Today my Murano rolled over to 100,000 kilometers (approximately 62,000 miles). It has taken me just 26 months to reach this. Despite some of the less fortunate ones who have had various service issues, I have only had a sun visor clip replaced, and I now have a minor problem with my fuel door release. Other than an ongoing slight rattle from under the vehicle, attributed to the emergency brake cable slapping around a bit when it is stretched, thats all I have ever had to deal with, period! Castrol Full Synthetic Oil every 15,000 km, and otherwise just the minimum required maintenance and I'm good to go ang go and go some more. Considering my last vehicle, a 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada AWD, ended up as a forced GM buy back after I put about 60,000 frustrating kilometers on it, I would say I am extremely pleased. Aside from new eyes, and new shoes on order, the Mo got a good wash, clay bar cleaning, carnauba hand waxing and interior detailing to celebrate her milestone:roadtrip:
100,000 club
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Won't see 100 grand on our murano either it's going bye bye in 3 weeks as our new glacier pearl SE rolls into town. wooohoooo can't wait. come to think of we won't even see 50 grand. geee it's as if we only drive it to 7-eleven and back haha.
I do about 50k per year on average, so the choice for me is either driving a beater (which I am way beyond), or driving something nice, and running it for about 200k. This means way too much mileage to make leasing practical. So every four years I get a new vehicle, and since the time span is relatively short the vehicles I sell still look great, so resale is usually quite good if you make the proper selection in the first place. That way I get hit for depreciation minimally, as my cost per km of running the vehicle is quite reasonable. You would be suprised how much you can get for a four year old excellent condition SUV even with this kind of mileage. In many cases, it is the only way someone in a lower purchasing bracket can afford one of these expensive looking vehicles.:4:
Enjoy your Glacier Pearl SE nissanlove, deep down I wish I could get a new vehicle every year or two myself:29:
Enjoy your Glacier Pearl SE nissanlove, deep down I wish I could get a new vehicle every year or two myself:29:
Katzkin Interior
No problem pcs15394, I bought mine off eBay, probably a very rare find. The colour is a little shocking, but is very close to the original OEM leather for this model year, and still used in the 350Z. If I had my choice, I probably would have ordered a two-tone, and perhaps a slightly different shade. Sometimes I feel like I'm riding inside a pumpkin, but it does match the instrument cluster almost perfect and I have gotten used to it.
Katzkin can be found here, simply search for Murano Interiors. The quality is very good, apparently they are the aftermarket leaders. My kit was full leather, not half vinyl like perhaps even the OEM is?? I do believe they offer both types in different price categories, according to my installer, whom I paid cash to complete the job in one day. I even have the original cloth interior, intact, which I can either re-install any time if I want, or sell off to recoup some of my investment to someone who has perhaps damaged their interior.
Cheers!
No problem pcs15394, I bought mine off eBay, probably a very rare find. The colour is a little shocking, but is very close to the original OEM leather for this model year, and still used in the 350Z. If I had my choice, I probably would have ordered a two-tone, and perhaps a slightly different shade. Sometimes I feel like I'm riding inside a pumpkin, but it does match the instrument cluster almost perfect and I have gotten used to it.
Katzkin can be found here, simply search for Murano Interiors. The quality is very good, apparently they are the aftermarket leaders. My kit was full leather, not half vinyl like perhaps even the OEM is?? I do believe they offer both types in different price categories, according to my installer, whom I paid cash to complete the job in one day. I even have the original cloth interior, intact, which I can either re-install any time if I want, or sell off to recoup some of my investment to someone who has perhaps damaged their interior.
Cheers!
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I'll be hitting 100,000km in about 2 weeks (28 months total). My only problems have been a loose passenger seat (some bolts kept coming out, loktite fixed that), exterior rattle (loose emergency cable?) and my cd player died.
Oh, and lots of scratches/chips I have to get fixed.
Oh, and lots of scratches/chips I have to get fixed.
Congrats on (almost) 100,000 Tyler! (Hopefully I did not jinx you now). Next time you hear the rattle, gently apply pressure to the parking brake while driving, but not enough to engage it at all. You will likely hear the rattle go away. It seems more prevalant in warmer weather, so I and the dealer always assume it stretches a bit.
Maybe the Canadians got better alternators:4:
Maybe the Canadians got better alternators:4:
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1,422 Posts
Thanks for the tip about the emergency brake cable. I use it every time I park, so it's probably getting loose from use too. And when it's warmer, it will make sense that it expands a bit.
Congrats, hope it continues for many more.
We've just got 7000Ks, however have a 1200K hike coming up in 3 weeks Tabuk to Riyadh - one way change of job within company.
Bit concerned after reading the issues about long journeys and also the temperature will be well above 100 all the way. Additionally, will be doing it in one go, apart for the obvious fuel stops etc about 12 hrs approx.
We've just got 7000Ks, however have a 1200K hike coming up in 3 weeks Tabuk to Riyadh - one way change of job within company.
Bit concerned after reading the issues about long journeys and also the temperature will be well above 100 all the way. Additionally, will be doing it in one go, apart for the obvious fuel stops etc about 12 hrs approx.
Mo In To
Thanks for the info. I checked the Katzkin web site and there is an authorized installer a couple of miles for my home. This may be something I check into as I get tired of the constant shocks from my cloth interior. I still get shocked even though it is summer and the Humidity level must be @ %70.
Thanks for the info. I checked the Katzkin web site and there is an authorized installer a couple of miles for my home. This may be something I check into as I get tired of the constant shocks from my cloth interior. I still get shocked even though it is summer and the Humidity level must be @ %70.
This is for Mo in TO. I purchased my Mo last September and its about to turn 48,000k. My question to you is have you noticed any difference in performance from the CVT and did you get it serviced at the specified time which according to the maintainence manual is 46,000 k I understand that the transmission fluid change on a Mo is pretty expensive.
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Actually the manual states that you change the fluid at 100,000 km under extreme use (which is what the majority of car owners fall under, go figure). Just to be on the safe side, I change mine at 75,000km. It costs a bit less than $300.davers said:
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Yup, my noise is definately the brake cable... now I'm going to have to pay to have them adjust it, since it's outside the initial free adjustment period. Maybe I should figure out how to do this myself.jaak said:
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4,601 Posts
I've been thinking the same...
PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM
On-Vehicle Service
PEDAL STROKE
When parking brake pedal is operated with a force of 196 N (20 kg, 44 lb), make sure the stroke is within
the specified number of notches. (Check it by listening and counting the ratchet clicks.)
INSPECT COMPONENTS
Make sure the components are attached properly (check for looseness, backlash, etc.).
Check parking brake pedal assembly for bend, damage and cracks, and replace if necessary.
Check cable for wear and damage, and replace if necessary.
Check parking brake warning lamp switch for malfunction, and replace if necessary.
ADJUSTMENT
To perform adjustment operations, remove tire from the vehicle with power tool.
1. Insert a deep socket wrench to rotate adjusting nut and loosen
the cable sufficiently. Then, return the pedal to the free height.
2. Using wheel nuts, fix the disc to the hub and prevent it from tilting.
3. Remove adjusting hole plug installed on the disc rotor. Using a
screwdriver, turn the adjuster as shown in the figure until the
disc rotor is locked. After locking, turn the adjuster in the opposite
direction by 5 or 6 notches.
4. Rotate the disc rotor to make sure there is no drag. Install the
adjusting hole plug.
5. Adjust cable as follows:
a. Operate pedal 10 or more times with a force of 294 N (30 kg, 66
lb).
b. Rotate adjusting nut with deep socket to adjust pedal stroke.
NOTE:
Do not reuse the adjusting nut after removing it.
c. When parking brake pedal is operated with a force of 196 N (20 kg, 44 lb), make sure the stroke is within
the specified number of notches. (Check it by listening and counting the ratchet clicks.)
d. With the pedal completely returned, make sure there is no drag on the rear brake.
Pedal stroke : 3 to 4 notches
Pedal stroke : 3 to 4 notches
PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM
On-Vehicle Service
PEDAL STROKE
When parking brake pedal is operated with a force of 196 N (20 kg, 44 lb), make sure the stroke is within
the specified number of notches. (Check it by listening and counting the ratchet clicks.)
INSPECT COMPONENTS
Make sure the components are attached properly (check for looseness, backlash, etc.).
Check parking brake pedal assembly for bend, damage and cracks, and replace if necessary.
Check cable for wear and damage, and replace if necessary.
Check parking brake warning lamp switch for malfunction, and replace if necessary.
ADJUSTMENT
To perform adjustment operations, remove tire from the vehicle with power tool.
1. Insert a deep socket wrench to rotate adjusting nut and loosen
the cable sufficiently. Then, return the pedal to the free height.
2. Using wheel nuts, fix the disc to the hub and prevent it from tilting.
3. Remove adjusting hole plug installed on the disc rotor. Using a
screwdriver, turn the adjuster as shown in the figure until the
disc rotor is locked. After locking, turn the adjuster in the opposite
direction by 5 or 6 notches.
4. Rotate the disc rotor to make sure there is no drag. Install the
adjusting hole plug.
5. Adjust cable as follows:
a. Operate pedal 10 or more times with a force of 294 N (30 kg, 66
lb).
b. Rotate adjusting nut with deep socket to adjust pedal stroke.
NOTE:
Do not reuse the adjusting nut after removing it.
c. When parking brake pedal is operated with a force of 196 N (20 kg, 44 lb), make sure the stroke is within
the specified number of notches. (Check it by listening and counting the ratchet clicks.)
d. With the pedal completely returned, make sure there is no drag on the rear brake.
Pedal stroke : 3 to 4 notches
Pedal stroke : 3 to 4 notches
Attachments
The service guide has three levels of maintenance. The most comprehensive is the 'preferred maintenance', if you have lots of extra cash and want the very best. Next is 'schedule 1', then 'schedule 2'. The preferred says to replace the CVT fluid at 48,000 km, but schedule 1 and 2 says replace the fluid if towing a trailer, using a camper or car-top carrier, or driving on rough or muddy roads at 96,000 km. I changed mine at about 50,000 km because I intend to keep my MO until 200k, and I will probably now wait until about 125k before I change it again. Like Tyler said, not too much for peace of mind.
Downtown Toronto Nissan tried twice with mine, they even claimed to have tried a slight mod they developed themselves. It still slaps around at times, and seems to hit against something that creates the noise. If anyone solves this, please let me know.
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4,601 Posts
The first time they adjusted it for me, it worked perfectly with no noise.
The last time, it didn't seem to fix anything. That's also the same time that they told me the mild driveline clunking I heard was brake pad adjustment.
It's tough to find competent service advisors, it seems. The last one I had was fabulous, but he's no longer at that dealer, and the current one is useless to the point where I'm considering switching dealers again.
The last time, it didn't seem to fix anything. That's also the same time that they told me the mild driveline clunking I heard was brake pad adjustment.
It's tough to find competent service advisors, it seems. The last one I had was fabulous, but he's no longer at that dealer, and the current one is useless to the point where I'm considering switching dealers again.
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