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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the middle of changing my front left bearing/hub but noticed the outer CV joint is a little loose and sloppy. Probably the real cause of the noise that I thought was the bearing, (the tire place told me the bearing was bad too). Anyway, before putting in the new bearing I am going to change the CV/axle assembly as long as I have it apart. I have a few questions:

Any tips on prying the old axle out? And inserting the new one?

Can someone tell me if I really need to drain any CVT fluid before prying the axle out? I thought I read something somewhere about cross flow of fluids and causing a TC leak???

Any tips on replacing the inner seal? I don't have special tools, is it too hard to just tap in?

Thanks for this forum, helped a lot so far on the bearing.
 

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Im not sure if your axle needs replacing or not since im not there to check it for myself but if you want to change the seal on the transmission for the driver's side axle then you do not need to drain anything or worry about cross contaminating any fluids, thats only on the AWD passenger side axle seal.

I work in norcal so we don't see that much, if at all, rusty axles so you may have to do your own thinking but basically once you remove the cotter pin and axle nut, get a large dead blow hammer or a large hammer with a block of wood and smack the axle through towards the trans. It should move a couple inches inside the hub but not completely through until you unblot the lower balljoint pinch bolt and pull the ball joint out. Then just have a helper pull the whole rotor/hub assembly outwards while you pull the axle joint out, you may need a little prybar or scredriver to help.

Replacing the seal is pretty simple but its kinda akward in there with the strut and suspension in the way. Maybe pick up a spare seal in case you jack the first one up, i sometimes do that lol. Just tap it in there little by little with a good hammer, starting one side in and tapping the other side in helps too.

Some fluid will drain out, no worries. Just top off the fluid when your done, depending on how bad your leak is you may just need one quart.
 

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Izzy,

Do you ever use the bearing and race seal driver tool to install the new axle seal into the tranny? Or just slow hammer tapping in would work? I am about to do this job and inclining to use the bearing and race seal driver tool. What do you suggest?
 

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Um well we do have a special tool meant for this seal, its just a plastic seal driver but its so short that i prefer to just use my fingers an a hammer, just hammer it in a circular pattern. Its a little stubborn so use caution, especially with cvt fluid still dripping out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I already have the bearing hub removed, do you think I will have to drop the ball joint to remove the axle?

Also, I really haven;t seen any leak, some film coating the tranny below the inner CV joint but I was thinking it would be good to replace the seal while I'm at it, what do you think?
 

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Well...the new axle looked a little different, it was missing the rubber "donut" thing clamped in the middle of the axle (not sure what it is for). And the inner CV joint felt a little loose, no different than the old one so I decided to leave the old one on and just finish the bearing job.

The bearing alone fixed it, apparently the axle was ok and the bearing was bad. So I learned a couple things that I thought I would share. First, a bad bearing may not actually feel bad when turning it by hand. Second, a slight "looseness" on a CV joint when the axle is not assembled doesn't necessarily equal a bad axle.
 

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Yeah if its not really leaking i wouldn't have worried about it either.

And yeah that little donut in the middle is just a harmonics absorber. I've not really seen a bad murano axle yet, unless they're making clanking noise from dried torn c/v boots i wouldn't worry about replacing them.
 

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We just bought an 07 pre-owned (non-CPO) Murano and the day after I found out that the drivers side front boot was torn. I called the local dealership and they agreed to replace the entire shaft under the powertrain warranty.

I had been checking this thread in the instance that I had to replace it myself. I think NAPA has these shafts as well for very reasonable prices.
 

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I replaced the passenger side axle last year due to torn boot. I bought one at partsgeek.com it was like $90 with shipping.... jyi.
I had 06 S awd. works great now.
Part #: W0133-1725634 Qty: 1 2006 Nissan Murano Axle Assembly
Did you remember to drain and refill your transfercase with fresh fluid once the new axle was installed? The passenger side axle mates with an internal seal inside the transfercase that keeps cvt fluid on the tranny side and gear oil on the tcase side. When you remove that axle, it cross contaminates the fluids.
 

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I just replace the left axle seal of my MO today. It was the second part of the repair job of replacing the left and right lower control arms.

Since the ball joint is out already I removed the screw of the steering outer rod and pop that out by hitting the knuckle where the rod sits. A few mild hits with a 3 lb sledge hammer worked.

I am lucky that my wheel hub has hardly any rust in them. Couple hits with a hammer and a piece of wood on the axle it came loose easily.

Pushing away the knuckle to get the axle out of the hub just needs a little force and came out no sweat.

I used a small pry bar to pop out the axle from the cvt. I positioned it on the top left corner of the cv housing. Took 3 pulls and it came off. Fairly easy.

It drained out about 1 quart and 445 ml. of NS2 fluid. I was concerned with the color of the cvt fluid that drained out---it was amber --like motor oil. I would probably do a drain and refill soon or when I do my spark plugs at 105k.

I took my time putting the new seal in. Tried the homemade seal driver I made with a 2 inch pvc pipe with a cap on one end. Only works when the entire seal is riding on the hole. Used it for the final tap in. Turbizzy was right. The best way to ride the seal into the hole is to use your finger and a hammer and do it slowly. Tapping around little by little and across works and don't rush it.

Sitting the axle to the tranny......after some in and out trial making sure its in line with the splines, I hang the middle part of the axle with a string so its almost level to the tranny. Then, with the axle straight, I hit the outer end of the axle with a hammer. It took several mild hits to drive it all the way in. Pulled on the axle cv housing to make sure clip is locked in again.

Then its just a matter of putting everything back. Test drove it and so far no leak. The MO seems to ride better now. Maybe its just a placebo...After all the work.

I had some problem with the new left lower control arm ball joint. It won't slide in as easily as the right one. I had to hammer in hard and wedge an old flat screw driver at the knuckle slit to open up the hole a little. Hammered the bottom of the arm up with a 3 lb sledge and wood finally did the job. Got frustrated there for a while. I guess thats what you get with after market parts. Coulda sworn that ball joint was just a little fatter than it should be. But all is good and installed properly. My MO is happy again!:D


The last pix of the new seal inside needed a final tap in to flush with the cvt. I used the seal driver I made to do that. I was randomly taking pix and forgetting some..oh well.
 

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Hi, I'm going to replace the awd passenger side axle off of my 2006 and I was wondering if anyone had any pics?
Do you have a cv boot torn or busted cv joint or is it the passenger side axle seal thats leaking? Get a copy of the service manual posted somewhere in the maintenance section. You have to deal with the TC in this repair.
 

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Hi, my cv boot is torn. It's really dry so I would have to replace the axle. I purchased an axle. When the old axle comes out. Why would it leak there is a female end to it?
 

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I don't remember the part number but you should be able to call Nissan and pick one up for cheap. I believe I paid around $12 for mine and used a $0.98 pvc piece from Home Depot to punch it in nice and flush.... That's if you are in the US of coarse.
 

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The Passenger side CV Axle is a two part axle. Do this one way you won't have fluid cross contamination. Do it the other way you will. Remove the brake caliber and tie it up and out of the way with bungie cords, sting or rope. Remove the lower ball joint as you would do on the drivers side. Remove the axle nut. Tap axle through wheel hub as you swing the hub assembly out of the way enough to get the axle out. Here's where it will determine if your going to have the cross contamination of tranny and transfer case fluids or not. Past the second axle boot you will see three 10mm bolts that appear to be holding the axel shaft from coming out. DO NOT REMOVE THOSE unless you are actually replacing the inner axel too. (99% sure you will not be replacing this. almost all will be actually replacing with a half shaft. keep reading) The forementioned three 10mm bolt hold the inner shaft in the CVT and transfer case. Remove them and the entire axle and inner axle will easily come out AND CROSS CONTAMINATION OF FLUIDS WILL HAPPEN. To remove just the half shaft you just need to pry the end of the shaft with a pry bar or large screw driver apart from the inner shaft. It is held together with the same snap ring as the drivers side axel is. It might take a small amount of force to separate the two but you can easily do it. You will be heavily tempted to take the three 10mm bolts out to remove the axle and trust me it will basically all just fall out by it's self too if you do. KEEP IN MIND IF YOU DO REMOVE THE 10MM BOLTS you will have cross contamination of both transfer case and CVT fluids. You will have to drain the transfer case completely and refill with fresh 80 W90 gear oil and will need to add CVT fluid to proper level when finished. PLUS you most likely will need to replace the oil seal now as well because it is now exposed and disturbed. I recently learned this myself by removing the three 10mm bolts. The job was very much easier until I had to replace the oil seal that only NISSAN carried for $35. Then the transfer case oil refill fiasco was lovely! Then I did a CVT fluid drain and fill that you need to win the lottery in order to be able to afford!


So if anyone reads this looking for information on passenger side CV Axle replacement. Your much better off not to remove the three 10mm bolt past the second cv boot. Separate the shaft there just like removing the drivers side axle. You will thank me later if you follow this advise.
 

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Thanks for the advice on the 3 bolts, mine is not leaking on the passenger side and the seal was replaced in 2012, the driver's side was replaced 3 months ago and was still leaking and I replaced it again.
I then replaced the CVT fluid and I drained the TC but I used a glass measuring cup to measure the amount of oil that was in it and only got 100ml and it took 310ml to fill it up, that is bad news.
I would really like to see how the TC seal on the CVT side looks like because I'm pretty sure that is where it is leaking from.
 
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