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2006 Nissan Murano AWD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,hope you are all well.
I need some advice.
I bought the Mo few weeks ago but have an issue that the car will not engage to D or R,the engine however make the different revs as is about to go in to "gear" when put in D or R
plug the scanner in and got the two codes on transmission
P0720 Output Speed Sensor
P0746 PC Solenoid A (tried another scanner then it says something about stuck)

What I did :
Replaced the Output speed sensor with oem
check the plug and circuit,test it with multimeter as the manual recommends.
cleared error codes and still got the P0720

I have also checked the battery and alternator
unplug the battery for more then 24hours
got both error codes
 

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2006 Nissan Murano AWD
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If the transmission won't engage then it's more likely related to the line pressure DTC. Was it doing this when you bought the car or did it start shortly thereafter? Either way, that kind of symptom with that code often means you need a new transmission (or valve body).
I bought the car like this,the previous owner said the car just went if there is no power like if it was a lower gear and when he turned off the car and back on it wont go in to drive,like is in neutral..
 

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2006 Nissan Murano AWD
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I have seen a few guys posting issues that they got with the Murano, but never came back if its resolved or not with certain error codes they received from OBD scanners.
Well today I decided to drain the oil and drop the pan and surprised surprised. The CVT belt have snapped:cry:
Now it does make sense of the P0746 error, there is no oil pressure because the belt is snapped.
P0720 output sensor error, it does make sense because the belt is snapped and pulleys are not driven.
attached is photo of the pan.
the other photos will follow
53768
 

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2006 Nissan Murano AWD
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I clear out the hole where the pieces of belt were at the pulleys, I don't see any other damage, I just wonder why something like this will happen, anyway enjoy the photos,so from now on if that two error codes appear your belt got snapped.
I am thinking of remove the transmission and replaced or repair.
53772
53773
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm no expert, but I would say your CVT is most likely damaged beyond repair...

I don't think it is as simple as replacing the belt (if you can even get one.) I would imagine further damage occurred when that thing came apart, at the very least there's probably unrepairable scoring where the belt contacts...
I will phone around next week and ask qoutes,here in SA are a few places that do repair or exchange your transmission and pay in,I am still looking forward to give life to this vehicle.
:rolleyes:
 

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2006 Nissan Murano AWD
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Post update :

So I import a new CVT belt,where waiting like 2 months for it (longest freaking 2 months)
I also ordered 12 lt ( 12lt = 12,6803 quarts) of Nissan NS-2 from local dealer.
my question is,is it possible to remove the variable pulley side without removing the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I don't think so, but can't be certain. The input shaft goes all the way through and splines in with the primary pulley. I've never seen a CVT disassembly video that just removed the variator assembly only--in fact, that's usually the last thing taken apart. It sounds like you're going to try and change the belt yourself? Let us know how it works out.
I will defnitely do update on the post and some photos,it will maked it easier for the next murano newbie.
I have seen a video from a guy that took the variator side apart without splitting the entire transmission from a 2010 nissan rogue,but it does make sense to remove the valve body first before opening the variator side.
If it does not worked out then I will remove the entire transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It would not be easy to do, (remove just the variator case in car) and the main problem is you are going to have to pretty much go through the same horrible work to get to that point as you would to remove the whole transmission. Also things to consider, how much metal went through the transmission during all that? And what other things could be damaged from it?
Remember the valve body needs to come off first before the variators do, because of the ratio control lever engagement. I just saw that you mentioned that. Yes keep us updated.
Oh and idemitsu type N for NS-2 fluid is Nissan fluid.
Thanx, It will be this upcoming weekend.
I just hope the pulleys are not damaged,to savage parts in south africa is the same as looking for chicken teeth.
I would like to bought the complete variator unit with the belt,but the shipping is too expensive on ebay,some shipping fees are more expensive then the complete unit,anyways will keep you guys posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Redline, one of the main causes of the belt to fail, is the steel guide balls that key the sliding pulley to the shaft. Depending on how many miles and how the car is driven the constant torque on those balls that are only contacting an infinite point on their little tiny radius, they put divots in the grooves on the shaft and maybe the sliding collar as well, then they stick and get torn and cracked when those divots get deep enough to hold them, when the balls get destroyed they essentially lock the sliding action of the pulley and then that rips the belt apart. This mostly happens to the primary pulley. If it didn't cause too much destruction and the grooves are not too messed up, there is a pin kit, it has hard steel pins to replace the balls, and some times can salvage slightly messed up grooves. In a pinch you can use the ends of 6mm cobalt drill bits. There are some youtube videos on that topic. To take the pulleys apart the big nuts are your first battle, impact wrench is likely the only way, a nice large harbor freight puller will work to separate the pulleys.
If you need more info I can get some links. Have fun, it took me 1 week to get the transmission out of a 2004, some long and some short days. The ultra tight fasteners were horrible, and the rusty exhaust fasteners. You do not need to remove the exhaust manifold, just the cat its a battle of rust use liquid wrench. I used a gantry crane with 2 chain hoists one to support the engine and one to support and lower the transaxle, I used harbor freight straps to lift with and 2 around the engine coolant manifold above the transmission to hold the engine have to lower both at the same time when tilting the trans down. I did not have to drain the coolant.
Do not follow everyone on youtube, I leave the brake calipers on and just remove from the lower ball joint. For the shift cable leave it in the bracket remove the 2 bolts, and remove the lever nut, then you won't have to fool with adjustments. If you are just tipping the transmission down to get to the vairators you won't need to fool with the shift cable. But you will need to drop the subframe, remove the front and rear mounts, and the 2 bolts that hold the steering rack, you don't need to disconnect the power steering lines etc. it will help to have 2 floor jacks to lower the subframe. Keep us posted.
Wow! very well explained! thank you so much!!
I have read somewhere that the main cause that the belt usually snapped is that 6mm balls on the primary pulley that wear out,the steel pins sounds like a better upgrade,I will most likely need to import it as it will not be available in South Africa,but let me remove everything and so I will let you know.
Thanx for your help I do Appreciate,cant wait to give life to this car again,I have never driven one.:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
While I am typing my arms and hands are so stiff!
This is not an easy job to do😔
But I am not done yet,the hardest part of this was the side shaft nuts in the front,I actually breaked my powerbar,got a second one and I twist it.
The impact also did not worked.
I have been battling for hours.
I phoned a friend and he came to help and welded the 32 socket to a piece of solid steel bar that came of some pickup truck,and it worked!! Woohooo.
So most of the bolts and nuts are all loosen,I actually took a photo that I will attached.
Today I just loosen the break callibers and removed the battery tray so I could have more space to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I need to go in town tommorow morning for work and some exstra sockets,then I will remove the nuts from the torque converter and the rest of the bolts on the transmission...(P.S excuse my spelling,my 1st Language is Afrikaans)
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
There is no need to do a thing with the brake calipers. Leave all that spindle junk hanging on the shock strut. Just use a strap or rope to pull it either front or rear out of the way. All that stuff is unnecessary work do. If you have the right side stub cv axle drive shaft take out the 3 bolts use some lube like liquid wrench on the flange area and wait till other stuff is out of the way to remove that. Tap on one of the bolt ears with a soft hammer to slightly twist is then pry easily on that dust flange near the trans and keep twisting that flange deal, no need to over force it.
So you have some stupid over tightened by the factory bolts. It took me a week to get the trans out, some long and some not so long days. I took all the plastic inner fender stuff out of the front area's of the fenders to better get to the transmission side mount and the sub frame nuts. You need to of course take off the steering tie rod ball joint nuts that have cotter pins so heads up on those hard to see if the car in not up on a lift. No I have no lift.
In that picture you are DOING IT WRONG. That is how everyone on youtube does it, except for the professional shops(they do it like I did). Do not leave all that heavy stuff with the sub frame all that can stay with the car (the spindles and such). When I did mine I had to plan on reassembling it all to get the car out of the shop on its own wheels, so yeah I installed all that sub frame and suspension without the transmission in the car, and I made a support system for the engine so it could be rolled out. I need the space to work.

I used an emoji and messed up the first post and said it needed admin approval, I had no idea how long that would take so here it is again.
Hi Chidog,thank you for reply,as I read you got better experience then me and better tools to work with.
I bought this car for around $1400/$1500 (If I convert SA Rand value correct) as a project to work on. (shops asking around $2000 dollar on labor only for removing the transmission thats very expensive!!
My previous Project was a little pocket rocket 1994 1.4 Fiat Uno Turbo that I restored and it was a fun project. (that was 6 years back) I removed that cars transmission twice and also did some engine work and replaced turbo + intercooler,etc.
So this is totally a bigger vehicle and more heavy lifting so I try my best to do the job easy as possible (not maybe professional as the shops) and while removing the transmission I see some broken rubbers,stable arms,ball joints,etc and make a list to replace them too
I will attached a picture of my murano the the day I picked it up with my Ranger.
will keep the post updated as I worked on the murano
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Looks nice. I am just trying to give some good tips on how to make the job easier. Like that sub frame you just don't need the extra parts flopping around on it or the extra weight. And if you do it like I did, the stuff is not in the way too badly, and can be held out of the way with a strap or rope. Same goes for the steering rack there are 2 bolts that go into it from the rear, I don't remember the size I think its 19mm. the steering wheel shaft will hold that side up and on the other side I tied it up a bit just to keep it level, tied around the tie rod that is. Is yours an all wheel drive? Are you leaving the engine in the car? I did.
I just removed the transmission. If its an AWD you need to remove the transfercase(if your removing the whole transmission), and it very likely needs seals, mine only had a very small amount of oil in it.
You are not going to want to go through all this work for nothing. Correct?
There is a reason the CVT belt got messed up!!!! It could have been mostly those steel balls in the variators. And another thing with these transmissions is the flow control valve, that is in the fluid pump housing, and a not to difficult thing to do once the transmission is out. Also this is a good time to replace all the seals, for the CV shafts etc. and maybe even the torque converter seal. If you are removing the torque converter when reinstalling it you need to measure from the face where the transmission fits to the engine to the pad that goes to the flex plate. I can give you that dimension and it is on line as well I will have to find that stuff for you when the time comes.
Chidog I really appreciate your advice and I do take note of all the things you mentioned.
This is an AWD version,do I really need to take the transfercase apart or can I leave it on the transmission? and only disconnect the shaft with the 4 bolts?
I am going to replace all the leaking seals and what needs to be replaced.
I also decide to take out the complete transmission and take it apart to check that flow control valve as I read its a common issue,hopefully the pulleys are not in a bad condition.
All what I know,Nissan asked the previous owner crazy expensive price to do CVT oil change and the owner did not accept it,so the oil is very dirty.
Today I want to shop for a wrench with a smaller head so it can fit nicely into that gap where to remove the nuts of the torque converter.
On the top of the post you will see the error codes that I got,it was the output speed sensor (P0720 If I remember correctly) and then oil pressure something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
The socket for the torque converter nuts, I may have used a breaker bar on it, I don't remember. It was ground at the end then small lathe turned a little bit, the idea is to make the flats fairly sharp and square as the nuts are very thin, if you round them off you will then have to mess things up to get it off. They are very tight, and when reinstalling they do not need to be more than I think 30 foot pounds torque, and use blue thread locker, never use red on anything you ever wish to get apart again. Unless you can heat it to I think 400 degrees F.
So this socket is a 1/2 drive 14 mm.

View attachment 54055 View attachment 54056
Thank you for your input,so I got a decent breaker bar today and the same socket.
So after work I tried to remove those nuts...bloody hel that nuts is so over tight and only the last one was a bugger,so I messed it up😒 so now I need to figure out how to remove that last one.
I am going anyway replace those with new ones when I put it all together just to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I would suggest not buying any more parts for the CVT until you have the whole thing taken apart and determined what exactly broke or else you may end up finding that you should have just bought another transmission. On that note, you should also try to source a used (working) transmission as a fallback plan in case you find your car's CVT not repairable (or worth repairing).
I will not because most of the parts I need to import,like I did with CVT belt from USA.
I was looking for one in my country, South Africa and was way too expensive it was cheaper to import.
 
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