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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
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This is not a difficult transmission its actually very easy I think the main concern is to find parts for this transmission.
I have a friend that got an engineering shop with all the special tools to take this pulleys apart so I can see if those ball bearings cause a failure.
So far I have not seen any other damage to the transmission.
I am going to take the pump apart this upcoming weekend just to make sure everything is good to go.
As I said before I am going to keep this post updated.

Big thank you to all of you that are giving tips and suggestions I do appreciate it.
 

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You will probably be able to sand on the pulleys and clean them up you will need to remove the belt deposits on them. But lets see what the inside of the variators is like first.
If your friend has a lathe could use that, and 320.
How did the fluid look and inside the oil pan as far as metal particles?
How about the flow control valve in the pump housing?
Its almost a mandatory thing to have to take the complete valve body apart to clean and make sure the valves are free. The kit I mentioned has special valve body seals and screens in it. As well as the pins for the variators. You may need to consider a reman torque converter, maybe about $300 or so, its the only way to have true new clean fluid and
any of the centrifugally deposited metal and debris inside it removed. So far I have not drained any coolant, looks like you left the small oil cooler on the transmission.
Very easy, I've had way easier ones. The variators make it not so fun. Don't throw any of the old parts away till your done.
 

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These are for the variator nuts and are flatter than they look, they fit the nuts very well, you don't want to goof them up. The primary has a right hand thread and the secondary nut at the gear has a left hand thread. Some day if I have access to a big enough lathe I'll face them the correct way.

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
You will probably be able to sand on the pulleys and clean them up you will need to remove the belt deposits on them. But lets see what the inside of the variators is like first.
If your friend has a lathe could use that, and 320.
How did the fluid look and inside the oil pan as far as metal particles?
How about the flow control valve in the pump housing?
Its almost a mandatory thing to have to take the complete valve body apart to clean and make sure the valves are free. The kit I mentioned has special valve body seals and screens in it. As well as the pins for the variators. You may need to consider a reman torque converter, maybe about $300 or so, its the only way to have true new clean fluid and
any of the centrifugally deposited metal and debris inside it removed. So far I have not drained any coolant, looks like you left the small oil cooler on the transmission.
Very easy, I've had way easier ones. The variators make it not so fun. Don't throw any of the old parts away till your done.
I will look at the flow control valve on this upcoming weekend when taking the pump apart.
The fluid are brownish colour,but inside the transmission where the clutches are no metal particles I have checked even with a flash light,most of the particles where at variator side.
what grain sand paper did you use to sand on the pulleys.
Your pulleys looks almost brand new,you only sand it or did you also polished it?
 

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I have seen articles on the net, that mention 320 grit.
This guy is very sharp and has a real good thread for the newer JF011E, I was asking him about what to use. I ended up using 400 grit on just the primary pulley I didn't do anything with the secondary as like you say looks almost new. The guy is an engineer so he has come up with some very good ideas.
The pulleys look polished like a mirror at a distance, but they do have to have a slight roughness to them, just scroll up and look for our discussion on the finish.
CVT Replacement & Upgrade I liked that this forum has a dedicated CVT section.
Guaranteed you will find lots of microscopic metal through out the fluid, its the nature of these transmissions. On the old variator seal rings they were loaded with fine metal.
I hope your variators are usable, not torn up from disintegrated balls, if the grooves are a little bit messed up the pins should still work ok. Where do you plan to get the belt from? There are inexpensive refurbished ones that may work okay. I saw a new one for $750. thats a bit much. Fluid color? My old fluid is a purple tint, I'm wondering if someone added NS-3 at one time, since it is supposed to be blue.
NS-3 is wrong for these transmissions, it even has a lower viscosity, and also less friction from what I have read.
In the pics you can tell the primary did have a slipping issue sort of. It must get more torque than the secondary and its usually the one that kills the steel balls.
 

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That is worse than mine at the hole end. That could have been sticking on occasion and also leaking like crazy. I hope the hole in the pump body is okay, you need to try to measure it before installing that kit or even before ordering it. You may need a rebuilt pump. I will try to get some dimensions of the kit and the hole tomorrow for you. Hope your friend has the tools to measure the pump body hole. That is what happens from not changing the transmission fluid, and from Jatco using the wrong materials for the application. Your valve body likely has some messed up valves as well. I'm saving that for last myself. Don't need more stuff in pieces you know.
 

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The top photo is what the kit replaces. You end up reusing the bottom photo piece.
The dimension I am talking about is the diameter in the top photo. You can see where those 3 annular rings are at does not look as worn as the end that has the small hole through it, that is the critical measurement, as it fits in the hole in the pump and fluid can leak around it, and also being so worn out it will tilt in the hole and stick, if it sticks open, it dumps all the pressure, if it leaks around it, it still dumps some of the pressure. It sure looks smaller on the right side in the photo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Okay Guys so just a update,this weekend I degrease and cleaned the subframe,I will attached some photos,subrame need new stabilzer arms and some boiljoints on both sides
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I left those spindle assembly's and the steering rack and pinion with the car. I did not want to deal with power steering fluid leaking everywhere. And all that stuff makes the subframe real heavy.
Its bad enough with out all that stuff on the subframe, to get it balanced on the jacks to install it.
You did a great job cleaning it all, it almost looks new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Was a bit windy so I waited a while and then I took the transmission casing cleaned it,removed the oil sprayer tubes that are inside the casing,cleaned it and blow compressed air through all the oil channels to remove any dirt/particles.
After that I wrapped all the pieces and packed it away.
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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
I left those spindle assembly's and the steering rack and pinion with the car. I did not want to deal with power steering fluid leaking everywhere. And all that stuff makes the subframe real heavy.
Its bad enough with out all that stuff on the subframe, to get it balanced on the jacks to install it.
You did a great job cleaning it all, it almost looks new.
Yes I was also thinking off just leave it there,but then again its a project so why not removed it and cleaned everything..now to replace seals and balljoints will be easier now.
 

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Not so sure about these cars, but on some if you loosen or remove the 2 bolts that hold the spindle assembly to the struts you just end up costing an alignment because that controls the camber.
I just remove the one bolt and slightly spread the clamp area and remove the spindle assy from the lower ball joint. And leave the caliper on that spindle assy, and just swing it all out of the way, easy cheezy.
Its enough work without adding tons of unnecessary other stuff to do. Like I said I got the transmission out with out draining power steering, with out draining coolant, all that was drained is the transfer case and the transmission. Dealing with flushing the coolers may cause a coolant drain not sure.
I wish you lived close by, I'd be having you clean my parts.

I just noticed, your measuring of the flow control valve, you must be in the notches, if you do the Transgo drop in fix, it shows measuring the full length.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Not so sure about these cars, but on some if you loosen or remove the 2 bolts that hold the spindle assembly to the struts you just end up costing an alignment because that controls the camber.
I just remove the one bolt and slightly spread the clamp area and remove the spindle assy from the lower ball joint. And leave the caliper on that spindle assy, and just swing it all out of the way, easy cheezy.
Its enough work without adding tons of unnecessary other stuff to do. Like I said I got the transmission out with out draining power steering, with out draining coolant, all that was drained is the transfer case and the transmission. Dealing with flushing the coolers may cause a coolant drain not sure.
I wish you lived close by, I'd be having you clean my parts.

I just noticed, your measuring of the flow control valve, you must be in the notches, if you do the Transgo drop in fix, it shows measuring the full length.
I assume you are going to use the transgo kit too? I just hope it will work, some complain about whining noise, but that was from Nissan Rogue CVT ,they use different valve.
I liked cleaned parts, feels new.
anytime my friend if you lived close by, but we live sadly thousands of miles apart.

Will post some photos later how the pulleys look.

Forum is very quiet lately about my post:p

Only chidog that replied the most:):):)
 

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I suspect the forum is quiet because you're in deeper than about 99% of all members would consider getting. All I can do is look in now and then and wish you good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
I suspect the forum is quiet because you're in deeper than about 99% of all members would consider getting. All I can do is look in now and then and wish you good luck.
Thank you pilgrim I do appreciate,I'm trying to make it interesting as there is always that one guy that wants to do everything by himself. (maybe this will help him.
I have done very much research and looking forward to finish this project and share with the members all the photos and what the inside of the CVT looks like,etc.
 

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Thanks for the details, pics and updates. Before my engine crapped out around the 301,000 mile mark, I was having pressure issues with the CVT since around August 2019, and I suspected the flow control valve was partially to blame, but wasn't about to dismantle everything because the car still ran relatively normal after a brief warming up period.
 
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Again that Transgo kit was proven to work on these transmissions. It is the JF011E that it buzzes on, that trans has a different type of oil pump.

Did you get the variators apart yet? How do they look?
 
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