LED Rear Reflector Lights - Page 2 - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #16 of 31 Old 05-11-2013, 03:10 AM
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Baloo,

DIY is here thanks to crazy_legs03

DIY Guide is at bottom after You Tube vids
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post #17 of 31 Old 05-12-2013, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Baloo,

DIY is here thanks to crazy_legs03

DIY Guide is at bottom after You Tube vids
Thanks mate, look forward to fitting them.
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post #18 of 31 Old 06-14-2018, 09:15 AM
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Hey guys,

anyone have a link or name of the type of crimp connector used? All i see is a generic metal piece that I haven't been able to find in a few stores. Most are too big to shove into the back of the white connector plug.

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post #19 of 31 Old 06-14-2018, 06:06 PM
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Bought a pair on ebay for $11 free shipping from Hong Kong. They are all made in China anyway, and I doubt that the $30 ones are any different....

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post #20 of 31 Old 06-14-2018, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Block8head View Post
Yes they are perfect fit. Just like Stock...



The install is pretty straight forward. There is the screw that holding the reflector in place, you have to remove them from behind the bumper..
You don't have to remove the bumper, just removes the clips and pull the bumper out to make enough room to stick your hand behind it with a small screw driver and unscrew them...
There is no screw on the '13. Just pop it out.....

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post #21 of 31 Old 06-26-2018, 07:02 PM
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Bought a pair on ebay for $11 free shipping from Hong Kong. They are all made in China anyway, and I doubt that the $30 ones are any different....
Installed. Fit perfectly, very bright. Gives me driving and brake lights. Can't beat 'em for $11!

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post #22 of 31 Old 06-26-2018, 10:48 PM
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Installed. Fit perfectly, very bright. Gives me driving and brake lights. Can't beat 'em for $11!
how did you connect the wires from reflector to the harness/main wire?

what type of connector did you use and where did you get it from?

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post #23 of 31 Old 06-27-2018, 12:45 AM
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Strip, splice solder, tape; in the harness behind the tail lights...

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post #24 of 31 Old 06-27-2018, 08:53 AM
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Strip, splice solder, tape; in the harness behind the tail lights...
You can also pig-tail the new lights into the backside of the closest connector for the lights.


Strip, solder the end. Using a needle nose plier, stick the soldered wire into the back of the lighting connector, along side the existing wire. When you have all the wires stuck in and lights are working correctly, wire tie or tape the new wires to the existing ones so that they can't slip out if pulled on or accidentally hit.


Very clean and leaves the wiring in it's original state if you want to remove the bumper lights and move or sell them.


You can also a search of "pig-tail", I've posted several pictures and walk-thru which can give you a little more detail.


Hope this helps you out.


Have a good day.

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post #25 of 31 Old 06-27-2018, 01:02 PM
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No connectors in the area of the lights. The reflectors are part of the car. $11. Take out and reuse? Are you serious?

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post #26 of 31 Old 06-27-2018, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by PaulDay View Post
You can also pig-tail the new lights into the backside of the closest connector for the lights.


Strip, solder the end. Using a needle nose plier, stick the soldered wire into the back of the lighting connector, along side the existing wire. When you have all the wires stuck in and lights are working correctly, wire tie or tape the new wires to the existing ones so that they can't slip out if pulled on or accidentally hit.


Very clean and leaves the wiring in it's original state if you want to remove the bumper lights and move or sell them.


You can also a search of "pig-tail", I've posted several pictures and walk-thru which can give you a little more detail.


Hope this helps you out.


Have a good day.
can you link your pig tail post?

I'd love pictures. I've got the wires stripped and I'd love to pig tail them and put them in without soldering or splice connecting to the original lines

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I like to detail cars. If you have any detailing questions I'd love to help!
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post #27 of 31 Old 06-27-2018, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by m4gician View Post
can you link your pig tail post?

I'd love pictures. I've got the wires stripped and I'd love to pig tail them and put them in without soldering or splice connecting to the original lines

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https://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/...pgrades-2.html


Read post 18. You can also pig-tail into the back of some auto light sockets.


Pig-Tails: You'll see me using that term a lot. I learned this technique back in the mid 70's when stereo swap outs were the rage and it was the way that a garage would wire in tow lights to your car. Didn't have kits or these quick electrical taps and such. If done right, it's perfectly safe for low wattage connections, less the 35 watts.


A pig-tail connection is as follows: The wire that you want to insert into the back side of a connector (The side where the wires come out.), strip off between 1/4 and 3/8 inch of the insulation and twist the bare wire to stiffen it. Using a soldering iron (gun) tin the exposed wire cleanly, no lumps or extra solder. Cover the exposed wire with DI-Electric grease to help the contact and prevent corrosion. Using a needle nose pliers grip the wire just above the tinned wire part. Slightly move the existing wire aside and push the tinned wire down into the opening until insulation is down into the connector opening so that no bare wire is exposed. If the wire is the right size, you can actually feel your wire scrapping the metal connector below and making contact. Give a slight tug to make sure it's seated tight. If not, remove it and using the needle nose pliers give the tinned end a small kink and re-insert. If still loose add a little more solder to make it thicker.


This technique can be used on any connector. Try to use the same gauge wire and always use a inline fuse just large enough so that you're not popping fuses on your add on device.



Have a good day.

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Gun Metallic w/Glass Coat Finish
20" Chrome Rims
Bose Audio
Thinkware 800 Pro Front/Rear Camera
3D Maxpider Mats w/Cargo Cover & Net
Curtis Class 3 Hitch w/OEM Tow Harness
Frameless Rear View Mirror
Illuminated Kick Plates & Foot Well Lighting
Sonic Shock Sensor (Active Alarm Upgrade)
Rear Bumper European LED Lighting
Front DRL/Turn Signal LED Lighting @ Fog Light Frame
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All LED Lighting
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post #28 of 31 Old 06-28-2018, 12:29 AM
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In this case, all of the original lights you are connecting to are LED arrays. There are electronics inside the light sockets. Mess those up and you will have hundreds of dollars of woe. Splicing to the wires coming in to the light sockets is so much easier...... Again I repeat - there are NO connectors there. The tail light assembly and wiring to it is all outside the body; no need to drill holes in the body to get aux wiring inside.

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post #29 of 31 Old 06-28-2018, 09:43 AM
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In this case, all of the original lights you are connecting to are LED arrays. There are electronics inside the light sockets. Mess those up and you will have hundreds of dollars of woe. Splicing to the wires coming in to the light sockets is so much easier...... Again I repeat - there are NO connectors there. The tail light assembly and wiring to it is all outside the body; no need to drill holes in the body to get aux wiring inside.
1. Pig-tailing should always be done inside the car.


2. Splicing outside the car body where the splice is exposed to the elements should always be a no-no, except where totally avoidable. And then only a splice joint that is soldered, coated in di-electric grease and covered with the proper sized shrink tube. All this is to avoid electrical problems in the future due to corrosion, which will happen to an improperly sealed splice. Y splices are impossible to seal unless you can squeeze some silicone into Y of the finished splice.


All that being said, and realizing it's the same setup as the first gen, the new bumper light wire can be brought into the cargo area of the Murano thru the existing rubber grommet provided for the OE tow harness and use the rear lighting connectors in the cargo area for the connections. Seal the grommet on both sides with silicone after passing the wire thru to seal it. If you were having these lights installed by a professional body shop, this is the way that it would be done (Although they would probably do the connectors with a t-harness.), same as tow lights.


I'm old school and was always taught to leave the car in original condition as possible when adding/modding, properly running wiring, all new wiring covered with wire loom and electrical tape, removing panels for access, etc. In other words, doing an install that even the factory techs wouldn't realize it's not OE, unless it's pointed out to them.


Yes, all this takes a lot more effort and time then just doing a hack splice, but the owner will have piece of mind that they won't have problems down the road, same as they would expect to have if having the installation done by a professional.


I also did this to my 2017.5 a week after I bought it. To do it properly, I dropped the entire bumper and used water-proof marine grade connectors at that point before bringing the wires in thru the existing grommet used for the rear sensors, sealing it with silicone. Now if the bumper ever needs to be dropped, just unplug the connector for the bumper lights. I believe that I have pics of the process in one of my posts, if interested.


And I think that this subject is just about finished.


On a final note, obtain the factory service manual for your car if doing your own work/repairs. The entire Murano FSM is $20.00, well worth the investment. The FSM makes a job like removing the bumper much less daunting when you have the procedure on how to remove it properly, also wire coding so you won't have to guess which wire is which when making the connections.


Have a good day.

2017.5 Murano Platinum w/Tech package
Gun Metallic w/Glass Coat Finish
20" Chrome Rims
Bose Audio
Thinkware 800 Pro Front/Rear Camera
3D Maxpider Mats w/Cargo Cover & Net
Curtis Class 3 Hitch w/OEM Tow Harness
Frameless Rear View Mirror
Illuminated Kick Plates & Foot Well Lighting
Sonic Shock Sensor (Active Alarm Upgrade)
Rear Bumper European LED Lighting
Front DRL/Turn Signal LED Lighting @ Fog Light Frame
Full Underbody LED Ground Lighting
All LED Lighting
Michelin Premier LTX 255/55/20 Tires
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post #30 of 31 Old 06-28-2018, 02:50 PM
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1. Pig-tailing should always be done inside the car.


2. Splicing outside the car body where the splice is exposed to the elements should always be a no-no, except where totally avoidable. And then only a splice joint that is soldered, coated in di-electric grease and covered with the proper sized shrink tube. All this is to avoid electrical problems in the future due to corrosion, which will happen to an improperly sealed splice. Y splices are impossible to seal unless you can squeeze some silicone into Y of the finished splice.


All that being said, and realizing it's the same setup as the first gen, the new bumper light wire can be brought into the cargo area of the Murano thru the existing rubber grommet provided for the OE tow harness and use the rear lighting connectors in the cargo area for the connections. Seal the grommet on both sides with silicone after passing the wire thru to seal it. If you were having these lights installed by a professional body shop, this is the way that it would be done (Although they would probably do the connectors with a t-harness.), same as tow lights.


I'm old school and was always taught to leave the car in original condition as possible when adding/modding, properly running wiring, all new wiring covered with wire loom and electrical tape, removing panels for access, etc. In other words, doing an install that even the factory techs wouldn't realize it's not OE, unless it's pointed out to them.


Yes, all this takes a lot more effort and time then just doing a hack splice, but the owner will have piece of mind that they won't have problems down the road, same as they would expect to have if having the installation done by a professional.


I also did this to my 2017.5 a week after I bought it. To do it properly, I dropped the entire bumper and used water-proof marine grade connectors at that point before bringing the wires in thru the existing grommet used for the rear sensors, sealing it with silicone. Now if the bumper ever needs to be dropped, just unplug the connector for the bumper lights. I believe that I have pics of the process in one of my posts, if interested.


And I think that this subject is just about finished.


On a final note, obtain the factory service manual for your car if doing your own work/repairs. The entire Murano FSM is $20.00, well worth the investment. The FSM makes a job like removing the bumper much less daunting when you have the procedure on how to remove it properly, also wire coding so you won't have to guess which wire is which when making the connections.


Have a good day.
I have no desire to drag this out, or make more difficult or contentious. That being said, I do not disagree with your approach, BUT IMHO it it extremely conservative. To each his own on that. Removal of all that interior trim to get at wiring is not a job I would look foreward to. Remember that the first gen taillights went THROUGH the body, so the only way to get at that wiring was from inside. On the second gen, just removal of the taillight assembly from outside gives you access to the wiring...
Just aside, I DO have the FSM (got it free from NICO Club, probably no longer available). The second gen FSM is terrible for electrical wiring compared to the first gen FSM.
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