[Corske]

Car has few jerks happening randomly especially on highway speeds when the accelerator pedal is pressed, feels like losing power for a fraction of a second. At lower speeds like downtown driving you would think the car runs like new, no issues. I did try to slowly run over a taller curb just to see if the transmission slips but it didn’t.

No codes, no lights in the cluster. Revving the engine in N or P would not cause a jerk or losing power, it happens only in motion anywhere between 2k-3k rpms when accelerator pedal is pressed. I did switched to Sport mode and drove it in high rpm's on HWY and couldn't notice any issues.

7K miles ago replaced spark plugs and coils, replaced transfer case fluid, flushed the cvt fluid. I checked live data from OBD while the issues happening and couldn't find any drops in batt voltage it was constant 14.2V. Thinking about a mechanical issue since there are no codes. Any ideas ??

07 Murano S AWD

 

[MuranoSL2003]

Car has few jerks happening randomly especially on highway speeds when the accelerator pedal is pressed, feels like losing power for a fraction of a second. At lower speeds like downtown driving you would think the car runs like new, no issues. I did try to slowly run over a taller curb just to see if the transmission slips but it didn’t.

No codes, no lights in the cluster. Revving the engine in N or P would not cause a jerk or losing power, it happens only in motion anywhere between 2k-3k rpms when accelerator pedal is pressed. I did switched to Sport mode and drove it in high rpm's on HWY and couldn't notice any issues.

7K miles ago replaced spark plugs and coils, replaced transfer case fluid, flushed the cvt fluid. I checked live data from OBD while the issues happening and couldn't find any drops in batt voltage it was constant 14.2V. Thinking about a mechanical issue since there are no codes. Any ideas ??

07 Murano S AWD

Scan for CVT error codes. The Android app CVTz50 can read Nissan CVT error codes, many code scanners cannot:

CVTz50 - Apps on Google Play

CVT diagnostics with ELM327 for Nissan-based vehicles

play.google.com

 

[Corske]

Followed your advice,
under the CVT Information got this

I don’t understand at what point in time those codes were active tho...

under the CVT DTC section - got the following:

• U1000 CAN COMM CIRCUIT
• P0703 BRAKE SW/CIR - is this the brake pedal switch ?

 

[MuranoSL2003]

Followed your advice,
under the CVT Information got this
View attachment 55057
I don’t understand at what point in time those codes were active tho...

under the CVT DTC section - got the following:

• U1000 CAN COMM CIRCUIT
• P0703 BRAKE SW/CIR - is this the brake pedal switch ?

It mentions when the codes were stored, and it appears like they were from quite awhile ago...

Maybe try clearing the codes and see what comes back...

Also, just to be sure, have your alternator and battery load tested. They need to be in top condition to supply the stable electrical supply to the computer modules that control everything.

 

[Corske]

Alright did some testing today batt/alternator are ok. Took it for a spin, I noticed it has hard time going uphill, I took a short video while monitoring the CVT data and going uphill- so far this is the worst shaking I got as it was struggling to reach 35mph.
Here is the link: 07 Murano Shaking while going uphill - you can hear the shaking sound hehe

on flat roads runs just fine just rarely a random jerk.

It’s gotta be transmission or axles?

 

[MuranoSL2003]

Alright did some testing today batt/alternator are ok. Took it for a spin, I noticed it has hard time going uphill, I took a short video while monitoring the CVT data and going uphill- so far this is the worst shaking I got as it was struggling to reach 35mph.
Here is the link: 07 Murano Shaking while going uphill - you can hear the shaking sound hehe

on flat roads runs just fine just rarely a random jerk.

It’s gotta be transmission or axles?

That sounds like the CVT to me... Does it ever happen when accelerating strongly from a stop?

I would drop the pan and inspect for debris and clean the internal mesh filter. Consider replacing the external filter too.

However, based on the error codes, it could be a failing solenoid...

Driving with it acting up is probably doing additional damage if it's slipping due to low pressure or a bad solenoid...

There are forum members with CVT knowledge that may chime with a more informed analysis.

 

[Grav]

!!! Solution Found !!!

Replace your Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) with a Denso 196-4012 (OEM Supplier). That is the only aftermarket one I've found to work. There are sensors sold under different brands made by the same factory Denso sources from.

Those are stamped
--------------------------
A29-662 L41
SGI B002 1707A4
--------------------------
I've struggled with the same problem for 2 Years and tested and examined many (9) aftermarket CKP Sensors for my '06 SL V6 AWD and was able to determine that the ohms, resistance and signal frequencies were rejected by the Engine Control Module (ECM). This is so be cause the values are very specific for the ECMs in Nissan Vehicles to properly recognize the component.

Additionally, the silent failure of the CKP will not be detected with a basic OBD scan and you will not see a check engine light in many cases for it.

Below are Pics of the Denso CKP that works really well so far.

Below are Pics of a CKP Sensor sold to me on Amazon as a Nissan 23731-AL60E which failed in less that a year.

On a cool engine the Sensor Swap takes 5 mins with a 10mm socket and small ratchet to remove the small bolt securing it under the engine, near the front exhaust manifold.
Just squeeze the release tab to remove the connector socket from the old one.
Swap, clip tighten and you're done.

 

[MissAim]

I’m going through the same issues. I will order a Denso, swap it out and let y’all know how it went. Thank you all so much for this forum and all of the shared knowledge.

 

[I need coffee]

I’m going through the same issues. I will order a Denso, swap it out and let y’all know how it went. Thank you all so much for this forum and all of the shared knowledge.

Before you spend $100 on a new crank sensor, remove the rubber accordion duct that goes from the airbox to the throttle body and inspect it carefully for holes/cracks (bend it so you can see in the folds). The OP's complaint was jerking/hesitation under load at lower engine speeds (but not at higher engine speeds) and a vacuum leak is a more common cause for those symptoms than a bad crank sensor.

 

[MissAim]

Before you spend $100 on a new crank sensor, remove the rubber accordion duct that goes from the airbox to the throttle body and inspect it carefully for holes/cracks (bend it so you can see in the folds). The OP's complaint was jerking/hesitation under load at lower engine speeds (but not at higher engine speeds) and a vacuum leak is a more common cause for those symptoms than a bad crank sensor.

I will do this. Thank you. Rockauto has it at a pretty good price $70. I’ll check this shortly and get back tonight. I’m Pacific time.

 

[MissAim]

I will do this. Thank you. Rockauto has it at a pretty good price $70. I’ll check this shortly and get back tonight. I’m Pacific time.

I removed the accordion duct that sits/connected to the left of the air duct assembly. All is well.
As far as the price for the cam sensor. Either with Amazon or Rockauto it winds up being slightly less with Amazon as they offer free shipping. My part arrives Tuesday.

 

[PaulDay]

I removed the accordion duct that sits/connected to the left of the air duct assembly. All is well.
As far as the price for the cam sensor. Either with Amazon or Rockauto it winds up being slightly less with Amazon as they offer free shipping. My part arrives Tuesday.

If it's not an OEM part, then you have a high chance that the part will not function correctly in your Murano and resolve the issue.

Nissan is very finnicky when it comes to their electronic parts. You're getting the part cheaper because the manufacturer cut corners to make money on the part. Unfortunately, doing that always changes the electrical specifications that Nissan requires for the part to function properly with the rest of their electrical system.

My advice when dealing with ANY electrical device in a Nissan vehicle is to replace the part with OEM only, yup even the lowly spark plugs. I've always been able to find a Nissan dealer on the internet that has the part I need for 50 - 70% of their normal retail price.

The extra money spent is well worth it when you consider the gremlins that you can spend time chasing just because of a couple dollars. To me, Time is money, and I don't have enough of it as it is. I have other things to do in life then waste time because of a few bucks.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

[I need coffee]

I removed the accordion duct that sits/connected to the left of the air duct assembly. All is well.
As far as the price for the cam sensor. Either with Amazon or Rockauto it winds up being slightly less with Amazon as they offer free shipping. My part arrives Tuesday.

Agree with PaulDay. OEM sensor is ideal or at the very least purchase an aftermarket sensor from the manufacturer that makes the OEM version.

I also have to point out that the fix cited earlier in the thread was replacing the crankshaft position sensor, not the camshaft position sensor (of which there's two--one for each cylinder bank). Sadly, the OP never posted back to confirm what exactly fixed his/her problem.

 

[Diver]

!!! Solution Found !!!

Replace your Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) with a Denso 196-4012 (OEM Supplier). That is the only aftermarket one I've found to work. There are sensors sold under different brands made by the same factory Denso sources from.

Those are stamped
--------------------------
A29-662 L41
SGI B002 1707A4
--------------------------
I've struggled with the same problem for 2 Years and tested and examined many (9) aftermarket CKP Sensors for my '06 SL V6 AWD and was able to determine that the ohms, resistance and signal frequencies were rejected by the Engine Control Module (ECM). This is so be cause the values are very specific for the ECMs in Nissan Vehicles to properly recognize the component.

Additionally, the silent failure of the CKP will not be detected with a basic OBD scan and you will not see a check engine light in many cases for it.

Below are Pics of the Denso CKP that works really well so far.

Below are Pics of a CKP Sensor sold to me on Amazon as a Nissan 23731-AL60E which failed in less that a year.

On a cool engine the Sensor Swap takes 5 mins with a 10mm socket and small ratchet to remove the small bolt securing it under the engine, near the front exhaust manifold.
Just squeeze the release tab to remove the connector socket from the old one.
Swap, clip tighten and you're done.

This is what fixed the shake that corske had?
thanks

 

[MuranoSL2003]

It looks to me like the !!! Solution Found !!! reply is not related to the original post...

Unfortunately the person who started the thread dropped out without providing an update...

 

[Diver]

Yes i believe so

 

[sistermoon2500]

!!! Solution Found !!!

Replace your Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) with a Denso 196-4012 (OEM Supplier). That is the only aftermarket one I've found to work. There are sensors sold under different brands made by the same factory Denso sources from.

Those are stamped
--------------------------
A29-662 L41
SGI B002 1707A4
--------------------------
I've struggled with the same problem for 2 Years and tested and examined many (9) aftermarket CKP Sensors for my '06 SL V6 AWD and was able to determine that the ohms, resistance and signal frequencies were rejected by the Engine Control Module (ECM). This is so be cause the values are very specific for the ECMs in Nissan Vehicles to properly recognize the component.

Additionally, the silent failure of the CKP will not be detected with a basic OBD scan and you will not see a check engine light in many cases for it.

Below are Pics of the Denso CKP that works really well so far.

Below are Pics of a CKP Sensor sold to me on Amazon as a Nissan 23731-AL60E which failed in less that a year.

On a cool engine the Sensor Swap takes 5 mins with a 10mm socket and small ratchet to remove the small bolt securing it under the engine, near the front exhaust manifold.
Just squeeze the release tab to remove the connector socket from the old one.
Swap, clip tighten and you're done.

can u take a pic of where are they placed? Thx