06 Murano lurches forward when accelerating - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 03-10-2013, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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06 Murano lurches forward when accelerating

I have a 2006 Murano AWD with 131,000 miles on it. Ever since it hit 100,000 it has been going down hill rapidly. Currently when I accelerate, around 25 mph the Murano lurches forward, almost feeling like someone rear-ended the truck. Then is smooths out until around 45 mph and does it again. It only happens when accelerating and the lurching get more severe and more frequent the longer you drive. I spend about 3 hours in my truck every day. I have taken it into Nissan twice, and left it for a week each time. The first time there was no check engine light, but the second time I brought it in with a check engine light. It was showing the code P1701 and another code for the cat that I can't remember right now. Nissan says the P1701 code is nothing but an FYI code saying that the transmission lost power and the cat code was because of a vacuum leak which they fixed. The problem still presists and Nissan says to drive it until it breaks because they can't detect what is wrong. Anyone have any idea what may be causing this? I just paid it off and really don't want more payments. I bought a Nissan because everyone said they would last forever. I have spent $2500 on it since it past 100,000 miles and let's just say our extended warranty paid for itself when the transfer case went out and then over and over until it hit 100,000 miles. Any advice on what may be causing this lurching would be appreciated. Thanks!
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post #2 of 24 Old 03-10-2013, 10:08 PM
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I'll wait for others to respond but it sounds to me like a transmission problem. Not all mechanical problems cause codes.

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I'll wait for others to respond but it sounds to me like a transmission problem. Not all mechanical problems cause codes.
Thanks. I would definitely love to hear what others think too, but I feel it is the transmission as well. I am familiar with transmission issues in other vehicles and this really feels like a shifting thing. Nissan blows me off every time I try to direct them to the P1701 code saying it is just an FYI. I am going to try a private shop this week for their opinion.
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post #4 of 24 Old 03-11-2013, 11:13 AM
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I'm in the same boat here. Not 100% sure. I can explain repetitive bucking, acceleration hesitation, repetitive whining from he motor mounts but this one is new to me.

It would be good to know under what conditions this happens. Under normal acceleration, hard acceleration, etc? Only when it's cold in the morning or during any temps?

I'm going out on a limb here, but maybe your CVT is slipping? Don't really know as I don't know what a slipping transmission feels like.

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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Originally Posted by Warhammer View Post
I'm going out on a limb here, but maybe your CVT is slipping? Don't really know as I don't know what a slipping transmission feels like.
That's my suspicion as well. The only problems I can think of would result in "bucking" under acceleration are:

1) Motor (ignition or gas) cutting in and out, or
2) Transmission slipping

If you had problem #1, there's enough going on electronically that there should be codes pointing to the problem. With #2 the problems would be primarily mechanical and might not throw codes.

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It usually only does this lurching after about 20-30 minutes of driving. Once it starts, it does it under normal or hard acceleration and always around 25-30 miles per hour. The longer you drive, it starts around 45-50 miles per hour as well. The best way to describe it is that it feels like you are getting rear-ended.

Is it possible that this is a sign of a coil failing? That is the latest thought from Nissan.

It is currently at a private shop to see what they think.

THANKS!
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post #7 of 24 Old 03-11-2013, 03:45 PM
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That kinda sounds like misfiring to me...

The MO's ECU is usually pretty good about identifying which cylinder is misfiring. Surprised you haven't thrown a general misfiring code or a code for a specific cylinder.

Have you tried to do a vacuum leak check on the intake? Maybe a gasket on the intake manifold has opened up.

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post #8 of 24 Old 03-11-2013, 05:36 PM
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I'm encouraged by the additional info. I am also inclined to think the problem is ignition. MUCH cheaper than transmission problems.

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post #9 of 24 Old 03-12-2013, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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After taking it to Nissan for the third time yesterday and forcing the mechanic to drive around with me so I can discuss it with them, they are still stumped as to what is going on. The are holding steady that it is "most likely" a coil going bad. Still no check engine light though. The second time we took it in, the check engine light was on and the codes were P1701 Transmission Control Module Power Supply and P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold - bank 1 probable cause. Anyone know where bank 1 is?? Nissan said that the P0420 was caused because a vacuum line was loose on the rear of the engine. They fixed that on Thursday. I do not think that they ran a vacuum leak check. The light has not come back on, but the lurching seems to be getting worse. I am also noticing that the Murano seems a little sluggish which could be from a coil going bad.

Question: I have an appointment tomorrow morning at 8 am with a private shop. If they can pin point that it is a coil and which one it is, can I just replace one or should I do all six?

Thanks!
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post #10 of 24 Old 03-12-2013, 01:31 PM
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You can replace the individual coil. They're not connected to each other.

Good luck with the troubleshoot. I've got a big "?" over my head right now. Will be watching for the resolution of this issue with great enthusiasm.

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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post #11 of 24 Old 03-12-2013, 02:56 PM
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with coils you can do one. they're either good or bad, they perform in tolerance or not at all. Not like spark plugs that degrade and get weaker over time.

Now, I wouldn't say a code that states "transmission lost power" is nothing but an FYI; that's a big pointer.

As for the cat code, there are 2 or 3 02 sensors, one of them is reading a lean signature; depending on how it's set up they are either all set up on the same "bank" and are numbered "bank 1 sensor 1, bank 1 sensor 2, etc" or they are on different banks, "bank 1 sensor, bank 2 sensor, etc", either way if it's "sensor 1" or "bank1 sensor" it will be the 02 sensor closest to the exhaust manifold, or furthest upstream.

and just in case i haven't said sensor enough... sensor sensor sensor.

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post #12 of 24 Old 03-12-2013, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone! I appreciate being armed with some ideas to discuss with the shop tomorrow morning. I will definitely write what happens.

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Originally Posted by Rstolz View Post

As for the cat code, there are 2 or 3 02 sensors, one of them is reading a lean signature; depending on how it's set up they are either all set up on the same "bank" and are numbered "bank 1 sensor 1, bank 1 sensor 2, etc" or they are on different banks, "bank 1 sensor, bank 2 sensor, etc", either way if it's "sensor 1" or "bank1 sensor" it will be the 02 sensor closest to the exhaust manifold, or furthest upstream.

and just in case i haven't said sensor enough... sensor sensor sensor.
Would an O2 sensor cause the lurching under acceleration that I am experiencing or is there a possibility of two issues?
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post #13 of 24 Old 03-15-2013, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Still no luck after two days with the private shop. They all seem to be stumped. Now I am wondering if I should drive it until it breaks or trade it in before it is too late. We just put new tires and the 120,000 tune up into it...about $2500. I really wish I could get some of that money back out of it since it is newly paid off! ERRRRRRRR
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This is a wild shot, but I'm wondering if there's a dyno around where you could put the car under load while scoping it. Yes, it would cost, but it might save you a trade.

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post #15 of 24 Old 03-15-2013, 01:58 PM
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Sounds like it's time to do your own troubleshooting!

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Originally Posted by fluidmocean View Post
It usually only does this lurching after about 20-30 minutes of driving. Once it starts, it does it under normal or hard acceleration and always around 25-30 miles per hour. The longer you drive, it starts around 45-50 miles per hour as well. The best way to describe it is that it feels like you are getting rear-ended.

Is it possible that this is a sign of a coil failing? That is the latest thought from Nissan.

It is currently at a private shop to see what they think.

THANKS!
So I'm going back to this statement because it gave me an idea. I seriously think you're engine is misfiring. I've experienced this before but in a different vehicle; i.e. 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE 1.8L automatic, but dynamics of how an engine work are the same regardless.

The Sentra's engine would run fine until it got warm then would start to buck if I pressed the gas pedal a bit to accelerate. Usually while under engine load would it buck on me. And it felt like a harsh repetitive surge motion similar to what you're describing. In this situation the ECU did throw a code identifying a misfire on cylinder #3. We looked at the coil, the plug, injector, and everything seemed fine. I let a mechanic friend look at it with one of his cylinder scopes; i.e. pull out the coil and plug and you look down into the cylinder itself. Turns out coolant (antifreeze) was dripping into the cylinder from between the block and head. BINGO, we found the cause of the misfiring.

We ultimately concluded the head gasket around that cylinder had allowed antifreeze to get into the cylinder itself which caused the misfiring. It didn't really happen until the engine got warm though. As any engine warms up, the coolant in the system builds pressure to about +/-15psi. If there is a leak in the system, the interior pressure will force the coolant out. If you have a head gasket leak around one of your cylinders, then it will result in misfiring.

I would highly suggest you get a cylinder scope and have each cylinder checked for fluid after you drive it. The back 3 cylinders will be a PITA to get to but it's necessary. Do the radiator 3 first as they're easy. After your engine warms up, you pull the coils, pull the plugs and take a look. If you see anything fluid inside the cylinders then that's the cause of your misfiring.

It's a thought that came to mind so I figured I would share. Might not be the cause of your issue but it's one thing you can check off the list.

Another possibility would be absence of spark due to shorting. While you're checking the cylinders also look for oil leaking into your spark plug tubes. The head covers for this engine have large/thick rubber rings that help to keep oil inside the head. These sometimes leak and will in some cases cause the spark to weaken as moisture in the oil will cause an electrical short from the plug terminal to the spark plug wall. I remember another forum member having misfiring due to this. He replaced the suspect valve cover and all was resolved. Here's a link that has a picture that describes oil in a spark plug tube (reference post #2 picture 8 of 10):

https://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/6...lve-cover.html

I'm absolutely amazed that seasoned technicians can't figure this one out. Maybe you can! We'll see...

Good luck!

After 142K miles, my MO is history. Now sporting a loaded silver 2012 Ford Edge Limited with 20" wheels.
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