2006 AWD left front CV axle help - Page 2 - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #16 of 24 Old 11-23-2011, 06:59 AM
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Hi, my cv boot is torn. It's really dry so I would have to replace the axle. I purchased an axle. When the old axle comes out. Why would it leak there is a female end to it?
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post #17 of 24 Old 02-20-2017, 12:37 AM
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Anyone have a P/N for the left axle seal?
After market like Timken or something, or Nissan if it's the only option.
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post #18 of 24 Old 02-20-2017, 01:20 AM
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I don't remember the part number but you should be able to call Nissan and pick one up for cheap. I believe I paid around $12 for mine and used a $0.98 pvc piece from Home Depot to punch it in nice and flush.... That's if you are in the US of coarse.
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post #19 of 24 Old 03-10-2017, 08:57 AM
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The Passenger side CV Axle is a two part axle. Do this one way you won't have fluid cross contamination. Do it the other way you will. Remove the brake caliber and tie it up and out of the way with bungie cords, sting or rope. Remove the lower ball joint as you would do on the drivers side. Remove the axle nut. Tap axle through wheel hub as you swing the hub assembly out of the way enough to get the axle out. Here's where it will determine if your going to have the cross contamination of tranny and transfer case fluids or not. Past the second axle boot you will see three 10mm bolts that appear to be holding the axel shaft from coming out. DO NOT REMOVE THOSE unless you are actually replacing the inner axel too. (99% sure you will not be replacing this. almost all will be actually replacing with a half shaft. keep reading) The forementioned three 10mm bolt hold the inner shaft in the CVT and transfer case. Remove them and the entire axle and inner axle will easily come out AND CROSS CONTAMINATION OF FLUIDS WILL HAPPEN. To remove just the half shaft you just need to pry the end of the shaft with a pry bar or large screw driver apart from the inner shaft. It is held together with the same snap ring as the drivers side axel is. It might take a small amount of force to separate the two but you can easily do it. You will be heavily tempted to take the three 10mm bolts out to remove the axle and trust me it will basically all just fall out by it's self too if you do. KEEP IN MIND IF YOU DO REMOVE THE 10MM BOLTS you will have cross contamination of both transfer case and CVT fluids. You will have to drain the transfer case completely and refill with fresh 80 W90 gear oil and will need to add CVT fluid to proper level when finished. PLUS you most likely will need to replace the oil seal now as well because it is now exposed and disturbed. I recently learned this myself by removing the three 10mm bolts. The job was very much easier until I had to replace the oil seal that only NISSAN carried for $35. Then the transfer case oil refill fiasco was lovely! Then I did a CVT fluid drain and fill that you need to win the lottery in order to be able to afford!


So if anyone reads this looking for information on passenger side CV Axle replacement. Your much better off not to remove the three 10mm bolt past the second cv boot. Separate the shaft there just like removing the drivers side axle. You will thank me later if you follow this advise.
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post #20 of 24 Old 03-12-2017, 01:56 AM
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Thanks for the advice on the 3 bolts, mine is not leaking on the passenger side and the seal was replaced in 2012, the driver's side was replaced 3 months ago and was still leaking and I replaced it again.
I then replaced the CVT fluid and I drained the TC but I used a glass measuring cup to measure the amount of oil that was in it and only got 100ml and it took 310ml to fill it up, that is bad news.
I would really like to see how the TC seal on the CVT side looks like because I'm pretty sure that is where it is leaking from.
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post #21 of 24 Old 04-01-2017, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Jass Koda View Post
The Passenger side CV Axle is a two part axle. Do this one way you won't have fluid cross contamination. Do it the other way you will. Remove the brake caliber and tie it up and out of the way with bungie cords, sting or rope. Remove the lower ball joint as you would do on the drivers side. Remove the axle nut. Tap axle through wheel hub as you swing the hub assembly out of the way enough to get the axle out. Here's where it will determine if your going to have the cross contamination of tranny and transfer case fluids or not. Past the second axle boot you will see three 10mm bolts that appear to be holding the axel shaft from coming out. DO NOT REMOVE THOSE unless you are actually replacing the inner axel too. (99% sure you will not be replacing this. almost all will be actually replacing with a half shaft. keep reading) The forementioned three 10mm bolt hold the inner shaft in the CVT and transfer case. Remove them and the entire axle and inner axle will easily come out AND CROSS CONTAMINATION OF FLUIDS WILL HAPPEN. To remove just the half shaft you just need to pry the end of the shaft with a pry bar or large screw driver apart from the inner shaft. It is held together with the same snap ring as the drivers side axel is. It might take a small amount of force to separate the two but you can easily do it. You will be heavily tempted to take the three 10mm bolts out to remove the axle and trust me it will basically all just fall out by it's self too if you do. KEEP IN MIND IF YOU DO REMOVE THE 10MM BOLTS you will have cross contamination of both transfer case and CVT fluids. You will have to drain the transfer case completely and refill with fresh 80 W90 gear oil and will need to add CVT fluid to proper level when finished. PLUS you most likely will need to replace the oil seal now as well because it is now exposed and disturbed. I recently learned this myself by removing the three 10mm bolts. The job was very much easier until I had to replace the oil seal that only NISSAN carried for $35. Then the transfer case oil refill fiasco was lovely! Then I did a CVT fluid drain and fill that you need to win the lottery in order to be able to afford!


So if anyone reads this looking for information on passenger side CV Axle replacement. Your much better off not to remove the three 10mm bolt past the second cv boot. Separate the shaft there just like removing the drivers side axle. You will thank me later if you follow this advise.
what if the support bearing its bad???
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post #22 of 24 Old 04-25-2019, 05:36 PM
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2004 Murano AWD drivers side axle seized in hub


Original goal was to replace hub/bearing... but of course need the axle out. Currently loosened the 4 bolts that is holding the hub (but have not removed them totally) with the intent of using a puller to push axle out. So using the puller as shown has neither separated the hub nor drove to axle out. Next attempt is use a sledge hammer on the axle (with the axle nut on). I have removed the tie rod end just in case I may damage the steering rack.
I may have to replace the lower ball joint since there is some play in it already.


Initially, driving over 60Kms/hr (40 miles/hr) noise and vibration would occur on front driver's side... thus need for new hub.


Can't get axle out... any suggestions?


If the sledge hammer doesn't work, I am going to take the half shaft out with the steering knuckle along with the hub and bring it to a shop... may use a bearing press? Heat it with a torch? Don't know.
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post #23 of 24 Old 04-26-2019, 12:49 AM
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Assuming the brake caliper and abs sensor has been safely removed and hanging above. Remove the 2 bolts holding the knuckle to the struts. Give the end of the axle a few taps with a hammer/wood (axle nut flushed at end of axle to avoid mushrooming the axle) -- that should loosen it and then let the knuckle drop outwards - towards you. When you remove the hub assembly mounting bolts, you only need to give it a few taps or pry it out. Should be fairly easy for it to come off. Good luck.

Spray lots of lubricating fluid(wd-40) in the hub/axle and let it sit for a few minutes.
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post #24 of 24 Old 04-26-2019, 05:56 PM
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