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Discussion Starter #1
'10 Murano seemed to run long enough to drain the battery and die. After jump starting, it would drive about 1/4-1/2 mile and die. So far I have changed out the battery and the alternator (both new) which seemed to be the cure for about 2 days then the same exact issue occurred. It loses all power in just a few minutes after its jumped. Any suggestions on where to start chasing down shorted/ intermittent wiring issues? Is a Nissan electrical diagnostics repair manual available to the public or am I at the mercy of the dealership? Any advice will be a blessing.
 

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2010 MO LE AWD Platinum Silver
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I’d double check and make sure your battery leads are good and tight , then check the ground wires and fuses
 

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Often refurbished replacement alternators are bad... Have it and your battery load tested to be sure both good.
 

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You can find the service manuals here:



You also download a PDF of the owner's manual from here:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When the engine is started, what voltage are you measuring at the battery terminals?
I havent had the opportunity to put a multimeter on it while running. But no low battery voltage idiot light is on the dashboard. its either starting right up and charging or completely dead. nno lights, locks, wont shift nothing.
 

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2011 Nissan Murano LE AWD
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I havent had the opportunity to put a multimeter on it while running. But no low battery voltage idiot light is on the dashboard. its either starting right up and charging or completely dead. nno lights, locks, wont shift nothing.
Did you check all the high amp fuses on the fusible link attached to the battery positive terminal? One of them (I believe the highest amp rated) is for the charging system.

Aside from that, make sure the wiring to the alternator is normal. You should read battery voltage at both the B terminal and S terminals with ignition off. With ignition on, the battery charge warning lamp should be off (because the harness is disconnected), but if you ground the L terminal then it should come on.

If all that checks out then it's entirely possible that you got a bad "new" alternator--this has happened to people on these forums before.

Let us know if you find the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think I'll post it for sale if that's the case. I'm really, REALLY trying to be optimistic about having a good alternator. I appreciate the advise.
 

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I think I'll post it for sale if that's the case. I'm really, REALLY trying to be optimistic about having a good alternator. I appreciate the advise.
My 2010 murano is now doing the same thing yours was any suggestions I have a new battery in it but haven't replaced anything else. This just started last night and i cant get it to hold a charge to even drive it to a mechanic..
 

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My 2010 murano is now doing the same thing yours was any suggestions I have a new battery in it but haven't replaced anything else. This just started last night and i cant get it to hold a charge to even drive it to a mechanic..
Let's revisit "holding a charge." I just went through the exercise below and found that the battery in one car was dropping from 12.6 to 10.4 volts in 24 hours when disconnected; therefore a bad battery.

My suggestion is to charge it fully using a battery charger, then disconnect the battery, check it with a multimeter to see what the voltage is. It will probably show something in the range of 12.4-12.9 volts.

Let it sit while disconnected and check voltage every couple of hours. If the battery is self-discharging, you'll spot the trend pretty quickly.

After 24 hours, what's the voltage? Should be within a couple of tenths of what it was a day ago.

If it's under 12V, you have a problem with the battery. If the voltage is still around 12.5V, connect the battery to the car and check it after 24 hours. Your battery should be above 12V. If not, the car is draining the battery too fast.
 
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