Nissan Murano Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So there are 139,000 miles on my car. About a month ago, my car started hesitating when starting out. It cranks fine, rpms seem normal. It wouldn't hesitate every time. When I say hesitate, I mean I'll be at a light or stop sign, I press the gas and it starts to go then all of a sudden it's like there is no gas going to the engine. Gas pedal can be all the way to the floor. Then within about 5 to 10 seconds, it kicks in and takes off fine. Last week, it started getting worse especially if I'm starting on an incline. It will continue to hesitate but, won't kick in until I almost get up the hill. Slow rolling, thinking it will eventually quit rolling. No power at all. Now, if I am already driving at a decent speed when I come to a hill, it will most of the time have no issues. But, then it started jumping. I'd be going 40 mph up hill and it's like I hit the breaks hard. And it slows down to 20.
I took it to Auto Zone, and with the virus going on, they gave me the (and this when I sound like a typical girl) tester thing. Told me how to plug it into the car and let it read. I took it back in and they told me it was showing the Mass Air Flow Sensor. So I bought a can of the MAF cleaner, brought it home, took the MAF off the car, sprayed the hell out of it and the connector. Drove it for 2 days with no problems. Thought it was fixed. It was not, got on here and started reading. Yesterday, I checked the air filter it was very dirty. I noticed 2 things, one, the clip on the left was not fastened on the air filter case. And the metal clamp on the (girly talk) black accordion thing that the air filter box connects to.
I know that the whole system works like a suction. So I thought ok, maybe this was the problem. I tightened the clamp, replaced the air filter. Drove it yesterday and it starts again.
Now, before anyone comments, i am educated, Army vet, 1 of 3 girls, my dad made us work on our own cars. I am by no means a mechanic. Just help me figure out what it could be. Has anyone had this issue? Have a fix? I read a couple of threads on here that were similar. I don't know if this is related, but, my fuel gauge will go to E, even though I know it has plenty of gas. The miles to empty will show low miles then gradually go up until the gauge goes back to where it should be and the miles to empty goes to normal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I'm in north Alabama, temp was 75 yesterday. When this all started I was in Nashville, temp was anywhere between 35 to 65. Not thinking outside temp is part of the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
492 Posts
I'm in north Alabama, temp was 75 yesterday. When this all started I was in Nashville, temp was anywhere between 35 to 65. Not thinking outside temp is part of the issue.
Did Autozone tell you the code the scanner pulled? Was the MIL illuminated when you scanned the PCM? Oftentimes MAF codes are the result of a vacuum leak. Take off the rubber accordion intake tubing that connects the throttle body to the top of the airbox where the MAF is connected. Inspect it closely (bend it) and check for tears/holes.

If you have no symptoms of any electrical problems or other gauges going wacky, the gas gauge floating around is often a sign that there is a problem with the fuel sending unit in the fuel tank (connected to the fuel pump). Nevertheless, if you have access to a multi-meter it's a good idea to check the battery voltage with engine off (should read at/near 12.7 volts) and with the engine running and all lights/accessories turned off (should read more than 14 volts).

Let us know what you find.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Did Autozone tell you the code the scanner pulled? Was the MIL illuminated when you scanned the PCM? Oftentimes MAF codes are the result of a vacuum leak. Take off the rubber accordion intake tubing that connects the throttle body to the top of the airbox where the MAF is connected. Inspect it closely (bend it) and check for tears/holes.

If you have no symptoms of any electrical problems or other gauges going wacky, the gas gauge floating around is often a sign that there is a problem with the fuel sending unit in the fuel tank (connected to the fuel pump). Nevertheless, if you have access to a multi-meter it's a good idea to check the battery voltage with engine off (should read at/near 12.7 volts) and with the engine running and all lights/accessories turned off (should read more than 14 volts).

Let us know what you find.
Thanks, I'm going to take it back up to Autozone and get a print out of the codes. I will check the intake tubing off and inspect and check the volts on the battery. I'll let you know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Went to O'reilly's. He checked the battery. He said it showed good battery but needs charged and the Alternator is good. The battery is reading 12.3 with engine off. He also ran the codes. There are 3 now and none are the Mass Air Flow sensor. P0174, P0171 and P0463. So what I read so far off here is the P0463 is the sensor for the gas gauge and is not a needed fix. I reset my miles and keep up with the gas amount that way. Is this correct? As for the P0174 and P0171, these have to do with the Air/Gas ratio. Which can either be air intake issue or a fuel pump issue.Took the intake tubing off and there is a huge slice in it. Going to get a new one. Hopefully, that will fix it. Thank you so much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
492 Posts
@ I need coffee Thank you so much.
Glad to hear you fixed it! The P0171 and P0174 are lean condition codes and most certainly caused by the tear in the intake tubing in your case. The MAF sensor measures all the air coming into the engine, but the assumption is that all the air is passing through the air filter. If you have a tear like you showed in the intake tubing then the engine is sucking a huge amount of air through that hole (air that isn't getting measured by the MAF sensor). Thus, much more air is entering the engine than the PCM thinks there is and this can dramatically throw off air/fuel ratios and cause engine performance issues.

With the P0463--is the MIL illuminated? If so, and if you need to get emissions inspection where you live, then that could be a problem. Otherwise, if you're tracking the mileage and making sure your gas tank doesn't go dry then you can just live with the wacky fuel gauge.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top