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I just purchased this 04 MO with 211K miles The other day I got it home parked at around 10 degree slope and when I went to start it the next morning it wouldn't start. It cranks just fine and every so often I can get it to attempt to start but it sputters and immediately dies within 1 second. I'm getting fuel, however maybe too much as I can smell the fumes after cranking. I'm assuming I have spark as it does fire up but dies. I just replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor thinking that would solve it to no avail and I have new camshaft sensors coming in a few days. Has anyone experienced this problem before and if so, what did you do to fix it?
 

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Some additional information, OBD2 codes P0011 Timing Advanced Bank 2,
P0123, P0223, P1121, P1122 All related to the TPS - These codes only generated as I was attempting to crank it over with pressing down the gas peddle. I'm assuming this caused those codes.
P1051 O2 Heater Circuit Sensor 1 Bank 2 ( Detached the wiring harness and cleaned it out, hoping that will fix that but wont know until I get it running again.
 

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I just purchased this 04 MO with 211K miles The other day I got it home parked at around 10 degree slope and when I went to start it the next morning it wouldn't start. It cranks just fine and every so often I can get it to attempt to start but it sputters and immediately dies within 1 second. I'm getting fuel, however maybe too much as I can smell the fumes after cranking. I'm assuming I have spark as it does fire up but dies. I just replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor thinking that would solve it to no avail and I have new camshaft sensors coming in a few days. Has anyone experienced this problem before and if so, what did you do to fix it?
Some additional information, OBD2 codes P0011 Timing Advanced Bank 2,
P0123, P0223, P1121, P1122 All related to the TPS - These codes only generated as I was attempting to crank it over with pressing down the gas peddle. I'm assuming this caused those codes.
P1051 O2 Heater Circuit Sensor 1 Bank 2 ( Detached the wiring harness and cleaned it out, hoping that will fix that but wont know until I get it running again.
P0011: Camshaft position (CMP), intake/left/front, bank 1 timing over -advanced/system performance

P0123: Throttle position (TP) sensor A/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor / switch A -high input

P0223: Throttle position (TP) sensor B/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor / switch B -high input

P1121: Electric Throttle Control Actuator

P1122: Electric Throttle Control Performance Problem

P1051: Air Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 2

Set aside all those codes for the time being. If the engine starts and sputters then that's a sign that the ignition coils and fuel injectors are working, which should rule out the crankshaft position sensor. Try spraying some starter fluid into the intake manifold and see if it helps get the engine started. If you can run the engine with starter fluid then go in the direction of troubleshooting a fuel delivery problem. The gas fumes you smelled were probably the engine getting flooded with gasoline after repeated cranking. Did you notice that depressing the accelerator pedal while cranking helped?

BTW, you said you "just purchased" the car--did the previous owner give you any history on it and did you notice any driveability issues (e.g. lack of power, rough idle, etc.)?

Good luck and let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
P0011: Camshaft position (CMP), intake/left/front, bank 1 timing over -advanced/system performance

P0123: Throttle position (TP) sensor A/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor / switch A -high input

P0223: Throttle position (TP) sensor B/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor / switch B -high input

P1121: Electric Throttle Control Actuator

P1122: Electric Throttle Control Performance Problem

P1051: Air Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 2

Set aside all those codes for the time being. If the engine starts and sputters then that's a sign that the ignition coils and fuel injectors are working, which should rule out the crankshaft position sensor. Try spraying some starter fluid into the intake manifold and see if it helps get the engine started. If you can run the engine with starter fluid then go in the direction of troubleshooting a fuel delivery problem. The gas fumes you smelled were probably the engine getting flooded with gasoline after repeated cranking. Did you notice that depressing the accelerator pedal while cranking helped?

BTW, you said you "just purchased" the car--did the previous owner give you any history on it and did you notice any driveability issues (e.g. lack of power, rough idle, etc.)?

Good luck and let us know what you find.
That's good to know that it's not a spark issue. If I press the accelerator when cranking I can get it to sputter for maybe an additional second some times. I noticed 2 wires came unfastened from the harness to the throttle body. Could this cause my no start issue?
 

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Maybe your MAF sensor (mass air flow) is unplugged? Are the unconnected wires on the throttle body, or the air intake duct? Have you tried plugging it back in?

A photo would help us.
 

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The MAF shouldn't keep it from starting, but to rule it out I did plug it in as well and still no start. I'm heading out to replace the wiring harness and try the starter fluid as mentioned. I'll let you know if anything new happens.
 

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You mentioned that you parked it on a 10 degree slope. Have you ruled that out as the cause?
 

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That's good to know that it's not a spark issue. If I press the accelerator when cranking I can get it to sputter for maybe an additional second some times. I noticed 2 wires came unfastened from the harness to the throttle body. Could this cause my no start issue?
Well, I guess that's why you have all those TPS codes. The PCM has a fail-safe mode for when the throttle actuator or TPS is malfunctioning (see pg 77 of the Engine Control section of the service manual) so I don't think it should cause a no-start. Nevertheless, even if this is a coincidence I would suggest trying to fix the disconnected wires (if possible) as it could complicate troubleshooting the no-start problem.

The MAF shouldn't keep it from starting, but to rule it out I did plug it in as well and still no start. I'm heading out to replace the wiring harness and try the starter fluid as mentioned. I'll let you know if anything new happens.
The engine will run with the MAF sensor unplugged in fail-safe mode (see above), but it might not if the MAF is plugged in and clogged/fouled/faulty or if there's an obstruction in the intake duct (...presumably, you've checked the intake tubing).

It appears you have access to a scan tool--does it read live data? If so, take a look at LTFT values for both cylinder banks and see if you find anything of note as this could tell you if the engine was running excessively rich or lean at idle prior to the no-start. For the 2nd generation Murano, running the engine while the MAF sensor is unplugged will reset the learned fuel trims (i.e. wipe out LTFT), but the engine is supposed to be at operating temperature during the reset process. I'm not sure if the procedure for the 1st generation is the same (...I couldn't find it in the service manual), but if it is, hopefully those values are still saved.

Do you have any history on the car and how was it running prior to this no-start episode?
 

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Update:
Well, I guess that's why you have all those TPS codes. The PCM has a fail-safe mode for when the throttle actuator or TPS is malfunctioning (see pg 77 of the Engine Control section of the service manual) so I don't think it should cause a no-start. Nevertheless, even if this is a coincidence I would suggest trying to fix the disconnected wires (if possible) as it could complicate troubleshooting the no-start problem.



The engine will run with the MAF sensor unplugged in fail-safe mode (see above), but it might not if the MAF is plugged in and clogged/fouled/faulty or if there's an obstruction in the intake duct (...presumably, you've checked the intake tubing).

It appears you have access to a scan tool--does it read live data? If so, take a look at LTFT values for both cylinder banks and see if you find anything of note as this could tell you if the engine was running excessively rich or lean at idle prior to the no-start. For the 2nd generation Murano, running the engine while the MAF sensor is unplugged will reset the learned fuel trims (i.e. wipe out LTFT), but the engine is supposed to be at operating temperature during the reset process. I'm not sure if the procedure for the 1st generation is the same (...I couldn't find it in the service manual), but if it is, hopefully those values are still saved.

Do you have any history on the car and how was it running prior to this no-start episode?
Update: after replacing the wiring harness to the throttle body I was able to get it to start up a bit longer and this time without the sputtering out. However the engine still died after about 3 seconds.
I use a Bluetooth obd2 scanner with the Torque app. I believe it provides live data. I'll investigate more today and provide another update.
Side Note: no service history provided by previous owner. After going through the owner's manual, I found the person whom u bought this MO from only had it a few months. As for drivability, no issues seemed to be present other then the MIL being illuminated with the p0011, p0300, and a rear O2 sensor heated circuit code.
 

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If you have someone that can help you, have them start the engine up while you spray short bursts of starter fluid into the intake manifold. If you can keep the engine running with short bursts of starter fluid then it's a fuel delivery problem--fuel pump and/or circuit. Keep us updated.
 

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If you have someone that can help you, have them start the engine up while you spray short bursts of starter fluid into the intake manifold. If you can keep the engine running with short bursts of starter fluid then it's a fuel delivery problem--fuel pump and/or circuit. Keep us updated.
Good news is that it's finally running but I think it's in limo mode as it will not go above 1000 RPMs. Below is all I've done to it since purchase and in order.
1) oil change, oil filter
2) new air filter
Note: after 1 and 2 is when my MO died and wouldn't start back up after it sitting overnight.
3) new VVT solenoid valves and housings both front and rear.
4) new spark plugs
5) new ckp and CPS(front and rear)
6) replaced wiring harness that attaches to throttle body.

I've saved all the obd codes currently in system and now will be resetting.
 

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Good news is that it's finally running but I think it's in limo mode as it will not go above 1000 RPMs. Below is all I've done to it since purchase and in order.
1) oil change, oil filter
2) new air filter
Note: after 1 and 2 is when my MO died and wouldn't start back up after it sitting overnight.
3) new VVT solenoid valves and housings both front and rear.
4) new spark plugs
5) new ckp and CPS(front and rear)
6) replaced wiring harness that attaches to throttle body.

I've saved all the obd codes currently in system and now will be resetting.
Just to be clear, you haven't done anything else since replacing the throttle body harness yesterday and getting the engine running for a few seconds with starter fluid and now it's actually running without stalling? Did clearing the codes get it out of fail-safe?
 

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Hey All,

Thank you for all of your input. I wanted to send a last update to this thread.

Original Issue: Engine Crank but No Start. Would sputter for a second maybe 2 then would die immediately.

Root Cause: Bad wiring harness to the throttle body. (2 wires came out and detached from the wiring harness).

Repair: Replaced the wiring harness and wired correctly. It started up right away. Wiring Schematics as followed: View as if harness was attached to throttle body.
Pin Assignment / Wire Control Description / Wire Size and Color
Pin 1 Top Left: Throttle Actuator Motor Open (Thick Black)
Pin 4 Top Right: Throttle Actuator Motor Closed (Thick White)
Pin 2 Middle Left: TPS Sensor 2 (Thin Red)
Pin 5 Middle Right:: TPS Ground (Thin Black)
Pin 3 Bottom Left: 5V TPS Supply Line (Thin Green)
Pin 6 Bottom Right: TPS Sensor 2 (Thin White)

Second set of issues was a user induced by incorrectly wiring the Throttle Body Harness so pay no attention.

I now have a different issue that's not associated with this thread so after a little research I'll start a new one
 
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