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Hey all, so I purchased a used 2007 Murano SL about 2 years ago with 148k miles on it. It now has about 174k and is burning oil fairly quick. My mechanic has recommended I sell the car sooner rather than later. About 2,000 miles after my last oil change I was low a quart and a half. Wondering if anyone has had a similar issue or any advice on what to do. Love my Murano but want to sell it soon while it has some value if the engine is close to going.
 

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I am in the same boat as you. Did you check the oil your self using the dipstick, or did you measure what came out when you did your oil change?

I am hesitant to sell mine because I figure if its one of the lucky ones to make it to 170k I could probably get it to 200k without too many issues. How much do you think you could sell yours for?
 

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Burning oil is one of those problems people have different approaches to.

Some of the new manufacturers will claim that consumption of up to one quart per 1000 miles is normal and acceptable. I don't agree, but it does indicate that consumption of a quart per 1000 miles is not a crisis.

When you use more than a quart per 1000 miles, it shows engine wear. However, oil is cheap and cars are expensive. As long as you don't mind checking oil with every other fill-up, you should be just fine by feeding it oil as needed. Chances are that you can get at least another couple of years out of that car with no problems. If you drive 10,000 miles a year and your oil costs $5 a quart, you'll spend $50-$60 on oil. No big deal.

Keep a log book in the car (you should do that anyway.) If oil consumption increases, you'll see it and can make a decision about when to get rid of it. My bet is that you can get another 20K miles of happy motoring.

Also, your driving style matters. If I drive my 1983 280ZX turbo hard (maybe in an autocross), I'll go through a quart of oil in 800 miles. If I take it easy, then it will go twice that far without needing oil.

If you don't want to feed it oil, or are looking for a reason to trade and get a new ride, then you have the excuse needed.
 

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I am in the same boat as you. Did you check the oil your self using the dipstick, or did you measure what came out when you did your oil change?

I am hesitant to sell mine because I figure if its one of the lucky ones to make it to 170k I could probably get it to 200k without too many issues. How much do you think you could sell yours for?
I actually found that I’ve had less issues from 170k to my current 245k miles, than I did prior to 170k miles. Once all of the common issues were fixed, everything else was/is still in tact, or it was replaced as expected/necessary.
 

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We bought our '04 SL AWD brand new and it now has 190K miles on the odometer. I've had to add a qt. of oil EVERY 1000 miles for the past 14 years! The engine sails through the rigorous annual MA State Inspections annually...with the hydrocarbon readouts at near zero! It doesn't smoke nor leave any oil puddles on the garage floor...so your guess is as good as mine as to WHERE that quart of oil is going! If I were you, I'd not even think about unloading your MO....just resign yourself to the fact that the engine oil will need to be topped off between oil changes. Besides, it's tough to find engines nowadays that have the timing chain vs. the timing belt that needs continual replacement!
 

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We bought our '04 SL AWD brand new and it now has 190K miles on the odometer. I've had to add a qt. of oil EVERY 1000 miles for the past 14 years! The engine sails through the rigorous annual MA State Inspections annually...with the hydrocarbon readouts at near zero! It doesn't smoke nor leave any oil puddles on the garage floor...so your guess is as good as mine as to WHERE that quart of oil is going! If I were you, I'd not even think about unloading your MO....just resign yourself to the fact that the engine oil will need to be topped off between oil changes. Besides, it's tough to find engines nowadays that have the timing chain vs. the timing belt that needs continual replacement!
One of the major causes of oil loss without seeing any issues (wet undercarriage, oil spots, blue smoke, etc) is a weak mechanical PCV valve.


The spring inside weakens over time and opens more then it should, causing excessive vacuum in the crankcase/valve train area, which tends to draw more oil with blowby gases, increasing oil consumption.


If someone coming in complaining of having to add oil all the time and not showing any obvious signs of oil loss we would change the PCV valve and 75% of the time, the issue would greatly decrease. Depending on the car, it's usually a less then $50 job, part and labor. Most wrench turners can change it themselves.


Yes, our 3.5's have a mechanical PCV valve. FSM EC-17 has location and replacement procedure. Even if it's a newer car with this issue, it is well worth the cost to replace it and more then likely will make a difference.


If the car had a electronic PCV system and is consuming oil, I would strongly suggest having the PCV system thoroughly checked, and possibly having that control module/switch replaced.


Note:


When replacing any part of the intake air system, the PCV is part of it, the engine control system should be reset so that the system can re-optimize itself for best fuel efficiency.


Hope this helps out.


One final observation:


Yes, oil is pretty cheap compared to replacing an engine (The extreme end!), but that oil is going somewhere! You know it and I know it that it's ending up in our environment uncontrolled! I believe in taking all measures to resolve an issue like this instead of "Just add oil!"


Have a good day.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had my mechanic check it and he told me I was about a q low and i had put half a q in the day before because I checked the dipstick and it seemed low to me. I think I could sell it for 4 or 5k if I get a few other things fixed...needs a new muffler and maybe some new right front rotors. But after reading the rest of these posts I'm considering riding it out. Although I know now is the time I can maximize the value if I decide to upgrade to a lower mileage car.
 

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Remember the dipstick is the WORST designed single object on the Nissan V6.

Check it only when the engine hasn't been run for some time (like first thing in the AM before you start it), or at the very least, leave a hot engine off for a minimum of 10 minutes before checking.

It takes for-freakin-EVER for the oil to run back into the crankcase in that engine.
 

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Your suggestions are greatly appreciated Paul. Looking back over my maintenance records, The PCV valve on our '04 was replaced back when the plugs were replaced at a little over 100K miles. Along with that, the camshaft position sensors and MAF sensor were also replaced at the same time but, unfortunately, the oil consumption problem did not improve.
 

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Your suggestions are greatly appreciated Paul. Looking back over my maintenance records, The PCV valve on our '04 was replaced back when the plugs were replaced at a little over 100K miles. Along with that, the camshaft position sensors and MAF sensor were also replaced at the same time but, unfortunately, the oil consumption problem did not improve.

If changing the PCV didn't make a difference in oil consumption, we would do the following to determine the root cause of the issue.


Next plug change, do a compression test on the cylinders. If testing is low, squirt a little oil in the cylinder and test again. If compression goes up, that might be the cause of your oil consumption.


If your compression is good, remove both valve covers and make sure ALL drain holes are fully open. A slow draining head will leave oil up around the valves, again causing oil consumption. If holes are clear, it might be worth it to change out the valve stem seals, even if you're not blowing blue smoking only when taking off from a light or after idling in the driveway after warmed up for a minute or two, a sure sign valve stem seals are leaking.


If these all pass the test, remove intake manifold vacuum hoses one at a time, looking for any signs of wet oil. A weeping oil leak in a vacuum diagram switch will cause oil consumption to go up.


If compression testing fails, I would recommend seriously considering retiring the car, unless you're willing to replace the engine.


If compression is good, I would recommend checking vacuum hoses for oil, and then go with valve cover removal and valve stem seal replacement.


Seeing it's summer, now's a good time to tackle a project like this if your a wrench turner. Fairly easy to do if you download the FSM from Nissan for your car and have basic tools.


Hope this helps you out.


Have a good day.
 

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Thanks again, Paul, for your additional suggestions to sort out this problem. You have now created my "To Do" list for the next few days!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey all, so I just spoke with my mechanic again and we determined i'm burning through about 1/2q of oil every 1,800 or 2,000 miles. He said normall consumption for a newer engine would be about 1/4q for that same mileage but told me I am definitely still burning more oil than normal even for a higher mileage vehicle. I'm going to switch over to 10W-30 for my next oil change but assuming this is not as big an issue as I had previously thought.
 

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I would have to agree with the mechanic..even though I haven’t seen your specific oil levels, I don’t doubt that what he is saying is accurate. Nissans, and specifically the 3.5Ls, are know to eat up more oil than other vehicles. I’ve heard theories upon theories over the years of why this happens and personally haven’t put too much thought into it myself (too many theories maybe?). Mine has been eating oil for the longest time and as long as it doesn’t have any leaks, I just monitor and fill, as needed.

With 245,000+ miles on my car currently, I don’t overthink it. I couldn’t even tell you how much oil my car takes every 1,000 or 3,000 miles. Sure it should be noted, or monitored, but I don’t lose sleep over it. Has been doing this for years and MANY, MANY miles on my vehicle. Just check for leaks/spills around and under the engine and monitor you oil levels at least once every other week. I’m not saying anyone is wrong why the oil “disappears” but with the many theories I’ve heard, no one has pin-pointed it to a specific cause... or where this oil actually goes. Regardless, I believe your engine and oil consumption is very normal on this engine, based on what your mechanic just told you.
 

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Hey all, so I just spoke with my mechanic again and we determined i'm burning through about 1/2q of oil every 1,800 or 2,000 miles. He said normall consumption for a newer engine would be about 1/4q for that same mileage but told me I am definitely still burning more oil than normal even for a higher mileage vehicle. I'm going to switch over to 10W-30 for my next oil change but assuming this is not as big an issue as I had previously thought.

I don't think you have an issue at all. That's a quart of oil every 3600-4000 miles, which is brand new car territory.
 

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After the car has 200K miles on it and it needs a quart every 1000 miles that's worth dealing with. The value of the car is almost nothing as a trade in or selling outright, just drive it until it costs more to fix it than it's worth then donate it to a local charity.
 

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After the car has 200K miles on it and it needs a quart every 1000 miles that's worth dealing with. The value of the car is almost nothing as a trade in or selling outright, just drive it until it costs more to fix it than it's worth then donate it to a local charity.

Exactly. I’ve held onto this car for a few years longer than I thought I would. Now I’m looking into purchasing a new car and still planning on keeping the Murano to use in the mountains and for whatever else a “larger” car is needed for. It’s worth more to me at this point than I could ever get for it.
 

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My Murano has been having a small oil leak from one of the valve covers, I had it tightened down but it looks like I will have to replace the valve cover gasket. Previously on scheduled oil changes it was never down more than a small amount. In January I began driving for Lyft and stupidly let the mileage go way over the recommended and it was more than two qts down at the oil change.

Aside from everything else that can typically go asunder, driving for Lyft really beats up one's car! I have gone from 1,000 miles per month to about 3,000.
 

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It's not the mileage, it's the driving conditions. Start/stop driving is hard on a car. The advantage you have in that scenario is that you're keeping the car well warmed up because you're not just driving for five minutes, then killing the engine.

All I can recommend is to keep the tires fully inflated, drive gently, keep all fluids checked often, and good luck!!
 
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