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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello, let's start out with.. I've replaced my alternator, starter, battery, coils, & spark plugs. I have gotten it to start up, but now it'll immediately shut itself off if I don't apply my foot to the gas pedal. Someone help me please...
 

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Scan for error codes and post them here.
 

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What plugs and coils did you put in there? If not ngk plugs- issues. If you kept you old oem coils and they are not bad, try putting them back on. Is your CEL on? If yes, I’d guess crank sensor is bad.
 

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How do I go about doing that? Car won't move moment my foot goes off the gas it dies.
With an OBD2 code reader.

If you can get it to a place like AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts, they can read the error codes for free. It's also possible they will loan you a code reader to use at home, I believe they lend other tools for repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
With an OBD2 code reader.

If you can get it to a place like AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts, they can read the error codes for free. It's also possible they will loan you a code reader to use at home, I believe they lend other tools for repairs.

Video link of engine start up
 

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Video link of engine start up
Your dashboard is lit up like a Christmas tree. The MIL is definitely on--you really need to have the ECM scanned for codes. If you fix your own car then you really need to have your own scan tool. If you have an Android phone or tablet then buy a $15 Bluetooth OBDII adapter off of Amazon and download Torque Pro ($5) and that will be enough to troubleshoot most engine problems. If you have the cash then you can buy Bluedriver OBDII interface ($100) as that will also allow you to scan/clear ABS and SRS codes.

Did you replace all those parts to fix this problem or did the problem begin after replacing all those parts? Any background information you can provide on the history of this problem, including any work performed on the car before or after, would be helpful.
 
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Also, try disconnecting the MAF sensor and starting the engine and see if it still stalls while idling.
 

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What was the condition of the car before you replaced all of the above mentioned parts? Was it running or at least idling fine? With all the things you have to remove in replacing the plugs and alternator its possible you missed or installed a sensor the wrong way - Harness connection not fully clicked in. I would back track to the sensor connections and air intake connections if it was running ok before all the repairs. If not, there maybe other issues involved, like the CPS I mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well it started about year ago around this time actually sway bar strut on passenger broke and my top motor mount. Around may 10th my birthday starter went out replaced it. Still had other problems but had no money. Then moved to motel after lost apt. Thats when my alternator started going couple months later moved into finances moms house and it went out completely replaced it idler pulleys bolt broke inside after belt snapped and had to replace those sent the car to mechanic somehow he caught the Cadillac converter on fire drilled a hole into it I believe is what he said he did messed with my spark plugs and it just went down hill from there started 3 times after got it moved to fiance papas house took 4 tries to back it in because it would die. Last Saturday I got under the hood and replaced spark plugs coils battery terminals and battery. No longer rough idle or start no shaking. But have to keep giving it gas or it'll shut off completely im at a lil over 300k miles on the vehicle it was given to me by my dad it was my stepmother and she drove it rough when she had it they've had to replace the fuel pump twice since they had it. They had it for 3 years prior to me and im on my 3rd year having it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
and all I had asked the guy to do was get a pulley bolt out for me and all this extra crap happened wasted my new years night waiting 4 hrs in the rain for this guy to have my car put back together get there it was supposed to be ready and ended up sitting for 4 hours and now I'm at square one with this vehicle and its driving me insane.
 

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I hate to say it, but at 300k miles, along with all that you have mentioned, it's time to let it go, it will just be a continue to be a money pit... JMO
 
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I have to agree with @MuranoSL2003--even without the current problems your car is likely not long for this earth (esp. the CVT). Even if you resolve the current situation with little expense, you should start having your car replacement plan ready.

For the time being, do as @nitely suggested and go over everything you touched when replacing the coils/spark plugs, especially ground connections (if you removed any) and make sure all harness connectors are securely plugged in. I would still suggest that you invest in a scan tool though since that will help you with any other car that you'll own and you can at least see what trouble codes are stored, which might provide a clue as far as what you're facing with this car.

BTW...if your mechanic drilled a hole in the catalytic converter, it's done--did he replace it? If not, just consider that there will be pieces of catalyst material inside that can get sucked back into the engine through the exhaust valves, which can damage the cylinder walls. Not to mention you'll start throwing cat codes (if not already), which will cause you to fail a smog test if you're in an emissions inspection state.
 

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I removed the maf sensor and it stays running now
Look at the wires inside the MAF sensor--do they look dirty, contaminated, etc.? If so, you can try cleaning it with MAF sensor cleaner, but you may want to consider just replacing it. If it looks clean then possibly a problem with the circuit or the sensor itself is defective. A scan tool could help here to let you look at the values it's reporting to the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Rusty the color pieces you'd normally is all metal now going to get a replacement now though
 

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Rusty the color pieces you'd normally is all metal now going to get a replacement now though
If I understand you correctly, the resistor wires inside the sensor are corroded? If that's the case, then the sensor absolutely needs to be replaced.

But if it still doesn't want to continue idling then what
The MAF sensor measures the amount of air entering the engine and the ECM uses that information to calculate how much fuel to use. If the information the ECM is getting from the MAF sensor is not accurate (e.g. because the sensor wires are contaminated or rusty--in your case) then that can cause the problem you're having. When you disconnected the MAF sensor, the ECM immediately recognized the open circuit and threw the engine into limp mode relying instead on the position of the throttle plate along with baseline fuel calculations to run the engine. If you scan the ECM then you should find P0102 stored along with whatever other codes are currently there. If you try to drive the car with the sensor disconnected then you'll probably notice it's in limp mode as the ECM limits engine speed.

Given that the engine stopped stalling when you disconnected the sensor and you found rust on the sensor wires, it's probable that you've found the cause of the stalling problem. But, let us know what happens when you replace the MAF sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Starts smoother idles a lil longer but still ended up shutting off got some work to do today hopefully got enough time when I get back to try replacing the fuel pump next I guess
 
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