Engine issues. 2007 AWD Model - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 05-18-2019, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Engine issues. 2007 AWD Model

Hello. Last October I got a used 2007 AWD Model with exactly 12500 miles on it. Crazy right?

Anyways after sorting out a brake issue that the dealership covered Things were fine for a few months. However last month it started stalling out randomly. Eventually found out is was probably the Camshaft sensors. So i replaced both of them and it ran great. For a week.

3 days ago I drove up to Indianapolis. It's around a 4 hour drive for me. It Ran great the entire way up. Then on the way back down ( around 40 mile from home) it started jerking/shaking really hard and the engine was revving up and down constantly, but it was worse when i accelerated. I noticed the issue was the worse between about 1800 and 2400 RPM. Witch is where it cruises at. above or below it was almost a none issue. Well today i Reset the ECU and did the relarning stuff and it's helped a lot, but it's still having issues. A buddy of mine who knows cars better then I says it's either a clogged Fuel filter or the Throttle Body Position Sensor. What do you guys think?

and yes i drove it that last 40 miles. also it never kicked into Limp Home Mode as I've found out is a thing.
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post #2 of 8 Old 05-18-2019, 09:03 PM
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Hello. Last October I got a used 2007 AWD Model with exactly 12500 miles on it. Crazy right?

Anyways after sorting out a brake issue that the dealership covered Things were fine for a few months. However last month it started stalling out randomly. Eventually found out is was probably the Camshaft sensors. So i replaced both of them and it ran great. For a week.

3 days ago I drove up to Indianapolis. It's around a 4 hour drive for me. It Ran great the entire way up. Then on the way back down ( around 40 mile from home) it started jerking/shaking really hard and the engine was revving up and down constantly, but it was worse when i accelerated. I noticed the issue was the worse between about 1800 and 2400 RPM. Witch is where it cruises at. above or below it was almost a none issue. Well today i Reset the ECU and did the relarning stuff and it's helped a lot, but it's still having issues. A buddy of mine who knows cars better then I says it's either a clogged Fuel filter or the Throttle Body Position Sensor. What do you guys think?

and yes i drove it that last 40 miles. also it never kicked into Limp Home Mode as I've found out is a thing.
You say you reset the ECM and did an idle relearn and that "helped a lot" but you're "still having issues." How did those help and what issues do you continue to have? Is the ECM throwing any codes?

If you suspect the Throttle Position Sensor then look at the live data PIDs using a decent scan tool for accelerator position and throttle position, especially while the car is acting up and that should give you an idea.
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post #3 of 8 Old 05-18-2019, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Well For starters Resetting the ECM/ECU Naturally cleared the codes, but that wasn't my intention as I KNOW there is an issue. Basically I wanted to reset and Clear everything to ensure I was working from a clean slate so to speak, plus I secretly hoped it would fix it. Before I replaced the camshaft sensors I was getting a P0340 Code. Replacing them got rid of that and everything was fine. I don't know the exact code I'm getting ATM as a inspite of the issue it hasn't coded since I reset the ECM. Basically the engine still shakes and revs up and down constantly like it did before, however the range it does it in is tighter , doesn't shake nearly as hard, and now it it gets really bad between 60-70 mph instead of 45-60 mph. Took it out on a section of highway near the house to test it.

Current Running theory my friend has is the TPS has been going bad for some time and the camshaft sensors were able to make up for it somehow and I only started having issue when they finally wore out. Once replace I was fine again, Till my trip. I'll have to get it on a tester again to see if it's the TPS or not. I got back late from my trip Friday and wasn't able to make it out to anyplace with a tool today because of other thing I had to take care of (chores, mom doesn't seem to think me fixing my car is more important). We don't have one either.

I should note that it idles fine. and IF I'm able to get over 2400 RPM the issue is nearly nonexistent. however as it likes to sit at around 2k RPM it's an issue.

And to explain the range thing a bit better I looked at the cars MPG estimater at one point while it was happening and noted even on a level road with constant speed and a steady RPM it would fluctuate wildly between 6 and 30 MPG while it's shaking.
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post #4 of 8 Old 05-19-2019, 01:51 PM
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Well For starters Resetting the ECM/ECU Naturally cleared the codes, but that wasn't my intention as I KNOW there is an issue. Basically I wanted to reset and Clear everything to ensure I was working from a clean slate so to speak, plus I secretly hoped it would fix it. Before I replaced the camshaft sensors I was getting a P0340 Code. Replacing them got rid of that and everything was fine. I don't know the exact code I'm getting ATM as a inspite of the issue it hasn't coded since I reset the ECM. Basically the engine still shakes and revs up and down constantly like it did before, however the range it does it in is tighter , doesn't shake nearly as hard, and now it it gets really bad between 60-70 mph instead of 45-60 mph. Took it out on a section of highway near the house to test it.

Current Running theory my friend has is the TPS has been going bad for some time and the camshaft sensors were able to make up for it somehow and I only started having issue when they finally wore out. Once replace I was fine again, Till my trip. I'll have to get it on a tester again to see if it's the TPS or not. I got back late from my trip Friday and wasn't able to make it out to anyplace with a tool today because of other thing I had to take care of (chores, mom doesn't seem to think me fixing my car is more important). We don't have one either.

I should note that it idles fine. and IF I'm able to get over 2400 RPM the issue is nearly nonexistent. however as it likes to sit at around 2k RPM it's an issue.

And to explain the range thing a bit better I looked at the cars MPG estimater at one point while it was happening and noted even on a level road with constant speed and a steady RPM it would fluctuate wildly between 6 and 30 MPG while it's shaking.
Does your car have cruise control? If so, does it behave the same way when adjusting the speed using just the cruise control switches (i.e. not using the accelerator pedal)?
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-19-2019, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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It does however it hasn't worked since I got the car and I never got it fixed as I never used it anyways. In going to see if my local AutoZone is open today if I can't get into my dealership s service center today.

Okay so after driving into town the Engin light finally came back on.

Plus for about 3 or 4 mile after i started the car the issue didn't seem to be there. It ran entire normal. Then once i hit the bypass it kicked in. Not really relevant i was on the bypass. Spped on the road all the way into town is 50/55.
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-19-2019, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Okay. Got to AutoZone. Im still reading a P0345 on Bank 2. And i got a P0301 on Cylinder 1.

I replaced both so is it likely the cable to it is bad?
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post #7 of 8 Old 05-19-2019, 10:39 PM
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Okay. Got to AutoZone. Im still reading a P0345 on Bank 2. And i got a P0301 on Cylinder 1.

I replaced both so is it likely the cable to it is bad?
Could be. It's always a good idea to check the circuit before changing out a sensor. Go to the nicoclub website and download the service manual for your make/model. You'll find a wiring diagram and troubleshooting instructions in the "EC" file.

If you used aftermarket replacements, there is a small chance that they were defective out of the box.

BTW...what's the story with your 12-year old car only having 12,500 miles?
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post #8 of 8 Old 05-20-2019, 02:19 AM Thread Starter
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Yes. A typo. 125,000 miles is correct.

I'm just glad it probably isn't the TPS. However Based on what the guy at Autozone told me I'll def need some new spark plugs and maybe a good fuel injector cleaning. Assuming that the Injectors and the engine coil are good.
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