I just replace the left axle seal of my MO today. It was the second part of the repair job of replacing the left and right lower control arms.
Since the ball joint is out already I removed the screw of the steering outer rod and pop that out by hitting the knuckle where the rod sits. A few mild hits with a 3 lb sledge hammer worked.
I am lucky that my wheel hub has hardly any rust in them. Couple hits with a hammer and a piece of wood on the axle it came loose easily.
Pushing away the knuckle to get the axle out of the hub just needs a little force and came out no sweat.
I used a small pry bar to pop out the axle from the cvt. I positioned it on the top left corner of the cv housing. Took 3 pulls and it came off. Fairly easy.
It drained out about 1 quart and 445 ml. of NS2 fluid. I was concerned with the color of the cvt fluid that drained out---it was amber --like motor oil. I would probably do a drain and refill soon or when I do my spark plugs at 105k.
I took my time putting the new seal in. Tried the homemade seal driver I made with a 2 inch pvc pipe with a cap on one end. Only works when the entire seal is riding on the hole. Used it for the final tap in. Turbizzy was right. The best way to ride the seal into the hole is to use your finger and a hammer and do it slowly. Tapping around little by little and across works and don't rush it.
Sitting the axle to the tranny......after some in and out trial making sure its in line with the splines, I hang the middle part of the axle with a string so its almost level to the tranny. Then, with the axle straight, I hit the outer end of the axle with a hammer. It took several mild hits to drive it all the way in. Pulled on the axle cv housing to make sure clip is locked in again.
Then its just a matter of putting everything back. Test drove it and so far no leak. The MO seems to ride better now. Maybe its just a placebo...After all the work.
I had some problem with the new left lower control arm ball joint. It won't slide in as easily as the right one. I had to hammer in hard and wedge an old flat screw driver at the knuckle slit to open up the hole a little. Hammered the bottom of the arm up with a 3 lb sledge and wood finally did the job. Got frustrated there for a while. I guess thats what you get with after market parts. Coulda sworn that ball joint was just a little fatter than it should be. But all is good and installed properly. My MO is happy again!
The last pix of the new seal inside needed a final tap in to flush with the cvt. I used the seal driver I made to do that. I was randomly taking pix and forgetting some..oh well.