Right front (AWD) CV axle replacement - Nissan Murano Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 06-16-2019, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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Right front (AWD) CV axle replacement

Is there a step-by-step DIY for 2010 Murano LE right front (AWD) CV axle replacement on this site?

I found some YouTube videos, but they are mostly for up to 2007 (first generation) Murano.

My inner boot is leaking grease and splattering everywhere.

Dealer quote $1400. (LOL)

I see the aftermarket part is only $90 to $120.
In the worst case, I'll find some local mechanic to do it,
but if I can get a good instruction, I should be able to do this.
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post #2 of 13 Old 06-16-2019, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by CowBoE View Post
Is there a step-by-step DIY for 2010 Murano LE right front (AWD) CV axle replacement on this site?

I found some YouTube videos, but they are mostly for up to 2007 (first generation) Murano.

My inner boot is leaking grease and splattering everywhere.

Dealer quote $1400. (LOL)

I see the aftermarket part is only $90 to $120.
In the worst case, I'll find some local mechanic to do it,
but if I can get a good instruction, I should be able to do this.

I don't know that there's a step-by-step guide on this site, but the RH axle is similar between the 1st and 2nd generation Muranos so the procedure is basically identical. If it's a leaking boot then it's the outboard joint so pretty straight-forward except the tricky part may be separating the joint from the carrier bearing.
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post #3 of 13 Old 06-18-2019, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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You are right. I think other videos will provide most of the clue.
It seems taking off the ball joint is the most difficult followed by pulling out the axle.

I was able to find step-by-step instructions in the "Front Axle" portion of the factory service manual.
If I get a chance, I may make this my first YouTube video.
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-18-2019, 11:06 PM
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Don't bother with the ball joint. Just remove the axle nut, make sure the axle is free from the wheel hub assembly, and then take out the 2 strut mount bolts from the steering knuckle. Be sure to take the brake line and wheel speed sensors out of their brackets so they don't get over-stretched (...you can use bungee cord to tie the knuckle to the coil, if necessary). Service manual recommends a slide hammer with a special attachment to break the outboard joint free, but you might be able to get it done by getting underneath the car and hammering on the back of the joint with a long punch (...hammer, rotate axle, hammer, rotate axle...). I don't think there's space to get a pry bar in there.
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post #5 of 13 Old 06-25-2019, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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That's good to know that ball joint doesn't have to come off.
Now only remaining trick is getting the axle pulled out.
I'll have to get under the car and see what room I have.
I've seen videos where the slide hammer doesn't seem to reliably work.
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post #6 of 13 Old 06-25-2019, 08:44 PM
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Have never replaced half shaft on 4 WD, However, have removed and reinstalled both axles on my son's vehicle and other vehicles for friends. Only once did I have to break the ball loose. Do not, I repeat, do use one of the cheap axles from China. If the boot has not been broken for a long time, best to remove the original axle, remove all the existing grease, clean and dry the joint, re-grease the joint and just replace the boot. The boot on the inner joint can be torn for a long time before there is any damage to the joint.
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post #7 of 13 Old 06-26-2019, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by I need coffee View Post
Don't bother with the ball joint. Just remove the axle nut, make sure the axle is free from the wheel hub assembly, and then take out the 2 strut mount bolts from the steering knuckle. Be sure to take the brake line and wheel speed sensors out of their brackets so they don't get over-stretched (...you can use bungee cord to tie the knuckle to the coil, if necessary). Service manual recommends a slide hammer with a special attachment to break the outboard joint free, but you might be able to get it done by getting underneath the car and hammering on the back of the joint with a long punch (...hammer, rotate axle, hammer, rotate axle...). I don't think there's space to get a pry bar in there.
This.

I watched a few videos and it's still the same thing. However, if you're going to use a pry bar, have to have the car higher up and pry it from under.

If you're able to RENT/BORROW a slide hammer from a car parts store, please do go ahead for that. Thread slide hammer onto the axle and literally slide bang it off.

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post #8 of 13 Old 06-27-2019, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by CowBoE View Post
That's good to know that ball joint doesn't have to come off.
Now only remaining trick is getting the axle pulled out.
I'll have to get under the car and see what room I have.
I've seen videos where the slide hammer doesn't seem to reliably work.

Aside from the other suggestions in this thread, you can also try to use the CV axle itself as a "slide hammer" in that you can yank the heck out of it and see if it breaks free. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't....
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post #9 of 13 Old 06-27-2019, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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CV axle is coming today.
Gonna try to rent the slide hammer and possibly give it a shot this weekend if weather cooperates.

Thanks for the advice/encouragement.
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-27-2019, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by m4gician View Post
This.

I watched a few videos and it's still the same thing. However, if you're going to use a pry bar, have to have the car higher up and pry it from under.

If you're able to RENT/BORROW a slide hammer from a car parts store, please do go ahead for that. Thread slide hammer onto the axle and literally slide bang it off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KFabO3-1C8
Quote:
Originally Posted by I need coffee View Post
Aside from the other suggestions in this thread, you can also try to use the CV axle itself as a "slide hammer" in that you can yank the heck out of it and see if it breaks free. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't....
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Originally Posted by Wingman View Post
Have never replaced half shaft on 4 WD, However, have removed and reinstalled both axles on my son's vehicle and other vehicles for friends. Only once did I have to break the ball loose. Do not, I repeat, do use one of the cheap axles from China. If the boot has not been broken for a long time, best to remove the original axle, remove all the existing grease, clean and dry the joint, re-grease the joint and just replace the boot. The boot on the inner joint can be torn for a long time before there is any damage to the joint.
I think most after market parts are from China. I just bought the car with the inner boot torn and (fresh) grease around it, so I'm not sure how long it's been torn. I'm gonna save the original CV axle, and if the cheap replacement axle acts up later, I'll boot on new boot on the original axle. So I kind of have back up plan.
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post #11 of 13 Old 06-27-2019, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by CowBoE View Post
Is there a step-by-step DIY for 2010 Murano LE right front (AWD) CV axle replacement on this site?

I found some YouTube videos, but they are mostly for up to 2007 (first generation) Murano.

My inner boot is leaking grease and splattering everywhere.

Dealer quote $1400. (LOL)

I see the aftermarket part is only $90 to $120.
In the worst case, I'll find some local mechanic to do it,
but if I can get a good instruction, I should be able to do this.
Your dealer wants to replace the whole thing if they are quoting you $1400. It's because replacing the boot itself is a very messy job. My MO 2009 SL AWD passenger side CV boot was leaking too recently, the shop quoted me a lot, my brother who's a mechanic told me to get them to replace the boot in his words it's messy but it the cheapest path. It turns out the clip holding the boot to the axle fell off and need a new one needed to be installed, so the install one. lol

Look at it yourself, or get them to show you, if the clip is missing get a new clip put on unless you need a boot and lube job. Should be far less than $1400!

Thanks,
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post #12 of 13 Old 06-27-2019, 04:00 PM
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Autozone cv shafts would have given you lifetime replacement should the boot tears again. Anyway, simplest way to remove the right awd shaft is what ineedcoffee mentioned.

Basically: Jack up front end put on jack stand. Remove right tire. Remove awd sensor and brake hose clamp and caliper and hang both above with hanger wire (hook along the springs). Remove axle nut. (HF electric impact $40 works great here). Tap the axle end with hammer to loosen from the hub. Install axle nut flush to the end of axle end to avoid mushrooming. Get a pry bar and crawl under and place pry bar between the midshaft bracket support and the end of the cv housing. Keep turning and prying the shaft till it comes off. Does not require too much force when prying. Turning the axle is basically positioning the circular clip inside so that it will unlock easier-opposite end where you are prying. Remove the the big bolts holding the knuckle to the struts. Let the knuckle fall away towards you. This will give you enough room to remove shaft from hub. Once axle is removed clean all area sprayed with grease. Sometimes it may be easier to remove the heat shield there- held by 2-3 small bolts. Reinstall new shaft. Do the turning trick again to lock it in. Tapping with a hammer on the outer end helps. Tug/pull shaft out to make sure you locked it in correctly. Reinstall everything back. This method eliminates removing both ball joints. Although you can remove the steering - tie rod end ball joint to have more room.
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post #13 of 13 Old 07-08-2019, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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Front right CV axle is finally replaced...my gosh!

Many thanks to all that have replied with helpful comments. They all came handy.
Here are IMPORTANT updates for those that are interested in doing this.

Huge Mistake Made
I thought all 2010 LE models were AWD (All Wheel Drive), but it turned out mine was just FWD (Front Wheel Drive).
Hench, I ordered a wrong axle from online, so at a last minute, I had to go buy the only available rebuilt one from O'Reilly with lifetime warranty for $100.
The correct one has CV axle that is jointed to another axle (vs. one I wrongly ordered was just CV axle).

Difficulties
1. One of the bolts on the strut mount was wrong size (presumably when previous owner had after market struts replaced),
and the bolt was worn and became oval shape. So it took bunch of hard 3LB hammering to get it out. I still need to replace this.

2. As mentioned by someone above, the ball joint didn't need to come out, but the tie rod joint did.
2 joint remover from O'reilly rental didn't even fit. The 3rd one with adjustable 2 or 3 arm setup finally worked.
Once I had the right remover, it was easy to pop out the tie rod end.

3. CV axle was seized to the hub and took about thirty 3LB hammering and penetrating spray to get it to push out.
By then, the nut I left on the end of the CV shaft was smashed bit flat, and 32mm socket wouldn't even fit anymore.
So I had to rent a 34mm socket to remove this nut. Though I wasn't going to reuse this CV axle, keeping the nut on the
end did protect the threads even when the nut was smashed. (LOL).

4. Initially, when I didn't realize I need to replace 2 connected axle for this car, I was trying to remove just the outer CV axle.
Note that, there is no place to use slide hammer or pry bar if you just try to remove the outer axle. I think it's designed
for both connected axles to be replaced at once.

Not knowing, this I yanked on the CV axle dozens of times, which didn't work.
I then wrapped a heavy chain to the CV axle, and wrapped it to a 20LB dumbell on the other side to yank on it.
This remove the CV axle at the inner joint that is covered with grease. This left a inner housing still attached to the
inner axle. I then used vice grip tied to chain, and yanked on it with 20LB dumbell again, but vice grip eventually
came off. Tried this for couple of hours, and eventually called a local mobile mechanic.

Once the mechanic looked at car, he said, I need to replace with connected axles at the same time.
So we took off 2 bolts near the join of 2 axles, and after 10 minutes of pounding from under the car,
he was able to free the remain axle.

We then bought the correct axle from O'reilly and it took another 30 minutes of banging here and there
to get the bolt holes to line up correctly, and was finally installed.


Conclusion

This is definitely not for a novice mechanic work without properly lift to raise the car to provide more room to work.
The final CV removal and installation is not trivial, and really requires experience with lots of different prying tools.

The mechanic was my co-worker's friend, and he just wanted $100 for 2 hours of work to finish what I had started 4 days ago.
I told him that's too cheap. So I gave him $200, and I still felt like that was worth it.

He said, he could've done this in about 30 minutes to 1 hour at his shop with the lift and all the tools.
Next time, for such laborious work, I'm gonna take it to him.

Three good experience I got out of this journey are:
1. CV axle is finally fixed. Yeay.....
2. I now know my mechanic skill limits and still have much much to improve.
3. Found an awesome and honest mechanic who can rebuild engines, swap transmissions, and do complete car repair.
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