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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently my AC compressor is delayed about 20 mins. before it comes on. Motor is blowing and coolant is full. Compressor was replaced about 6 years ago. What should I check?
 

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20 minutes until it starts blowing air, or 20 minutes before the compressor kicks in?

If it's the compressor, it could be the clutch. However, I would start by checking the high and low side pressure with a manifold tool to be sure it hasn't leaked refrigerant... What brand compressor?

You can download the service manual from here:

 
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When you say that the compressor is not coming on, have you visually checked that the compressor pulley is not spinning when the A/C is on? Or, are you just going by when cool air starts blowing out of the vents?

Another question that's relevant here is when the A/C is working, is the air blowing out of the vents ice cold as it should be? Or, have you noticed it's not as cool as in the past and it takes a long time for the system to cool the cabin (esp. recently)? The reason for the questions is the refrigerant pressure has to be quite low for the ECM to not command the compressor clutch to engage (less than 17 psi)--this is low enough where there should be a noticeable lack of cooling performance (i.e. air from the vents is cool, but not cold).
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
20 minutes until it starts blowing air, or 20 minutes before the compressor kicks in?

If it's the compressor, it could be the clutch. However, I would start by checking the high and low side pressure with a manifold tool to be sure it hasn't leaked refrigerant... What brand compressor?

You can download the service manual from here:

20 Mins before compressor kicks on. I was able to get a gauge on the LP manifold in trying to fill it, it's in the green. Not sure of the brand, a local repair station put it in.
 

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What is the temperature coming out of the vents once it's working? Does it feel normal once the compressor finally kicks in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When you say that the compressor is not coming on, have you visually checked that the compressor pulley is not spinning when the A/C is on? Or, are you just going by when cool air starts blowing out of the vents?

Another question that's relevant here is when the A/C is working, is the air blowing out of the vents ice cold as it should be? Or, have you noticed it's not as cool as in the past and it takes a long time for the system to cool the cabin (esp. recently)? The reason for the questions is the refrigerant pressure has to be quite low for the ECM to not command the compressor clutch to engage (less than 17 psi)--this is low enough where there should be a noticeable lack of cooling performance (i.e. air from the vents is cool, but not cold).
Yes, I can see that the clutch is NOT spinning. After driving for about 20 mins....it kicks in...sometimes a little longer. I just put a gauge on it trying to maybe recharge the system, it says its in the green on the LP side. It seems to get cold eventually, but maybe it is taking a little longer.
 

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I wonder if the compressor takes a while to build up sufficient pressure to allow the clutch to kick on. The symptom (and maybe not the actual cause of the problem) seems to be the delayed engagement of the clutch.
 

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Yes, feels normal.
Check out this thread. It's for a 1st gen Murano, but it may also apply to your 2nd gen. In particular, it has a PDF that can be downloaded that describes the IPDM test that can activate the clutch.

 
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Always use an AC manifold gauges to get readings from your low and high pressure ports. This will give you better information on what is going on with your system than any of those quick recharge can kits. Spray soapy water on your low and high ports to see if you have any leaks coming out of that very common location. Establishing a proper refrigerant charge is the the very first step in diagnosing AC issues. In an off chance your compressor clutch is defective, unless that was an oem one, not sure if you can replace just the clutch. Available clutch replacement mostly fits the original compressor.
 

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the IPDM test that can activate the clutch.
Be sure to run this test under the same exact conditions as when the clutch fails to engage when the engine is running with A/C on. The test simply confirms that the IPDM can command the clutch to engage. If this test is normal under the same conditions then you'd be looking at issues that affect the command signal from the ECM (low refrigerant pressure would be one thing).

Always use an AC manifold gauges to get readings from your low and high pressure ports.
I agree with this. The gauges on those quick-fill cans are spotty at best. Drop one on the ground and it's worthless. Rent a set of gauges from an auto parts store.
 
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For the last 2 days I've been able to get the compressor to come on and blow cold when I switch it to DEFROST. What does that mean?
Does it only work on defrost? Have you tried turning AUTO off and putting the temperature on the coldest setting?

What does the outside temperature read on the liquid crystal display on the dashboard (...it's accessed the same way as range, fuel economy etc.)? Does it look reasonable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Does it only work on defrost? Have you tried turning AUTO off and putting the temperature on the coldest setting?

What does the outside temperature read on the liquid crystal display on the dashboard (...it's accessed the same way as range, fuel economy etc.)? Does it look reasonable?
Temp reading looks normal...seems putting it on AUTO works too. Hmmm, gonna see how next few days go.
 
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