?!%#* Axle nut - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 05-02-2016, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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?!%#* Axle nut

Hi,

My dad and I are in the middle of our second day of trying to replace the front hub assemblies on my mom's 2005 Murano.

We followed the relatively simple instructions in the YouTube videos, and we are absolutely stymied by the axle nut on the driver's side. We haven't even attempted the pax side yet.

One thing I noticed is that the YT videos seem to make the assumption that the corrosion holding the hub in place is sufficient resistance to remove the axle nut.

However, while using a hydraulic jack to jack up the breaker bar that corrosion failed, and now, somewhat ironically, the hub itself is free and moving about while the damn axle nut is still in place.

So my question is this: how the heck are we supposed to apply enough leverage now that the hub is moving? I assume the DIY'ers on YouTube instruct to remove the 4 hub bolts before removing the axle nut because the force required to remove the axle nut could shear those four bolts.

Any help is appreciated. Oh, and I don't have an impact wrench.
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post #2 of 11 Old 05-02-2016, 10:43 PM
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One option is to use a crowbar or other lever across the lug studs on the hub, propping the end of the lever against the ground to brace it.

Or - Unless I forget the sequence of disassembly - leave the rotor and caliper on, then stand on the brake to keep the hub from turning?

Using, of course, the proverbial breaker bar with about a 4-foot pipe extension.

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post #3 of 11 Old 05-03-2016, 02:22 AM
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You should not have removed the 4 each hub bolts before loosing the axle nut. Reinstall the 4 bolts and install the tire. Make sure that both tires are on the ground. Then using a breaker bar and cheater pipe loosen the axle nut. You may have to stand or jump on the cheater pipe to loosen the nut.
On the other side, again to sure and loosen the axle nut first. After you remove the 4 hub bolts if the hub is frozen to the hub bracket, get a piece of pipe (I have a 1" bolt with 1-1/2" head and 5-1/2" long) and 3, 4 or 5 pound hammer (normal 16 oz hammer will not work) and at 90 and 270 degree locations just knock the hell out of the back of the old hub and it will come loose.
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-03-2016, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Wingman View Post
You should not have removed the 4 each hub bolts before loosing the axle nut. Reinstall the 4 bolts and install the tire. Make sure that both tires are on the ground. Then using a breaker bar and cheater pipe loosen the axle nut. You may have to stand or jump on the cheater pipe to loosen the nut.
On the other side, again to sure and loosen the axle nut first. After you remove the 4 hub bolts if the hub is frozen to the hub bracket, get a piece of pipe (I have a 1" bolt with 1-1/2" head and 5-1/2" long) and 3, 4 or 5 pound hammer (normal 16 oz hammer will not work) and at 90 and 270 degree locations just knock the hell out of the back of the old hub and it will come loose.
Thank you!

Removing everything but the axle nut in hindsight does not make sense. But the video tutorials on YT seemed pretty thorough, and every (Murano specific) one I watched did do it in that order. I guess they were just fortunate the hub stuck in place well enough...

We will give it a go this evening with the tires on the ground.

Thanks again.
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post #5 of 11 Old 05-03-2016, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tgaudmx5 View Post
Thank you!

Removing everything but the axle nut in hindsight does not make sense. But the video tutorials on YT seemed pretty thorough, and every (Murano specific) one I watched did do it in that order. I guess they were just fortunate the hub stuck in place well enough...

We will give it a go this evening with the tires on the ground.

Thanks again.
Got the axle nut off tonight.

Ended up with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and the 1/2" drive 32 mm socket combined with a 6 ft. piece of black pipe. Took every ounce of my weight bouncing up and down on that pipe to break it loose, but it did break.

Thank you all.

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post #6 of 11 Old 05-04-2016, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by tgaudmx5 View Post
Got the axle nut off tonight.

Ended up with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and the 1/2" drive 32 mm socket combined with a 6 ft. piece of black pipe. Took every ounce of my weight bouncing up and down on that pipe to break it loose, but it did break.

Thank you all.

I see you've had fun w/ that too. I used a similar setup to yours to loosen mine - I used two pipe lengths, one tucked inside the other for additional strength.

I think a shop tightened the nut on there (previous work had been done on the CV boot), since the other side was a cinch to loosen.
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post #7 of 11 Old 05-04-2016, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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I see you've had fun w/ that too. I used a similar setup to yours to loosen mine - I used two pipe lengths, one tucked inside the other for additional strength.

I think a shop tightened the nut on there (previous work had been done on the CV boot), since the other side was a cinch to loosen.
I would totally agree with that. Both sides of this car were so tight it took a ridiculous amount of leverage to break the nuts.

Probably, then, no coincidence that the bearings are shot (that's why I'm removing the nuts in the first place...to replace the hubs...).

Thanks!
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post #8 of 11 Old 05-04-2016, 01:50 PM
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If you like to diy invest in one of these...Electric Impact Wrench - 1/2" Works great and cheap. They put it on sale for 38-40 bucks. Should ease in removal of those big suspension nuts and bolts.
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post #9 of 11 Old 05-04-2016, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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If you like to diy invest in one of these...Electric Impact Wrench - 1/2" Works great and cheap. They put it on sale for 38-40 bucks. Should ease in removal of those big suspension nuts and bolts.
That's awesome, thank you for sharing! I was researching a nice air impact, but looks like a minimum of about $250 between the wrench, fittings, and compressor, and I ain't got that much right now.....
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post #10 of 11 Old 05-04-2016, 05:42 PM
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Do a bit of homework on electric impact wrenches before buying.

The one Nitely linked is fine, but it has 230 lbs/ft of torque.

I bought a similar wrench to the Dewalt below - found it used on Ebay for about the same price. It's a bit beat up, but it has 345 lbs/ft of torque.

DW292K 1/2" (13mm) Impact Wrench Kit | DEWALT Tools

When it comes to impact wrenches, buy the most torque you can get for the money. You may a few bucks more, but that extra oomph makes the difference in an exercise like the one you just did. I don't need an impact wrench to look shiny and new.

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post #11 of 11 Old 05-04-2016, 10:15 PM
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What's the axle nut torque spec anyways? Sorry if it was already mentioned but I believe I went with 150 lbs on mine. Probably not the exact spec but I went off of other vehicles I've previously worked on. I'm guessing the Murano is north of 150 lbs...if I was to guess.
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