Nissan Murano Forum banner

21 - 40 of 85 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Tonight, Steve is coming back over. Going to pull the Murano out of the garage, clean up the engine bay and get all the grease and crap out of there. Swap over the tranny and get an idea how I want to approach getting the block back in. The more I look at the engine bay, the more I want to remove from it. If I have the engine back in by this Saturday I'll likely get the Cold air built if my guys have the 3" aluminum U-bends on hand.

I'll post an update later.

/brox
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,932 Posts
Think that what keeps me coming back is just the sheer magnitude of this project. I don't think anybody in the history of this forum has ever torn down a MO down to this level with this level of expertise and with the intent of putting it back together. Definitely a first as far as I'm concerned.

And the guy makes it look sooooooooo easy!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,402 Posts
There is lots of interesting info in this thread. Do I have a vote on making it into a sticky? If so, OP needs to come up with a new thread title (mods can change that)
Absolutely, go for it.

Perhaps the title could be changed to something like:

"05 Murano project: engine swap"

to make it more informative.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
If we want to change the title feel free to do so. If I have the ability to change it I will.

I didn't do anything to the car last night because I was being lazy and went to bed. I did get the rear exhaust manifold off and may have found the original issue with the car.



There's your problem right there.

The runner on the rear manifold had broken in half. It actually fell off while the rest stayed attached to the block. It is the cylinder that the dealer replaced the injector on, so my assumption is a lean condition fried the cast iron, probably had something to do with that cat breaking apart as well.

I'll actually work on it tonight. The wife will be home and I'll head out after the kid goes to bed and do tonight what I planned to do last night.

/brox
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,932 Posts
Wow...the original owner or the technician that worked on it should have noticed a louder exhaust note or at least the smell of exhaust fumes coming form the engine compartment.

Fantastic find!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,979 Posts
I gotta say - this is a project I might have tackled 20 years ago when I was in my 40's. At age 62, it's a bit more than I'd bite into...I have neither the time nor the desire to get this deep into one. (Although I wouldn't hesitate to do an engine swap on a standard classic vehicle with a front> rear mounted engine and RWD.)

My sincere congratulations on tackling this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,600 Posts
Hats off to the OP. :29: Hope it works out fine.

Definitely a huge undertaking. Something I don't want to be contemplating in attempting until I reach 200K + miles on my MO. Isn't it the reason we do all the preventive/over maintenance to avoid just this?

Good luck dude.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Hats off to the OP. :29: Hope it works out fine.

Definitely a huge undertaking. Something I don't want to be contemplating in attempting until I reach 200K + miles on my MO. Isn't it the reason we do all the preventive/over maintenance to avoid just this?

Good luck dude.
Thanks. And to answer your question, yes. The preventative maintenance will probably get you at least as far as the motor I had to pull out got to, 215K. I think given my knowledge of the previous owner who is one of my wife's very close friends, I consider the fact that it got to 215 a slight miracle in itself.

Tonight was spent cleaning. The explosion of the passenger axle had left some thick grease on the subframe and it has completely coated the inside of that wheel. I'll have to pull the wheel off and clean it separately this weekend.

So I wanted to show what the actual vehicle looked like instead of random shots of the engine bay.



This is what was given to me. Overall, it's quite clean inside except for a problem with the drivers seat. It has a missing piece of leather on the side, like someone did a skin graft and used the entire side of my seat as the donor. Regardless, the outside is dirty but should clean up fine.



Had to pull it out to start cleaning the gunk off the subframe.



Gunk on the subframe. It's a pretty old wound on the axle so the stuff is like glue at this point. It mocks any degreaser you throw at it, so I used an old standby. Fast Orange with a hard nylon brush. Not too worried about the paint in the engine bay so the abrasive quality of the Fast Orange was not a concern.



So I'm looking at the tranny. The motor I got came off a FWD, but of course I have an AWD tranny. The five red circles represent the bolts that go into the motor from the tranny side. The bottom bolts go motor side into the tranny. One issue is that the far right bolt is covered by the transmission/transfer case. I believe, and if I'm wrong and anyone knows, pipe up, that in place of this bolt is a connecting bracket.



This bracket. It looks like this bracket takes the load of that missing/covered bolt when an AWD tranny is used.

I did find a use for the broken exhaust part.



It makes a near perfect tire stop.

As of now, it's sitting out in the driveway, no motor, no hood, wires everywhere. I wanted it out of the garage so I could work on the motor and swapping the transmission which is my goal this weekend. I have to go pick up my KA24 motor from the machine shop in the morning, the wife is getting sick, and my daughter has been going ballistic the last 2 days, so if I get the tranny swapped this weekend, I'll consider it a victory. More to follow as events unfold.

/brox
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,979 Posts
There is very little one cannot do to a car if you get a shop manual, think things over, and are persistent and thorough. The question is often whether your available time and energy support the project.

I used to have lots of time and very little money - so I did all my own work. Today I find that occasionally i have more money and less time, so I turn it over to a shop more often. I can take an afternoon to change a wheel hub, but I can't take a week to change a major assembly. My 280ZX Turbo has been in the garage on jackstands for two months and I don't have the head off the darn thing yet.

If you have some time and any desire to learn mechanics, buy some tools and a shop manual, then just start. Do small jobs at first, and step it up as you go. The electronic stuff is increasingly difficult to do yourself, but the mechanical stuff like wheel hubs and brakes is just the same as it always has been.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
I don't have the shop manual. I'm winging it. It just a motor. It's not rocket sciencestry.

As I was swinging the car around to face the garage this afternoon, I ran over a connector on the driver side harness and smashed it. I also pulled another wire completely out of the harness. I have no idea what they go to but I'll fix it.

All I'm doing tonight is cleaning the garage so I can move both the motors around and swap the transmission tomorrow night. So nothing to really update, unless you want to see my bucket of oil soaked towels.

/brox
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,402 Posts
I don't have the shop manual. I'm winging it. It just a motor. It's not rocket sciencestry.

As I was swinging the car around to face the garage this afternoon, I ran over a connector on the driver side harness and smashed it. I also pulled another wire completely out of the harness. I have no idea what they go to but I'll fix it.

All I'm doing tonight is cleaning the garage so I can move both the motors around and swap the transmission tomorrow night. So nothing to really update, unless you want to see my bucket of oil soaked towels.

/brox
You can purchase the manual with a one day subscription to Nissan Tech Info (download it). I have a feeling all those connectors you broke off/ran over will come to be a pain in the butt later on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Steve stopped by again to help me pull the tranny off. Other than a bolt I missed on the transfer case it came right off. It wasn't a very exciting night and it's starting to get a little chilly here even in Texas, so there isn't much to see.

First thing was to remove the transfer case. I missed the bolt in the area around the motor mount. Steve found it and it fell right off. Then it immediately dropped all the fluid all over the floor. The focus of the night was actually spill containment as this fluid exodus was to occur several more times. Anyway, here is the transfer case.



It's incredibly small and light. Compared to a transfer case on something like a DSM, I bet it's 1/3 the weight if that. There were maybe 6-7 bolts holding it on in total.

And onto...



The transmission itself. Honestly, it's probably as heavy as the motor. The VQ motor is actually incredibly light. Two of us can move it quite comfortably and we are no he-men. The tranny dumped another considerable amount of fluid when it tipped over a bit but the real culprit of "Operation Tranny Fluid Clean Up" was...



This guy. The stall convertor probably dumped a full quart on the floor. Since the motor and transmission were basically on the ground when I separated them, there was nothing I could do. I should have drained it in advance but hindsight is whatever smart people do long before you think to do it. This picture was taken after I had already cleaned up the initial spill.

The stall convertor is held to the trigger plate/ring gear by 14mm nuts which you get at through an inspection port on the bottom of the motor. The big issue with these nuts is they are held on with eleventy billion pounds of torque. A breaker bar and hammer were no match. I'll have to fire up the compressor and knock them off with the impact tomorrow.

Other than that, we pulled off all the motor mounts, the PS pump, a few other odds and ends. Basically, all that I need off the old motor is the stall convertor. Once that's off, I'll get the other motor ready to go back in. Working on it only 2-3 hours a day has some disadvantages, but one advantage is that I don't get angry at it like I would if I was on it 10-12 hours in a row.

I ordered 6 quarts of Nissan NS-2 tranny fluid. I have no idea how much it actually needs or how to change it. My valve cover gaskets came in. I hope to have the motor back in the car by Friday and turn it over some time this weekend. That may be a stretch, but that's the plan.

/brox
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
I got a bunch done today in spite of my old motor trying to thwart my progress.

Last time we left I had separated the transmission and the old motor. The new motor did not come with either the flexplate or a torque converter, so those would have to be swapped. This seems like a simple task, but for one problem. Access.



This inspection hole is the only access to the 14mm nuts holding the torque converter to the flexplate. As noted yesterday, those nuts are really tight on there. I grabbed the impact and tried to get the first one off, only to round it completely off. This forced me to remove the oilpan to get better access at it.

Interesting, the oilpan is held on by about a dozen bolts, and 5 of those bolts are hidden inside the smaller pan which is attached to the main pan. So I literally had to remove the entire bottom of the motor.

So I did eventually get them off and swapped the plate and converter over.



So here we are as of now. I got new FelPro valve cover gaskets, bolted the VC's down. Replace the spark plugs, put the coils back on. I put the power steering pump back on and put the rear injector harness on. I put the new exhaust on to see how it would fit, see if the flanges would line up. It looks like it should fit fine and while the flanges are not exact, they should line up once I torque it down with gaskets.



Front of the motor looking pretty clean. You can see the merge collector goes under the tranny which I don't believe the stock one does, but I don't think it is going to hit anything. We'll see in a few days.



Here is the front header. The upper most circle is the bung for the upstream O2 sensor. The other circle is where I'll be welding on the second one.



Rear header. Circle marks where the new bung will be. Why they decided to tack weld the brand tag on the rear header, I have no idea.

So at this point I'm waiting on the tranny fluid. I can't put the transmission back on until I fill the torque converter. Essentially, every next step requires the tranny to be on, so the motor will hang there until my fluid come in.

/brox
 
21 - 40 of 85 Posts
Top