM
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I edited my post to add that information. It's an '04 with 55k miles, not nearly as bad as you. If you can jack up your car high enough and turn your wheels I bet you can access the sensor bolt without having to take everything off. Probably just the wheel if anything. It's on the opposite side as teh brake caliper.
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post #23 of 117 Old 04-04-2011, 09:45 PM
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Are the bolts behind the hub hex nuts or allen holes?

How long did it take for the part to deliver?
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post #24 of 117 Old 04-05-2011, 04:02 PM
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The four bolts are regular hex nuts. The part came in about 6 days but I chose the slowest shipping to save some money.
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post #25 of 117 Old 04-09-2011, 12:00 AM
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Thought I'd weigh in on the ABS sensor issue as I've an 03 Murano in upper New York and corrosion is an issue. I'm doing struts, but still had to get the sensor and wiring harness out of the way. Consider the following....

1. As a penetrating oil use PB Blaster. I work with diesel bus mechanics and they swear by it, it does work.

2. Use a heat gun to carefully warm the hub in the area of the sensor. You can use a propane torch but if you do be careful. Don't get carried away. Warming the area will expand the hub metal slightly and help the PB Blaster get into the threads. You can also gently tap the hub near the sensor with a ball peen hammer.

3. Clean the 10mm head on that sensor bolt and gently try turning it left. Then right, then left again. You're trying to rock the bolt and get it moving. Don't get crazy with the ratchet....be gentle. Consider using a 1/4 inch drive rachet.

4. Keep working at it and eventually, with patience you will get the bolts out intact. Once the bolts are out work the sensor gently back and forth until you can extract it.

5. before you reinstall the sensors apply "Never Seize" to the sensor, the retaining bolt and the hub where the sensor lives. If you ever need to remove the sensor in the future the "Never Seize" will make the job easy.

Good luck,

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post #26 of 117 Old 04-11-2011, 09:47 AM
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Hey guys, I wanted to update the thread on what I accomplished this past weekend. So I wasn't sure if I would be able to remove the ABS sensor to replace the part myself, so I decided to try to take it apart before ordering the $140 part.

I followed everyone's instructions/advice in here, and after some patience and a lot of wiggling and spraying, I was able to get the ABS sensor out. I have 130k on my car and live in NJ where the winters are harsh w/ plenty of salt.

I was able to get out all four bolts without an issue behind the hub, and the brake bolts came out nicely as well. The ABS sensor had a little bit of rust around it, but nothing too bad. The same w/ the bolts behind the hub. I was really pleased.

Going into more detail/advice for anyone trying to take it out--this sensor IS keyed so don't turn left and right too much. You want to firstly, spray, spray, spray! I used WD-40 which worked like a charm. I kept soaking the bolt w/ WD-40 and it came out relatively nicely. The threads weren't rusted, it was the tip and the top part of it (where the plastic is on the sensor) that were rusted).

After the bolt was out, you'd think the sensor should pop out--NOPE! That was definitely not the case here, it took a ton of spraying and a ton of wiggling w/ pliers to get it out. I was VERY gentle with the sensor and wiggling since the sensor is made of plastic. You need to grip the top and bottom of the frame and wiggle gently while pulling. The plastic will get nicked a little bit here and there from the pliers, but it takes a lot of careful patience to ensure you don't ruin the sensor. I spent about 25 minutes wiggling and spraying with no luck... I sprayed some more, went to lunch, came back, sprayed some more, and wiggled, got it out after another 25 minutes of wiggling. So yes, patience is required, but very rewarding.

The rest was pretty straight forward. I ordered the part last night from partstrain.com and hoping it gets here by Friday.
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post #27 of 117 Old 04-16-2011, 11:12 PM
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Just finished replacing the wheel hub. I probably made every mistake possible so I can tell you guys what to look out for.
Since I got the sensor out last week taking it apart this weekend was no problem. Taking off the wheel hub was a 25 minute process of beating it up with a rubber mallet. It eventually popped off. I was hitting the hub from all sides.

Mistakes to watch out for:
1) make sure you put the brake dust shield on the right way! I put it on backwards and had assembled the whole hub already when I realized this.
2) make sure you put the wheel hub on correctly. Afrter I corrected the first mistake I made this one ... it was upside down and the abs sensor didn't fit because the slot was on the opposite side of the wheel hub....
3) be patient!

Good luck everyone, I hope this helps.
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post #28 of 117 Old 04-25-2011, 02:23 PM
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No joy in NC

After putting up with drivetrain noise for the last couple of years on our '05 SL AWD, I did both front bearings/hubs today. Two years ago, while still under extended warranty, the whine started, and the dealer insisted it was the tires. The tires were finally replaced last week, and lo and behold the noise remained. Of course we're now at 108k miles, and the extended warranty has expired.

Digging around online, I figured it was likely the bearings. Got some good quality Timken bearings, and installation was a breeze - no corrosion problems, so everything came apart easily, including the ABS sensor.

Unfortunately, the eagerly awaited post-replacement test drive showed the whine is still there. It has changed a bit - I would say it is a pure whine now, whereas before it had some 'crunchy' component to it. I think the bearings did need replacement, bit I'm now at a loss as to what the issue is.

The dealer is useless - they say the din is perfectly normal, no problem, yada yada yada. My usual independent garage says they don't want to get into trying to diagnose CVT drivetrain problems, and point me to the dealer.

After having just put $1k into it (tires/bearing/brakes), I'd like to keep it for a whole longer, with new ones running $35k and up. We won't get squat for it in a trade, and I don't want to hand the problems to some poor sod in a private sale.

What to do?

P.S. I should have described the whine. It becomes loud above 40 mph, and is proportional to speed, not rpm. It is unchanged if the car is put in neutral and coasts. Does not seem to vary in turns. Seems to be centered in the middle-front (I figured that was because both bearings were toast, but now I'm wondering about xfer case and xmission...).
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post #29 of 117 Old 05-11-2011, 11:49 PM
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Wheel bearing grind

'03 AWD SL
Don't mean to belabor the point, but I had that crunchy, whining noise for a year or so, only when turning the wheel to the left, on highways around turns, and it did not take a lot of turn to get it to start. My passenger front WB was toast, no doubt about it. You could tell the difference turning the new (Timken unit) vs the old by hand. The noise would not be there while going straight or turning right, but turning left sounded like the wheel was coming off. I bought my '03 MO new back in early '04. I had the same whining issues under warranty, and eventually took it back enough times (and finally took the service manager for a test drive) that they started listening. I even had them drive two other new MO's on the lot, with the statement if they made the same noise, I would go away, and never come back. One made no noise at all, and the other was WORSE! I think there was a quality issue with these hub assys, that was kept hush-hush. Be persistent, and keep good records. Get EVERYTHING in writing. The car had between 18-20K on it when this all started. Under warranty, they replaced the CVT, and finally the front diff, which of course included the wheel bearings.
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post #30 of 117 Old 05-12-2011, 08:00 AM
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Update

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Originally Posted by spiked View Post
What to do?

P.S. I should have described the whine. It becomes loud above 40 mph, and is proportional to speed, not rpm. It is unchanged if the car is put in neutral and coasts. Does not seem to vary in turns. Seems to be centered in the middle-front (I figured that was because both bearings were toast, but now I'm wondering about xfer case and xmission...).
Update on this - Problem turned out to be the transfer case, which was nearly dry. It hadn't leaked, the fluid had just deteriorated into black goo. My bad as I thought I had this fluid changed at 60k, but don't see it in my records. Got as much goo out as I could, and refilled the case. Whine is much reduced now. Plan to change the fluid again in a few weeks, hoping the rest of the goo has dissolved.

So when you get a centered, high pitch whine as described above, check the transfer case fluid level! It only holds about a cup of fluid, and is apparently under a lot of stress, so this needs to be checked regularly (I would suggest every 30k rather than the recommended 60k).
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