Front and Rear OEM brake rotor thickness - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 09-28-2011, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Front and Rear OEM brake rotor thickness

Folks -
Love the input. You people are wonderful. I have searched this forum for all the information I desire but have only found bits and pieces. So, I post, ask these questions, and make my title fit as many tags as humanly possible:

2006 Murano SL AWD without TPMS

My dealer informs me of the need for new brake pads all around and new rotors for sure. I ask if I am down to the wear indicators and they respond "no." I question the rotor replacement for a four disc $700 job with OE "replacement" rotors. Their response is that both rotor and pads will wear. I understand this but I am not an idiot. So the question is what is tolerable. What I desire from this forum is:

1) What is the thickness of a brand new OEM Rotor - Front:
2) What is the thickness of a brand new OEM Rotor - Rear:

This way, this thread will have both measurements in one place. I think I found one response where the rears may be 16 mm.

I can then use my calipers to measure my current rotor thicknesses and reply back for further brake advice.

Thanks folks. Appreciated.

AGE
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post #2 of 16 Old 09-28-2011, 04:15 PM
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Welcome to the forum.

Brake rotors:

Front: 28.0mm (new) - 26.0mm (min)

Rear: 16.0mm (new) - 14.0mm (min)

Unless the pads are so worn that they have grooved the rotors I would forgo changing the rotors. Many (most?) members share that opinion.

-njjoe

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post #3 of 16 Old 09-28-2011, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Joe -

When I get home this evening, I will post the measurements provided by my dealer. I look forward to additional opinions.

AGE
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post #4 of 16 Old 09-28-2011, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well... It's very interesting.

According to my dealer, my 06 Murano with less than 56K miles on it (owned since new by me), driven 90% on highways that run between 50 - 65 mph without any traffic that constitutes "stop and go" has:

Front Rotor: 24.05 mm
Rear Rotor: 8.75 mm

So, NJJOE (and others), what can you share? I drive her like I want to keep her forever and I have a very light foot. I am a bit perplexed. I am having new tires put on her next week and will ask the techs there to measure my rotors and eventually, I will pull the tires myself if I need too.

A confused AGE...
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post #5 of 16 Old 09-29-2011, 02:25 AM
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No offense to the two or three honest Nissan mechanics out there (one is a member here) but I would not trust the measurements you got from your dealer. Get a second opinion - Have the tire guys put a mic to the rotors.

-njjoe

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post #6 of 16 Old 09-29-2011, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again Joe. And if those Nissan Techs want to pipe in, I am all ears.

AGE
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post #7 of 16 Old 09-29-2011, 10:32 AM
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Thanks for starting this thread oldAGE. I used "search" to find your post

I also have an '06 MO (1st owner) that needs rotors (not sure what the thickness was measured at though). Unlike oldAGE, I hit 56K in the first two years I owned it (have about 96K @the moment).
Two mm doesn't sound like much excess material to "turn/cut"? I had my pads replaced last year and was recently told that they still have 75% wear left on them. This seemed odd to me that the rotors would have worn down that much before even half the life of the 2nd set of pads but I guess it makes sense if they start off so close to minimum allowable measurements. I thought maybe the last mechanic turned them too much when I bought the new pads when I first was told it was a critical repair.
I'm sure I will be spending lots of time on this forum. More than likely I have some experiences to contribute when others have questions.

Thanks
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post #8 of 16 Old 09-29-2011, 11:22 AM
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This is the first time I've read the 2MM difference between new and the wear limit. That is indeed pretty minimal...definitely less than most cars I have owned.

I will note that BMW specifies rotor changes at EACH brake pad change on my wife's 1994 325I, but they make it really easy - essentially you just pull one bolt, rotate the caliper upwards to clear, lift off the disc and set a new one in place. I did as instructed because I have learned through a succession of Audi and BMW cars that when the Germans give a direct order in maintenance, you must click your heels, salute, shout "Jawohl" and follow directions.

I have a tire rotation in the next week or two and I'm coming up on pads before long, so i will use calipers on the rotors with interest.

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post #9 of 16 Old 09-30-2011, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Pilgrim and Weber -

Let us know your findings. My tires will be in on Tuesday so I should know more on Tuesday or Wednesday regarding the "interesting" reading by my dealer regarding my rear rotors.

Another note to those interested, I am not a complete nut about performance products etc. I would like to put on decent product so I am thinking about Akebono ProACT pads front/rear and either EBC or CENTRIC Premium Rotor Series...

Any comments?

AGE
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post #10 of 16 Old 09-30-2011, 10:17 AM
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Got a friend that refuses to turn his rotors these days. Says if you cut them twice they're usually down to minimum thickness. He just swaps out pads and moves on. I tend to agree.

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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post #11 of 16 Old 09-30-2011, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldAGE View Post
Pilgram and Webber -

Let us know your findings. My tires will be in on Tuesday so I should know more on Tuesday or Wednesday regarding the "interesting" reading by my dealer regarding my rear rotors.

Another note to those interested, I am not a complete nut about performance products etc. I would like to put on decent product so I am thinking about Akebono ProACT pads front/rear and either EBC or CENTRIC Premium Rotor Series...

Any comments?

AGE
I just recently did my rear brakes and rotors. Used the Akebono ACT905 pads and Centric 120.42078 from RockAuto.

I've used Akebono before on my other cars and they're decent pads for the price. Have also used Porterfield R4S on my other cars but for the price it would probably be overkill for the Murano rears.

The Centric rotors are better than average with what appears to be either powdercoated or high temp painted hat to prevent corrosion. I've noticed that the coating is also on the underside of the hat where the emergency brake pads contact but I haven't noticed any problem with the emergency brakes holding even with the car on an incline.
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post #12 of 16 Old 10-01-2011, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Ray -
Thanks for the insight. Nice to hear a positive review. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

AGE
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post #13 of 16 Old 05-05-2012, 08:02 PM
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min thickness means?

Take front rotor as an example, if current thickness is just slightly below 26.0mm, AND if I have decided not to resurface the rotor, will it be OK to keep using it? In another word, the min thickness is for resurfacing requirement, or it is for proper working with new pads?

I recently put new rotors/pads on my wife's car. Front rotors have a wear thickness of 1.6mm, even smaller than the 2mm below. This makes me wandering maybe the rotor companies are trying to make thinner rotors in order to sell more?

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by njjoe View Post
Welcome to the forum.

Brake rotors:

Front: 28.0mm (new) - 26.0mm (min)

Rear: 16.0mm (new) - 14.0mm (min)

Unless the pads are so worn that they have grooved the rotors I would forgo changing the rotors. Many (most?) members share that opinion.

-njjoe
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post #14 of 16 Old 12-03-2016, 05:36 PM
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Is it possible that my 100k rear original rotors measure 16mm?

Konrad
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Murano SL AWD 2007 - 120k miles
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post #15 of 16 Old 12-05-2016, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by lipcio View Post
Is it possible that my 100k rear original rotors measure 16mm?
Not if the brakes are actually working. You need to use a micrometer for this measurement.



But I presume they are working, because if only the front brakes are working, you'd probably spin 180 degrees the first time you hit the brakes hard. When the front end stops and the back doesn't, the consequences are apparent immediately and vigorously.

I suspect either an error in measurement or new rotors.

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