CV axle boot replacement thread? - Page 2 - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #16 of 55 Old 01-14-2015, 12:33 PM
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I've had the great pleasure of replacing several CV Shafts over the years. Thankfully only one on my MO. Mine apparently became torn because a small piece of sharp metal from the inside of the outer joint became dislodged and tore up the boot from the inside.

I was always taught to NEVER bother with a boot replacement. I understand that your logic originally was that since you know it wasn't torn for long that the guts of the joint are still good. That may be the case, however the amount of labor and your time spent to replace only a boot is as much or more than simply replacing the whole shaft.

I've probably replaced 10-15 CV shafts for myself, friends and family. I've always replaced the complete shaft, always bought whatever the local parts store had on hand with the longest warranty and I have never had to replace that shaft a second time.

Hopefully this helps others who may want to decide whether to replace only a boot or to consider buying a whole CV shaft.

I wouldn't even consider asking the dealer for the price of a CV shaft knowing that the rebuilt unit is about $80 or so compared to the $700 price is just crazy.
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post #17 of 55 Old 01-14-2015, 03:33 PM
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I REALLY appreciate the pix of the axle on ths thread. I have a front axle boot broken and I am working out how to deal with that multi-part axle!

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post #18 of 55 Old 01-14-2015, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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I REALLY appreciate the pix of the axle on ths thread. I have a front axle boot broken and I am working out how to deal with that multi-part axle!
No problem.

This is becoming a nightmare of a repair for me.

I punctured the Advance Auto Parts new axle boot somehow before I got to even install it, however I am not surprised due to how soft the rubber feels compared to the old axle boot.

I took it back and bought a re-manufactured factory axle from Oriellys Auto parts which seems a bit beefier than the cheap new axle from Advance.

The re-manufactured even comes with the rubber dampers as depicted on the Nissan FSM so I will stick with this axle.

However, I still have a problem with reinstalling the half-shaft.

I can not push the half-shaft pass the circlip on the center mount bearing with the circlip installed, but i can easily install the axle after a couple hammer strikes with the clip removed .

I even removed the passenger strut to make more room for my hammer strikes so i can try to push the axle pass the clip, no luck because the clip is stuck open.

I inspected the circlip and noticed that it is stiff and do not flex at all so I ordered a few new circlips from the dealership.

This is a nightmare repair because no auto parts store has any Nissan cv axle parts available

FYI, if you do separate the axles make sure you have a new circlip before you do it or a very large sledge hammer I guess.

Unfortunately, I currently have neither.

Here is my third axle in the last couple days. At-least it seems to be of the same quality of the axle I am changing out.


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post #19 of 55 Old 01-14-2015, 11:40 PM
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Bummer indeed.

Have you searched this and other forums for info on forcing the part past the circlip? There's something in my memory that I read comments about that...but I can't remember where the comments came from.

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post #20 of 55 Old 01-15-2015, 07:14 AM
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I'm surprised the circlip is giving you so much grief. I've done several CV's in various cars and never needed more force than just wiggling it and shoving it with my hands. Make sure it's good and clean and put just a thin coat of grease on it with your finger. Not giant gobs that might contaminate the oil, just enough so it's slippery.

You say it won't go because the circlip is stuck open but that's how circlips work. If it was forced closed entirely it wouldn't function as a locking mechanism.
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post #21 of 55 Old 01-15-2015, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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I do not know why this circlip is so hard to snap in place.

I bought a 12lb hammer today from Harbor Freight to help "persuade the circip" to compress when I attempt to install the shaft when my helper arrives.

As it stands it just sits slightly raised on the top no matter how I position it before I try to install the half-shaft, and prevent the half-shaft from moving pass it, well at least with my smaller 4lb hammer.

I do not know if the circlip is bad or I am just not using the correct amount of force to compress it.

I can not compare it to the new ones until they arrive.



My circlip looks like this:


And it sits like this when I try to install the half-shaft:


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post #22 of 55 Old 01-15-2015, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Good news!!

I finally got the half-axle past the circlip.

I used an idea from one of the Maxima owners is another forum to used the outer axle shaft of the half shaft as an slide hammer while holding the inner axle cup level in place in bearing.

It worked after two hits and was completely seated after about six hits, just as easy as it was when I used the slide hammer to separate the two.

My hammer blows was not working because I was not really holding the cv axle level, and probably not really causing the outer axle shaft to make contact with the inner cup to make a strong enough shock to move the half-shaft pass the circlip.

Learn something new everyday

Now on to assembly!!!

Update: Do not try to remove the old cv axle by using it as a slide-hammer due to the inner bearings being held in place in the cup by only a wire retaining clip.

Half-Axle in place!!!

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post #23 of 55 Old 01-15-2015, 11:19 PM
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if you apply steady, constant pressure while swiveling the cup, it'll pop right in i've found
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post #24 of 55 Old 01-16-2015, 07:07 AM
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if you apply steady, constant pressure while swiveling the cup, it'll pop right in i've found
+1. I have never had to hammer one past the circlip before. Just steady with my hands while rocking it back and forth against the play in the trans. Probably done 10 different cars in my life, including the driver's side on the Murano just a couple weeks back.
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post #25 of 55 Old 01-16-2015, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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+1. I have never had to hammer one past the circlip before. Just steady with my hands while rocking it back and forth against the play in the trans. Probably done 10 different cars in my life, including the driver's side on the Murano just a couple weeks back.


The axle on the driver's side goes into the transmission, which is different from the passenger side half-axle.


The half axle, at least on the AWD models, have to be forced on and off the center bearing mount.


If you guys just pushed it on, then you guys are stronger than me I guess.


Even, the FSM states that you will need to slide hammer the half-shaft off the center bearing and press fit it back on to the bearing.

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post #26 of 55 Old 01-16-2015, 10:03 AM
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Good news!!

I finally got the half-axle past the circlip.

I used an idea from one of the Maxima owners is another forum to used the outer axle shaft of the half shaft as an slide hammer while holding the inner axle cup level in place in bearing.

It worked after two hits and was completely seated after about six hits, just as easy as it was when I used the slide hammer to separate the two.

My hammer blows was not working because I was not really holding the cv axle level, and probably not really causing the outer axle shaft to make contact with the inner cup to make a strong enough shock to move the half-shaft pass the circlip.

Learn something new everyday

Now on to assembly!!!

Half-Axle in place!!!

Definitely the most challenging part of the job. Congratulations.

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post #27 of 55 Old 01-16-2015, 10:58 AM
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Bummer indeed.

Have you searched this and other forums for info on forcing the part past the circlip? There's something in my memory that I read comments about that...but I can't remember where the comments came from.

Were you talking about this? https://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/8...-axle-awd.html
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post #28 of 55 Old 01-16-2015, 11:14 AM
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Yes, that was the thread that my feeble memory was trying to retrieve...

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post #29 of 55 Old 01-16-2015, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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The cv axle swap is complete, as well as the oil change I was originally going to do after my successful test drive.

I have learned a few things from the job.

1. Do not even waste time trying to change out the cv boot on the original Nissan inner cv joint, because the aftermarket cv boots can not seal around the irregular x-like shape of the inner bearing cup.

2. Check your axles in the store, even if you have to cut the box open at the counter to be sure that the axle itself is correct even if the box has the correct part number.

3. If you install new aftermarket axle be very careful due to some having very soft silicon boots on the inner cv boots that can easily be punctured while handling.

4. Last but not least, use the outer cv joint and axle as a slide-hammer while holding the inner axle cup on the center bearing splines to re-install the half-shaft pass the circlip if you have a stiff or hard to press on circlip on the passenger side(AWD owners).

Mission complete


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-I do all the work on it, while constantly begging her to trade it in
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post #30 of 55 Old 01-16-2015, 10:27 PM
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The axle on the driver's side goes into the transmission, which is different from the passenger side half-axle.


The half axle, at least on the AWD models, have to be forced on and off the center bearing mount.


If you guys just pushed it on, then you guys are stronger than me I guess.


Even, the FSM states that you will need to slide hammer the half-shaft off the center bearing and press fit it back on to the bearing.
nothing to do with strength really. that's kind of the idea. just a little finesse. if you look at the c clip that's how it works. when you swivel the cup it catches the c clip edge and causes it to compress, allowing you to slide the female end past. that's how a c clip works. you want to try and compress it while applying steady pressure. doesn't need to be a fight. like most procedures, if you're fighting with it, there's probably a better way
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