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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, asking for comments on what happens when the CVT finally fails.

For those that have had the transmission completely fail while driving, will it lock up, take out or damage the transfer, half shafts, etc.

Nissan dealer and independent garage has confirmed the transmission is failing by codes, fluid check, and they claim to hear a slight ticking inside the CVT

We don't hear that but, the car has 145,000 miles on it, we read that many have failed far sooner than ours

We have been quoted $4100 installed for rebuilt CVT, with a 90 month warranty from the independent, Nissan dealer quoted $8000

What's your opinion if we keep driving the Murano locally, we have towing insurance and when it fails have it towed to the independent

Just concerned if at highway speed 70MPH and it fails what happens, I'm not familiar with the inner workings of the CVT

Thanks,

Rich
 

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No way would I spend $8K on a replacement. You might also try another dealer, as that price is higher than others have reported.

Given the situation as you outline it, I would go to the Indy and have the CVT replaced before it strands you in a snowdrift. But be darn sure that you are getting a good replacement, as I'm not clear where that Indy shop plans to get a transmission.
 

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Hello, asking for comments on what happens when the CVT finally fails.

For those that have had the transmission completely fail while driving, will it lock up, take out or damage the transfer, half shafts, etc.

Nissan dealer and independent garage has confirmed the transmission is failing by codes, fluid check, and they claim to hear a slight ticking inside the CVT

We don't hear that but, the car has 145,000 miles on it, we read that many have failed far sooner than ours

We have been quoted $4100 installed for rebuilt CVT, with a 90 month warranty from the independent, Nissan dealer quoted $8000

What's your opinion if we keep driving the Murano locally, we have towing insurance and when it fails have it towed to the independent

Just concerned if at highway speed 70MPH and it fails what happens, I'm not familiar with the inner workings of the CVT

Thanks,

Rich
The indy shop is offering a 90 month warranty?! Is there also a mileage cap? I've never heard of a warranty on a rebuilt CVT of that length so I'd go with the indy shop if it has a good reputation. The dealership will always be more expensive and I doubt you'd get more than a 24-month warranty from them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
We are not considering the nissan dealer they obviously don't want the job. The CVT is acting normal, smooth shifts, would not have known it's going out if dealer and indy didn't tell us that

The car was in for totally different reason, high voltage output from the alternator. That turned out to be the battery had a dead cell. Also, check engine on, that was the MAF, replaced that all it good with the MO

We would keep the car within a 50 radius of home base, it's just a local driver for us now

Thanks for the comment
 

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We are not considering the nissan dealer they obviously don't want the job. The CVT is acting normal, smooth shifts, would not have known it's going out if dealer and indy didn't tell us that

The car was in for totally different reason, high voltage output from the alternator. That turned out to be the battery had a dead cell. Also, check engine on, that was the MAF, replaced that all it good with the MO

We would keep the car within a 50 radius of home base, it's just a local driver for us now

Thanks for the comment
Did they tell you the codes thrown by the TCM? Electrical issues can cause odd-ball codes to be thrown. People that have the CVT fail usually experience some symptoms beforehand (e.g. jerking, delays in accelerating, "Judder"). I wouldn't replace the CVT if you notice no driveability concerns. If you have an android phone or tablet, you can download the CVTz50 app for $5 and get a cheap OBDII adapter to do some diagnostics on the CVT (among other things). If it was my car, I'd clear the codes from the TCM and monitor periodically to see if they come back. If there was a real problem with the CVT then the code(s) would come back immediately, but again, I'd think you would notice issues while driving.

BTW, how have you been maintaining the CVT? Have you done fluid changes etc.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll look at the invoice, the dealer charged us $139 for the diag

The car has done some stalling in past very random, then the check engine light is why we took it in

Thanks for the tip on OBDII, we do have an expensive one at work I could use, not sure if it will do the CVT though

Fluids changed around 75,000 one time only. The indy said not worth doing again but, might be if the CVT will continue to work for us
 

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I'm driving a 1st Gen AWD MO, and I'm not sure if the CVT was tweaked for later models. I'm on my ninth CVT and fifth transfer case. In a few CVT failure cases, I started smelling burning rubber or hearing a loud, phasing in and out whining sound that was persistent, or seeing some tranny fluid drips under the car when parked. I think before one of the failures, there was a "loose chain" kind of sound. In most cases, there would simply be a lack of power going up a hill or trying to accelerate fast, and in one case I couldn't make it up the hill and had to roll back off the side of the road and await the ramp truck. On the eighth CVT that failed, a gear tooth had broken off and was rattling around inside (kind of started off softly, like a Chicklet was bouncing off of things.) I drove it around like that for a few months until the noise became worse, at which point I started looking for a used CVT. I got one for $1,200 from a 2006 that already had 120,000 miles on it, and I've since put an additional 166,000 miles. So this junkyard pick has 286.000 miles on it.

Only one of the five transfer cases was actually bad. It started making horrible grinding noises when placed into AWD as a test of the system, and then it began leaking a few months later. In the past with my MO, Nissan's standard procedure was to replace the transfer case when replacing a bad CVT, which is why I have so many TC replacements. I'm not sure if that's still their practice. If so, it makes replacing the CVT more expensive if out of warranty. If going with a dealer replacement where there's no warranty coverage, you could probably ask to forgo the added expense of a new transfer case (if your MO is AWD) and just have them do the CVT. They'll either decline the work or possibly refuse to warranty the new CVT.

I haven't had a CVT lock up abruptly. The worst that happened was frontend vibrations/shuddering/juddering and a loss of power where I had to pull off the road and wait to be car-carried.

EDIT: I seem to recall one time on a flat road I started losing the ability to drive forward (loss of power) and I stopped, put MO in R and drove backwards for a little ways to a safer place to park. Not sure if I could have driven for miles in R, but it's something to remember if MO starts to die and you're in a bad area or stranded. Try R, just in case it can get you to a safer place to pull over and call for help.
 

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BTW, I also seem to recall the sound from the front of the car became louder when the CVT started to fail. I think it was like a deep growling sound that seemed to fill the entire cabin...not quite deafening but it did feel all-encompassing.
 
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