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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure if this is where I post this but I've looked everywhere and desperately need help. My wife's car. Awd. When accelerating it will randomly (almost as when it shifts gears) jerks left and right. When you let off the acceleration it pulls slightly right for a split second. While at cruising speed it's perfectly fine. Steering wheel is off center and when you accelerate you can hear a clicking/ low popping noise and that's when it pulls left/right. I believe the steering wheel goes back center for a bit too. It's hard to tell. Other note is it has a pretty significant power steering leak. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the issue. The power steering has leaked for some time and just kept refilling the reservoir. Vdc and slip lights were on constantly and I replaced all but 1 engine mount and also replaced the transmission mount and the light has went off. It did improve the issue bit it's still there the light randomly came up the other day while driving and went back away after restart. No error codes on obd2. This car has been pretty awful. I have replaced compressor, struts, rotors, wheel hub bearings, radiator, hose clamps on the exaust heat shield (bad rattling), all brake pads, and 02 sensor. The car has 143,000 miles on it and we have only put 30,000 miles on it since owning. Also the car just got paid off. Go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would start with the PS leak and go from there.. Diagnose the leak, which sounds like the rack. Sounds like it could also be the CV joints in the axles. Check for grease anywhere around those areas.
Thanks for the reply. Going to go under the car today and find the leak. I check again on the cv joints too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Right on. The rack is probably an expensive and timely repair possibly. Maybe verify that the leaking hose isn't to blame first. Good luck!
Well when looking under there with someone turning the wheel I couldn't really get a visual on the leak. I saw a slow drip coming from above. But when it's hard over it almost free flows from around the rack connections and I don't see it above. I'm talking about it drained the reservoir in about 60 seconds and it wasn't near where I saw the drip. I got the rack a pinion for $300 and there is a pretty good guide on here on how to do it.
 

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Well when looking under there with someone turning the wheel I couldn't really get a visual on the leak. I saw a slow drip coming from above. But when it's hard over it almost free flows from around the rack connections and I don't see it above. I'm talking about it drained the reservoir in about 60 seconds and it wasn't near where I saw the drip. I got the rack a pinion for $300 and there is a pretty good guide on here on how to do it.
Thats relatively inexpensive, I hope the replacement process is easy enough for you. Let us know how it goes. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So far not so good on the replacement. These bolts are way overtightened. Never ran into so many overtightened bolts. First one to take off finally gave and my hand went straight to the heat shield. Cut through glove and a nasty small cut. So I waited for it to heal and went back at it. Trying to get the bolt off that holds the rack and pinion on the driver side. I have broke 2 wratchets with a pipe and tried a breaker bar to no avail. Next will be 3 extensions, swivel adapter, and a deep impact socket and try to use and impact from above engine. I've sprayed it multiple times with pb blaster and will update as I make progress. The motor mount towards the front of the car was the same way but I was able to finally get that. Will eventually get it done. Learning experience and I'm determined. A 90 degree impact would probably help but I'm not sure it would be strong enough for this particular bolt.
 

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So far not so good on the replacement. These bolts are way overtightened. Never ran into so many overtightened bolts. First one to take off finally gave and my hand went straight to the heat shield. Cut through glove and a nasty small cut. So I waited for it to heal and went back at it. Trying to get the bolt off that holds the rack and pinion on the driver side. I have broke 2 wratchets with a pipe and tried a breaker bar to no avail. Next will be 3 extensions, swivel adapter, and a deep impact socket and try to use and impact from above engine. I've sprayed it multiple times with pb blaster and will update as I make progress. The motor mount towards the front of the car was the same way but I was able to finally get that. Will eventually get it done. Learning experience and I'm determined. A 90 degree impact would probably help but I'm not sure it would be strong enough for this particular bolt.
Dang, im sorry about the bolts! Pb blaster is ok, maybe try some Kroil too. Its the best penetrating fluid I've ever used. Its expensive but worth every penny IMO. Other than that, I would maybe use a butane torch to heat it up as long as the penetrating fluid is dry so-to-speak. The penetrating fluid is flammable. I've been lucky sometimes too if I try to tighten a bolt first before breaking it loose. As crazy as that sounds lol. Sometimes it takes the fight out of it or at least doesn't break loose so instantaneously where I hurt myself. This obviously doesn't work all the time and may not for you, but I figured it was worth mentioning.
53395
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dang, im sorry about the bolts! Pb blaster is ok, maybe try some Kroil too. Its the best penetrating fluid I've ever used. Its expensive but worth every penny IMO. Other than that, I would maybe use a butane torch to heat it up as long as the penetrating fluid is dry so-to-speak. The penetrating fluid is flammable. I've been lucky sometimes too if I try to tighten a bolt first before breaking it loose. As crazy as that sounds lol. Sometimes it takes the fight out of it or at least doesn't break loose so instantaneously where I hurt myself. This obviously doesn't work all the time and may not for you, but I figured it was worth mentioning. View attachment 53395
Tried tightening and then loosening. Impact first and then kroil oil and torch will be the next step. Appreciate the tips
What is the foot pound rating of your impact wrench?

This Harbor Freight is rated at 1050 foot pounds:

I've tried everything and now I'm afraid I will have to cut it off. I have a pneumatic impact. I've torched the bolt to heat it up and it will not budge. Out of options and now I'm going for the for sure method.
 

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Well I guess we all know what's ahead of us if we ever have to replace the rack. I appreciate all of the updates, it helps! I wish you well at this point and wouldn't blame ya if you had to get a new bolt to replace the torched remains.:eek:
 

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Tried tightening and then loosening. Impact first and then kroil oil and torch will be the next step. Appreciate the tips

I've tried everything and now I'm afraid I will have to cut it off. I have a pneumatic impact. I've torched the bolt to heat it up and it will not budge. Out of options and now I'm going for the for sure method.
Are you trying to remove the bolt from the bottom or the nut on the top? The nut will always be easier to get off especially when it's a long through bolt.
 

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to the op, were/are both sides of the rack leaking through its' boots or just the side nearest the exhaust? i've had a few higher mileage vehicles (a 97 civic & a 96 maxima) that both had their rack end seals nearest to the cat start leaking as they neared 200k miles. it's possible to just replace the seals (if you can find them available to buy). both times, it fixed my leaks.
 

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This Bauer impact rating is kinda misleading in the sense that the actual max torque it can do is only 300 ft lb. While their old Chicago electric impact has 230 ft lb max impact. Not too far off.
Good catch, thanks! The description has a 1050 foot pounds bolt breakaway torque rating, but it's only 300 foot pounds torque in the spec and owner's manual. There is no explanation for their 1050 foot pound bolt breakaway torque rating that I could find either, strange...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update. Both bolts off. For anyone that tries this in the future. It has a green thread lock on these bolts. I heated the hell out of the nut and used an 18in breaker bar with an 18 inch pipe to extend it. Using full force I was able to get the bolt from underneath loosened a hair. Then put a wratchet on the top nut with a swivel adapter since there is no room because of the engine mount. Passenger side was easier but bottom bolt did not budge with the breaker bar. It's more accessible so I was able to get the breaker bar on the nut with the pipe extension and break it loose. I'm not small. 6'3 240 and it took my full strength to break it loose. Now I continue.
 

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Wow!! That's a lot of force. Well done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Old rack and pinion out. The guide on this website is pretty far off from the 2010 awd Murano sl. You have to unbolt the motor mount completely. Remove most the stabilizer bar bolts too. I'll probably write a guide when it's done to help out anyway I can.
 

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Old rack and pinion out. The guide on this website is pretty far off from the 2010 awd Murano sl. You have to unbolt the motor mount completely. Remove most the stabilizer bar bolts too. I'll probably write a guide when it's done to help out anyway I can.
Thats awesome!! Yeah, give us your guide when your done. Maybe an opinion on whether or not we should attempt it ourselves at certain levels of knowledge, ability, finances etc. Thanks in advance! Good luck!
 
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