Murano run poor. My daughters. Will try to fix - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #1 of 49 Old 11-24-2017, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Murano run poor. My daughters. Will try to fix

When I picked it up to drive it home it has SES light that was on and would blink, VCD light would come on. Car ran like it had 10 ton brick behind it. Very poor take off. Bucks and pings. On my drive home I stopped and had codes read. The autozone guy said all he found was p0300. Never showed me the meter and didn't print out the code, so I think he had a problem reading the codes.

So far I've changed the oil. Changed all spark plugs. Changed the crankshaft sensor. Changed the MAF sensor. Sprayed 1 can of seafoam thru it with a straw down-wind of the maf sensor. Reset he tpms sys -all tires had ** for air pressure and was lit.

Now I just had the codes read at another part store and they showed me the codes which were - C1131, P0725, P1564,P0303, P0300. - I wish I had kept the spark plugs in order with the cylinders I took them from. They were crusted pretty bad, some worse than others with light brown build up. None especially different from another. I think I'm gonna need to take the intake off again to check -replace coil -injectors or such, especially with the p0303. It's running better but not good like it should.
-PS- I hate the dip stick to chek oil on this car. It never has seemed to pick up oil and read like normal cars.
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post #2 of 49 Old 11-24-2017, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone purchased a cheap OBD test meter that works ok for this model nissan. I need to read the codes and turn them off. Can't afford an expensive one. I have an open source ELM327 with software that works on my buicks, but doesn't seem to like the nissan. I'd be willing to buy some nissan OBD2 windows software if someone has seen /used some that works well. Don't need much but would like to see fuel trims and MAF info etc...

I do not want to throw money at it and there is no Stealership I trust or want to tell me I need to spend 3000 dollars on stuff I can avoid buying.
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post #3 of 49 Old 11-24-2017, 07:00 PM
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FYI, a light brown coating on spark plug is generally good news. It shows even and consistent ignition, no excess oil burning.

Can't help you on the OBD reader, but if you already have the ELM you might think about compatible software via Ebay or the ELM's maker.
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post #4 of 49 Old 11-25-2017, 12:37 AM
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it would be helpful to know how many miles, is daughter original owner or is it a recent used purchase & etc etc.


i say check fuses (cabin and engine bay) along with battery and it's wires/ground and put a bottle of redline si-1 in it on a fresh tank of premium. reset codes and wait to see what that does. if miles at high enough to change spark plugs, o2 sensors may be prudent also.
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post #5 of 49 Old 11-26-2017, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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My daughter bought it used. This is the 2nd time I've replaced spark plugs. She has put about 50,000 on it. It currently has around 186,000 miles.
After replacing a few things I've got it down to a p0303. So off again with the intake to swapp the coil and injector to the front.
I'd go to pull a part and get some off a newer car if I knew which late models would work well on this engine.
It's just depressing the misfire is on cylinder 3. If I could replace the rear fuel injectors and coils I could at least have a much easier time replacing the front.

I agree the color of the plugs were good. It just started to run very bad so I went and got it. If the 1st obd read by autozone had indicated a p0303 instead of a p0300 I'd have at least moved any suspect odd number coil/injectors to the front. Oh well. Gonna work on it again today.
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post #6 of 49 Old 11-26-2017, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the #3 spark plug is as new looking as the day i put it in.....3 days? Anyway comparing it to one other you can tell it has never fired. Took some ohm readings on the coil and it doesn't seem bad? The injector doesn't "look" stuck closed.
The fact it is so clean makes me think it's not been firing at all. Otherwise I should see some heat or carbon on it. It could be not getting a trigger to fire from the connector on back...I hope not and am gonna go get a coil and injector or two from pullapart.

Gonna really be angry if I get the intake back on and #3 still isn't firing. OK off to the junk yard........
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post #7 of 49 Old 11-26-2017, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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One question while I'm gone....
Anybody reused the intake gasket? Yep I'm a cheap-scape. Later.....

and i just noticed it says im posting this question at 5:20 pm - its 11:20am where i live.
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post #8 of 49 Old 11-26-2017, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Dang I'm disappointed. Replaced coil and injector for cyl 3. Runs much better but still has a miss. Autozone pulled a p0303 a few minutes ago. I may need to just get some new injectors and coils.
It does run much better. but still a slight misfire on cyl 3.

Not sure I feel like reworking the injectors. Not sure the one I got from pullapart isn't in poor shape also. Crap. Hope the valves are ok, but It wasn't firing at all and now it's firing, just not every time like it should. I'll do some more tomorrow.
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post #9 of 49 Old 11-26-2017, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Anybody ever purchased the coils that claim 15% increase in spark power?

Bravex ignition coils. - German Copper, high temperature epoxy, lifetime warranty. About 50.00 for six. May be a Black Friday deal, but Ebay has them via a gold star seller.

I may purchase a fuel injectors rework parts kit.

Gonna get back on it tomorrow.
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post #10 of 49 Old 11-27-2017, 12:02 AM
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They may work fine, but they won't save gas or make it run better.

Snake oil is the same flavor today as it was 50 years ago.

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post #11 of 49 Old 11-27-2017, 02:02 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not looking for faster or gas mileage. I just don't like paying alot for parts. A used coil at pulapart is 18.00. That seems high for a used spark plug coil. They sell a single 1of 6 coilpack for 9.95. I told them that's what mine should also cost. I'm not sure I've ever seen six or 4 single coils that are not over the plug coils. So I can get 6 new ones for 50.00 which is 1/2 as much as a used set at pullapart.

I wish I knew a late model nissan/infinity that I could get a set of injectors from. Looks like the R42-12327 was last used around 2007/8. They also look like a pain to rework. I don't even see where the filter in the injector is located.

Looks like I'm gonna need to remove the intake about two more times. I'll probably do a compression test this time just to make sure I don't have an internal issue. I really thought I had it fixed but it's still got a small miss. p0303. Using junkyard parts you never can be absolutely sure.
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post #12 of 49 Old 11-27-2017, 12:08 PM
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I agree, even to the extent that I'd only install a used coil if I were halfway through a trip and the car was malfunctioning. There are many aftermarket sources for new ones that aren't expensive. I am generally a believer in wrecking yard parts, but less so when it comes to ignition parts.

Tough deal on the injectors, and even getting a set cleaned and tested costs some $. But it's less than replacements - you can find places online that will clean and evaluate the existing injectors - that usually works out well.
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post #13 of 49 Old 11-27-2017, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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OK off with the intake again. The plug has been firing, but also misfiring (cyl 3) Po303) I had moved a coil from the front to the back. Changed the FE but it's from the junk yard....
The compression jumped to 120psi with a bump of the starter. Stayed there. - So I'm beginning to think something is amiss with the signal from the ecu/ignition sys to that cylinder. No obvious wires broken. I should check that. I'm gonna stumble around and see if I can figure a way to make sure the signal to that cylinder is right. Debating on rigging a long pigtail to connect between the coil and the connector that would give me access to it with the intake on.
I saw a thread where a person had p0300 & p0303 with an inefecient cat code - p0420, i think it was. I've never got a cat or O2 code on this car, and this cylinder was dead at one time. Didn't even try to fire. I made it better but still have a p0303 code.

Gonna move a coil and injector from a working cyl again. I do see I put a junk yard fuel injector on this cyl (didn't mean to do that) so it's possible I went from a dead coil to a dirty FE. I'm not asking anyone to fix this on-line just telling y'all what I'm doing.
I hope to post what fixed it soon. It takes patients and a cool head to work on problems like this.

Back to work. Thanks for the prayers from any religious types. I'm OK with divine intervention if it gets this car fixed.
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post #14 of 49 Old 11-27-2017, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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One more thing. The coils I bought from ebay are coming from China! That wasn't explicit if I remember correctly because I will not order parts from overseas due to the time involved as much as anything. Heck "auto-x" sell enough parts from China already. I'm tempted to call and tell em to take em back. I hate waiting on parts.
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post #15 of 49 Old 11-27-2017, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Update....I removed the intake again. Took the coil for #3 , spark plug for #3 and injector for #3 and set aside. Used brake cleaner with the tire stem and a battery set up to clean injectors or make sure they were flowing and spraying well. Used all the best parts I had, plugs,coils, injectors and put it all back together. -(battery disconnected as always when working on it)

Started right up and idled like a champ. Smooth as butter. Backed out of the drive and seemed to have low power. No missing or vibration, just like I was pulling something heavy. SES light was blinking so went straight to Autozone to get codes read. Smelled like seafoam with some smoke around the car. Looked underneath and the cat was glowing cherry red.
Had the codes pulled and got 1 code. P0300. ...Drove down the highway for about 10 miles. Pulled over and cat was red and even behind the muffler was starting to glow a bit. A driver pulled over and said my exhaust was so hot he was scared to ride close behind me.....he said he was a mechanic and some of the Muranos had a bug that would not show an exhaust code if the cat was clogged. ...? Well it sure seems so. All cylinders seem to be running smooth but a lack of power.
.......so off with the main cat under the car tomorrow. Strange, but never had an O2 code or cat code. I'll keep you guys up to date.
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