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Kashmir 02-24-2018 04:42 PM

Battery and Brake Light On
2005 Nissan Murano. I have been having electrical problems for five months. The first instance was when my girlfriend was driving the car, classic power failure where she lost all power (terrifying). It was outside my neighborhood. Mechanic in that neighborhood said that it was the belt. He replaced it. He said the alternator was fine. About a week later, car wouldn't start. No power in the car (lights, radio) I figured the battery got fried in the process of the last failure, replaced the battery. Fine for a week, then car wouldn't start. Took the car to pep boys, had them look at it. They said everything was fine, they did put a new post on and tightened everything up. Then the car wouldn't start a week later, no power in the car. Had the car towed. During the tow, tow truck driver couldn't turn the car with a battery pack connected to battery. Pep Boys (don't really like these guys anymore, sorry Pep Boys), said the starter was bad (possible since we couldn't turn it over with alternate power source), had the battery replaced again. No mention that alternator was bad.

Well girlfriend drives car, car loses all power. IO.K. so you're screaming alternator) Went to my local mechanic this time, he replaced the alternator. Driving the car home, the car tends to hesitate slowing down to a stop, like it wants to die. I can hear and feel a vibration from the engine like something is having trouble fully engaging. Seems to improve though as I drive on. Car is dead the next day. Mechanic comes over jumps it with a battery pack. He takes a look at it. It's starting fine at the shop. Computer says its fine. I pick it up, drive off, same hesitation problem, this time I lose all car power(not electrical inside) and can start it back up, drive it back to the shop. Mechanic says its the cam sensor, replaces it. He drives it four miles. I drive it about four miles fine from the garage without anymore more hesitating. But two days later, today, girlfriend tells me battery brake light came on and went off a minute later.

So, from what I gather, the obvious problem is the alternator. That's what the light indicators say. But, as you can see from the lengthy post, I'm wondering if it can be anything else. I'm going to have my mechanic look at it immediately for alternator problems, ask to replace it again (hopefully no cost) but since I'm ready to tear my hair out, wondering if anyone had insight on other potential problems.

Pilgrim 02-24-2018 04:58 PM

90% chance your battery is bad. You didn't say it has ever been replaced, so that's the first place to go.

I'm going to recommend two tools that every car owner should have. You'll use them for many years. Everyone needs to have a digital muiltimeter and a decent battery charger.

Charge the battery thoroughly. Let it sit overnight and check voltage across the terminals; if it's under 12V you have a bad battery. Most cars won't start if a battery is under 12V.

Start the car and immediately check voltage across the battery terminals - it should be over 14V. If not, you have a bad alternator. Cars actually run at a bit more than 14V.

This is simple stuff you can do at home.


Battery charger:

surban1 02-25-2018 07:26 PM

with nissan, brake and battery lights on usually equate to bad alternator. when you replaced/recharged the battery it held until it used up its charge; the alternator put on was probably some cheap rebuilt crap. do the checks pilgrim recommends and then you'll likely have to get another alternator. this time, buy a new quality brand alternator and when put on make sure battery is fully recharged; your problem wont reoccur (unless you got the dreaded weird nissan parasitic draw but that's another animal entirely).

Hugh Jass Koda 03-17-2018 06:30 AM

I agree. Battery light with a Brake light is the tale tale sign of a broken wire inside the alternator. It was a recall with stock Nissan alternators.

I hate to judge someone without ever meeting them but you might want to check into a new mechanic. From what you wrote I'm not feeling the guy you've been using. Just saying. I apologize if I am wrong there.

Pilgrim 03-17-2018 10:00 PM

I would agree that an alternator fault is likely. Using the multimeter when the car is running will tell you if it's not producing sufficient voltage.

Kashmir 03-18-2018 11:46 PM

Not Alternator/Not Battery
Thanks for all of the responses. Had the alternator replaced a second time at no cost. Car ran for a little bit, and then it wouldn't start. Mechanic says that the alternator is fine, battery is fine, starter is fine (all have been recently replaced). But there is some parasitic drain on the battery, he is currently trying to locate it. Any ideas?

Hugh Jass Koda 03-19-2018 09:35 AM

You said this vehicle is primarily driven by your girlfriend? Replace her! I'm sorry. I appologize for that one. I have nothing and hope you get this figured out. If you do please post here what you found in case others run into the same problem.

Pilgrim 03-19-2018 12:13 PM

Hmmmm...parasitic drain.

Have you had any electrical accessories or mods done recently? Any repairs to electrical equipment?

It's a good idea to identify the last thing done to the car and look there for errors.

Copper298 01-19-2019 05:39 PM

I am having this same issue. Did you ever find the problem?

meli 05-15-2019 07:43 PM

I am also having the same problem with a 09 murano I own. Replaced the battery about 2 months ago and now cars stuck in a shop they’ve replaced the alternator twice and still not working

Stacy Kinney 05-27-2019 08:29 PM

I am also having this issue with my 2009. If I unplug the battery for about a 30 min it seems to be ok for a few days.

I have read that there is a issues like this with the 2005 and the brake and battery light means alternator is bad. Does anyone know if there is a recall for this? This seems to be a common problem and it is very dangerous. Thanks.

Dave Wallace 05-29-2019 04:03 PM

This happened to me in my 2007 Murano turned out a fusible link blew on my positive battery post terminal connector . It’s a black box attached to the positive cable link blows and puts car in limp mode and it’ll stay and only battery and brake light come on . My mechanic just bypassed it and spliced in a new wire to connect to positive terminal cause you have to replace fusible link box and another piece that is expensive if one of the link blows and this was a way cheaper fix my mechanic charged me $40

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