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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need help here pretty bad. Here's the back story.

2009 Murano LE
147,400 miles

About 6-9 months ago i got a check engine light. Advance auto read the error codes and it came back with P0420 P1722 P0725. Looked up some info online and was advised by the guy at advanced auto to change the crankshaft sensor and the O2 sensor (sensor 1 bank 1).
since it was cold out 6 months ago i decided to change just the crankshaft sensor as P0420 is claimed not to affect driveability. Mind you within the time frame of the check engine light coming on until now i also had to change out the front driver side wheel bearing. So about 3 weeks ago, the engine stalled at a red light. I started it back up and got home with no further issue.
I have the codes pulled again after the engine stall and it gave the same 3 (P0420 P1722 P0725)
I tried to hold out for better weather which came about a week ago. But unfortunately, the murano has been stalling periodically especially for the last two weeks.
I have the error codes pulled a 3rd time and to my delight i get

P0420
P0725
P1722
P1726
P0335
C1130

So i back tracked and found out that apparently you have to change the CAMshaft sensors along with the CRANKshaft sensor. I changed both CAMshaft sensors to go along with the Crankshaft sensor AND NOW THE STALLING IS EVEN WORSE.
I tried the idle relearn procedure but it doesnt seem to allow itself to go thru with the procedure.

I have no idea where to even start with all these codes. C1130 is the ECU i believe, P0335 is the crankshaft sensor lol which was the first sensor i changed smh.
So thru all of this, the main thing i want to fix first is the stalling. Although i do have the P0420, the O2 sensor itself has its own codes for when it dies out (P0130 thru P0135) which are codes the computer has never thrown.
Im going to pull the codes again tomorrow to see if the camshaft sensors got rid of any of them. I cant understand whats making it stall during idle. Can anyone please help??
 

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Need help here pretty bad. Here's the back story.

2009 Murano LE
147,400 miles

About 6-9 months ago i got a check engine light. Advance auto read the error codes and it came back with P0420 P1722 P0725. Looked up some info online and was advised by the guy at advanced auto to change the crankshaft sensor and the O2 sensor (sensor 1 bank 1).
since it was cold out 6 months ago i decided to change just the crankshaft sensor as P0420 is claimed not to affect driveability. Mind you within the time frame of the check engine light coming on until now i also had to change out the front driver side wheel bearing. So about 3 weeks ago, the engine stalled at a red light. I started it back up and got home with no further issue.
I have the codes pulled again after the engine stall and it gave the same 3 (P0420 P1722 P0725)
I tried to hold out for better weather which came about a week ago. But unfortunately, the murano has been stalling periodically especially for the last two weeks.
I have the error codes pulled a 3rd time and to my delight i get

P0420
P0725
P1722
P1726
P0335
C1130

So i back tracked and found out that apparently you have to change the CAMshaft sensors along with the CRANKshaft sensor. I changed both CAMshaft sensors to go along with the Crankshaft sensor AND NOW THE STALLING IS EVEN WORSE.
I tried the idle relearn procedure but it doesnt seem to allow itself to go thru with the procedure.

I have no idea where to even start with all these codes. C1130 is the ECU i believe, P0335 is the crankshaft sensor lol which was the first sensor i changed smh.
So thru all of this, the main thing i want to fix first is the stalling. Although i do have the P0420, the O2 sensor itself has its own codes for when it dies out (P0130 thru P0135) which are codes the computer has never thrown.
Im going to pull the codes again tomorrow to see if the camshaft sensors got rid of any of them. I cant understand whats making it stall during idle. Can anyone please help??

Just for reference, these are the code descriptions (excluding the P0420, which is not the immediate concern here):

P0725 Engine Speed
P1722 Vehicle Speed
P1726 Throttle Control Signal
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit
C1130 Engine Signal

How often does it stall (e.g. every trip, once a day, once a week?) Did you have any work done to the car within a few months of when the stalling started to happen? And, did you look at the freeze frame data accompanying the DTCs?

This may sound banal, but if you haven't already I would suggest checking the battery connections to make sure they're clean and tight in addition to the ground connections on the frame. Also check the wiring harness to the PCM and TCM to make sure there's no damage (they're mounted right next to the battery) in addition to the wiring harness to the ABS Control Module (mounted on the firewall on the passenger side). The common codes through all this are the P0725 and P1722--those are thrown by the TCM.

BTW, not sure who told you that you need to change the cam sensors along with the crank sensor. If the sensors aren't bad, they don't need to be replaced. It seems the crank sensor may not have been bad to begin with as the stalling problem continues even though you replaced it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just for reference, these are the code descriptions (excluding the P0420, which is not the immediate concern here):

P0725 Engine Speed
P1722 Vehicle Speed
P1726 Throttle Control Signal
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit
C1130 Engine Signal

How often does it stall (e.g. every trip, once a day, once a week?) Did you have any work done to the car within a few months of when the stalling started to happen? And, did you look at the freeze frame data accompanying the DTCs?

This may sound banal, but if you haven't already I would suggest checking the battery connections to make sure they're clean and tight in addition to the ground connections on the frame. Also check the wiring harness to the PCM and TCM to make sure there's no damage (they're mounted right next to the battery) in addition to the wiring harness to the ABS Control Module (mounted on the firewall on the passenger side). The common codes through all this are the P0725 and P1722--those are thrown by the TCM.

BTW, not sure who told you that you need to change the cam sensors along with the crank sensor. If the sensors aren't bad, they don't need to be replaced. It seems the crank sensor may not have been bad to begin with as the stalling problem continues even though you replaced it.
thank you for your help!!!!!
The only work done was me personally changing the driver side wheel bearing. No other work has been done since i got the car in 2015.

Some days it stalls multiple times. Some days it stalls maybe once (ive gotten lucky and had days with no stalls)
No i havent looked at freeze frame data. Im not aware of how to do so.

Now that you mention it, the positive cable clamp is a bit funny. One time last week while leaving work the check engine light randomly turned OFF. I get to a red light and the car stalled and went completely dead. Turns out that the positive battery terminal clamp was loose so i tightened it up and made it home. The positive battery terminal is pretty sketchy. No matter how hard i tighten it the clamp is still able to "pivot" on the terminal a bit. Almost as if the clamp is too big. But the negative is just fine idk why.

As for the cam and crank sensors. Theyre already changed out but i did read online that a bad crankshaft sensor could cause stalling. The crankshaft sensor has a life time warranty so i just changed it out today (first time i changed it was sept 2018).
I will definitely check the wiring tomorrow and report any findings. What are your thoughts on the positive side battery connection i explained?
 

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thank you for your help!!!!!
The only work done was me personally changing the driver side wheel bearing. No other work has been done since i got the car in 2015.

Some days it stalls multiple times. Some days it stalls maybe once (ive gotten lucky and had days with no stalls)
No i havent looked at freeze frame data. Im not aware of how to do so.

Now that you mention it, the positive cable clamp is a bit funny. One time last week while leaving work the check engine light randomly turned OFF. I get to a red light and the car stalled and went completely dead. Turns out that the positive battery terminal clamp was loose so i tightened it up and made it home. The positive battery terminal is pretty sketchy. No matter how hard i tighten it the clamp is still able to "pivot" on the terminal a bit. Almost as if the clamp is too big. But the negative is just fine idk why.

As for the cam and crank sensors. Theyre already changed out but i did read online that a bad crankshaft sensor could cause stalling. The crankshaft sensor has a life time warranty so i just changed it out today (first time i changed it was sept 2018).
I will definitely check the wiring tomorrow and report any findings. What are your thoughts on the positive side battery connection i explained?
Definitely change it. You should not be able to move the positive battery terminal with your hands. A loose battery terminal can cause weird behavior, especially with all the electronics in cars these days. Hopefully, that's what's causing the mayhem since those TCM codes are bad news. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Definitely change it. You should not be able to move the positive battery terminal with your hands. A loose battery terminal can cause weird behavior, especially with all the electronics in cars these days. Hopefully, that's what's causing the mayhem since those TCM codes are bad news. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
Welp car drove fine yesterday morning in to work. On the way home, it did fine all the way to advance auto to pick up a oem battery cable end. Pulled out of the parking lot and it stalled pretty bad.
Since i was on a public road i cleaned the positive cable end the best i could. There was quite a bit of corrosion causing the end to not fit very snug but nothing too crazy. But even after cleaning the end the car got to the point where it was undriveable. It turns over fine but stalls as soon as its put in gear (only when its at operating temperature does it stall)

So today i checked the connections. Nothing looked bad. I didnt actually disconnect the wiring harnesses from the ecm etc (let me know if i should) but they look and feel nice and snug and in good condition. Havent pulled any codes since i changed the crankshaft so i guess thats the next step.

So if the TCM is bad, what exactly am i looking at repair and cost wise?? :crying:
 

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Welp car drove fine yesterday morning in to work. On the way home, it did fine all the way to advance auto to pick up a oem battery cable end. Pulled out of the parking lot and it stalled pretty bad.
Since i was on a public road i cleaned the positive cable end the best i could. There was quite a bit of corrosion causing the end to not fit very snug but nothing too crazy. But even after cleaning the end the car got to the point where it was undriveable. It turns over fine but stalls as soon as its put in gear (only when its at operating temperature does it stall)

So today i checked the connections. Nothing looked bad. I didnt actually disconnect the wiring harnesses from the ecm etc (let me know if i should) but they look and feel nice and snug and in good condition. Havent pulled any codes since i changed the crankshaft so i guess thats the next step.

So if the TCM is bad, what exactly am i looking at repair and cost wise?? :crying:
Well, I wouldn't write the TCM off just yet. The codes could be a clue or they could also be a consequence of the repeated stalling.

So, changing the positive battery cable connector and cleaning it up didn't help at all? When the car stalls does it die immediately or does it sort of sputter and then die? And, it does this when you put it in gear--both drive and reverse? And, when its not stalling does it drive normally (i.e. you don't notice a lack of power or anything unusual)?

BTW...do you have your own scan tool or do you just get codes pulled from the auto parts store? You say the car only does this when at operating temperature so I think it could be helpful to look at live data on a scan tool from a cold start and then let the car warm up and see if you can watch the sensor readings when it starts acting up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I wouldn't write the TCM off just yet. The codes could be a clue or they could also be a consequence of the repeated stalling.

So, changing the positive battery cable connector and cleaning it up didn't help at all? When the car stalls does it die immediately or does it sort of sputter and then die? And, it does this when you put it in gear--both drive and reverse? And, when its not stalling does it drive normally (i.e. you don't notice a lack of power or anything unusual)?

BTW...do you have your own scan tool or do you just get codes pulled from the auto parts store? You say the car only does this when at operating temperature so I think it could be helpful to look at live data on a scan tool from a cold start and then let the car warm up and see if you can watch the sensor readings when it starts acting up.
I didnt actually change the connector because it wasnt in stock. But i did clean the connector off well (i happened to have baking soda and water). I even removed the plastic covering and left it off, assuring a tight metal to metal contact. It no longer pivots on the terminal when i push on the connector.

When it stalls it does surge a couple times and rumbles at its stalling. The "surges" feel like the car is trying to stay on and they seem like they make the car suddenly jerk forward. When its not stalling it drives completely normal. Never had it stall while in reverse (such as parallel parking. The day after i put the camshaft sensors in, i got on the highway for a good 5 - 10 miles at speeds up to 60-70mph with no funny sounds or anything. When i got to my destination (well into operating temperature) it literally stalled as i was pulling into my parking spot. I stayed there for about an hour and when i left it did stall a couple times on the way back. Then the post i made about going to advance auto happened.

No i dont have a scanner, ill pick one up and try to look at live data
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Definitely change it. You should not be able to move the positive battery terminal with your hands. A loose battery terminal can cause weird behavior, especially with all the electronics in cars these days. Hopefully, that's what's causing the mayhem since those TCM codes are bad news. Good luck and let us know how it works out.

So the only code showing now is crankshaft sensor P0335
P0725 showed up for a sec after a stall but then went away.

I didnt drive the car. I just pulled the codes and the freeze frame data

Then i let the car warm up to operating temperature, put the e brake on, and put it in drive to wait for it to stall. It stalled, i pulled the codes and it showed P0335. I started it back up to see if i could watch live data but it stalled pretty much immediately. Pulled codes and it showed P0335 and P0725 at first, then after another start and stall, just P0335

So finally, i cleared the codes and gave it one more start. It stalled again fairly quickly and i pulled the codes one more time along with freeze frame data.

There were a few differences in the freeze frame data from when i initially took them. Could i upload them and have you look at them??
Im suspecting the wiring from the crankshaft to the ecm is bad somewhere. But i dont see any wiring harness for sale at any store or the dealer so i have no idea how to go about replacing it smh
 

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So the only code showing now is crankshaft sensor P0335
P0725 showed up for a sec after a stall but then went away.

I didnt drive the car. I just pulled the codes and the freeze frame data

Then i let the car warm up to operating temperature, put the e brake on, and put it in drive to wait for it to stall. It stalled, i pulled the codes and it showed P0335. I started it back up to see if i could watch live data but it stalled pretty much immediately. Pulled codes and it showed P0335 and P0725 at first, then after another start and stall, just P0335

So finally, i cleared the codes and gave it one more start. It stalled again fairly quickly and i pulled the codes one more time along with freeze frame data.

There were a few differences in the freeze frame data from when i initially took them. Could i upload them and have you look at them??
Im suspecting the wiring from the crankshaft to the ecm is bad somewhere. But i dont see any wiring harness for sale at any store or the dealer so i have no idea how to go about replacing it smh
Sure, go ahead ahead and upload the freeze frame data.

And just so I have this straight--from a cold start, the engine will start and run unless you put it in gear in which case it will stall. If after starting the engine cold and you just leave it in park and let it idle, the engine will warm up to operating temperature, but will stall if put in gear and once the engine is hot it basically becomes a cranking no-start after it stalls or it'll start and immediately stall?

BTW... not sure if you were aware, but you can get the complete set of service manuals for your car on the nicoclub website: Index of /FSM/Murano/2009

The relevant section in this case is probably the file named "EC" (Engine Control).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sure, go ahead ahead and upload the freeze frame data.

And just so I have this straight--from a cold start, the engine will start and run unless you put it in gear in which case it will stall. If after starting the engine cold and you just leave it in park and let it idle, the engine will warm up to operating temperature, but will stall if put in gear and once the engine is hot it basically becomes a cranking no-start after it stalls or it'll start and immediately stall?

BTW... not sure if you were aware, but you can get the complete set of service manuals for your car on the nicoclub website: Index of /FSM/Murano/2009

The relevant section in this case is probably the file named "EC" (Engine Control).
Thanks for the service manual. Ill be reading it right after this post.

Yup, from a cold start it will idle for a long time. I have never had it stall just from starting it from a cold start. When its put in gear, after a while you feel surges here and there. Then eventually it will stall. Once it stalls the first time, it stalls everytime you restart it. Stalls so fast you dont even have time to put it in gear.
Its not a cranking no start. Rarely ill get even a long crank. It turns over everytime and then stalls almost immediately.

Here is the freeze frame data.

The black and white side is the data from the last time i drove it (4/30/2019)
The full color side is data from AFTER i got the car to operating temperature, cleared all codes, started the car and waited for it to stall (5/4/2019). So the full color side is data from immediately after the latest stall
 

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Thanks for the service manual. Ill be reading it right after this post.

Yup, from a cold start it will idle for a long time. I have never had it stall just from starting it from a cold start. When its put in gear, after a while you feel surges here and there. Then eventually it will stall. Once it stalls the first time, it stalls everytime you restart it. Stalls so fast you dont even have time to put it in gear.
Its not a cranking no start. Rarely ill get even a long crank. It turns over everytime and then stalls almost immediately.

Here is the freeze frame data.

The black and white side is the data from the last time i drove it (4/30/2019)
The full color side is data from AFTER i got the car to operating temperature, cleared all codes, started the car and waited for it to stall (5/4/2019). So the full color side is data from immediately after the latest stall
A couple of things stand out in the color freeze frame snapshots. The car seems to be at operating temperature, but is running in open loop? Also, given the operating temperature, the idle is really high (near 1,100 RPMs). Is this why you tried an idle relearn? Did it always idle like this?

BTW...do you recall what the outside temperature was that relate to each of these freeze frame captures. You never specified your location, but you did allude to cold weather in one of your earlier posts. I ask because the intake air temperature in the colored shots looks a bit warm, but if the car was just idling with the hood closed then that could be normal.
 

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A couple of things stand out in the color freeze frame snapshots. The car seems to be at operating temperature, but is running in open loop? Also, given the operating temperature, the idle is really high (near 1,100 RPMs). Is this why you tried an idle relearn? Did it always idle like this?

BTW...do you recall what the outside temperature was that relate to each of these freeze frame captures. You never specified your location, but you did allude to cold weather in one of your earlier posts. I ask because the intake air temperature in the colored shots looks a bit warm, but if the car was just idling with the hood closed then that could be normal.
Hmmm.. the only thing i can think of is not enuff time went by for it to get to closed loop. I did clear the codes while the engine was at operating temperature.
I didnt have the scanner last time i tried the idle relearn. I just bought that scanner. I read that that procedure needed to be done if the battery was left off for an extended time. Which it was when i replaced the CAMshaft sensors. Since it was stalling at idle, i did the relearn procedure just to make sure that it wasnt an issue and that something else was causing the stalling.
Im in PA, so the black and white side was about 70-75 degrees outside. Same for the color side.

So today i had a thought. I changed the CRANKshaft sensor before a P0335 code ever showed up. Only when the stalling started did P0335 show up
But after i changed the CAMshaft sensors all codes went away except for the P0335.
So while reading the service manual it said to test the harness for continuity and to test the actual sensor. That was going to be a step i took but then i noticed that way back when i bought the CRANKshaft sensor it was Duralast and not the OEM (denso). So since the 2 CAM shaft sensors are OEM (denso) i decided to put the original CRANK shaft sensor that i took out months ago back in. I disconnected the negative battery cable this time And while under the car i decided to take another look at the wiring to the CRANKshaft. The wires looked good. So i put the original factory sensor back in and decided to let the car run until it stalled (like i did yesterday). After about 15 mins of idling from a cold start, i get in, put the e brake on and put it in gear. Didnt get any surges or anything. So i put it in neutral and reved the engine for a while..... still no stall. Put it back in drive..... no stall!!!

So then i decided to take it on the road. Drove it around not too far from my house, stopping at stop signs and red lights for extended periods of time..... no stall. So i parked and turned the car off in disbelief lol. Did the same drive around again ..... no stall. Came back to my house shut the car off and then decided to use the car to go to the grocery store. Grocery store is a good 10 min drive (20 mins there and back) with multiple red lights and traffic.... no stalling AT ALL :eek:

So it has to be either the non OEM CRANKshaft sensor causing it or the wiring. There is a chance that by me moving the wiring around while checking it for damage and putting the crankshaft sensor in that it may have connected the short (if any) by coincidence. It has to be one of those two things.

So far no check engine light and no stalling. Im going to have to drive on it more to see if it holds up so i report back either way.
 

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Good to hear the car's not stalling anymore. It wouldn't be unheard of for an aftermarket part to be bad right out of the box. There is a resistance test listed in the service manual that you can do on the Duralast sensor, but that would probably only tell you if it's shot. The best way to test a crank sensor is to look at the waveform with an oscilloscope. But since you had the stalling problem before changing out the sensor, your intuition about the wiring harness may be right. The diagnosis procedure in the service manual includes testing other sensors and related wiring so there must be a splice somewhere up the harness. Electrical gremlins are the worst to chase down.

Anyway, good luck and hopefully it doesn't come back.
 
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