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If you use the factory lube and simply drain and refill, you won't hurt anything.
we checked Europe’s data for murano service it’s got nothing written down for CVT fluid change :( my mechanic said just chill out and ride the fluid seems clear no burning smells or bad/late shifting I mean it listens always.. we notice one issue it sort of wiggles the car when u shifting but looks like the mount is coming to the end so need to change that. But fluid I’m really worried to change it…. I mean it turns blue or purple over night on the tissue so I think previous owner has changed it. Big mistake made didn’t ask about the CVT fluid service if he done that ever because he seemed like a car guy he had a hidden little sneaky JDM in his front yard….. but anyways i leave my opinion here , if it’s high mileage drives well don’t touch the fluid. Because I touched my old car fluids though was doing a great job well guess what it failed after 20k miles ;(
 

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Who makes NS-3 for Nissan? Just wondering.


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From my study idemitsu, NAPA has it, also amazon. Unless you are cleaning all the trans coolers, overhauling the transmission and replacing friction materials, and a new/ reman converter, putting anyother fluid in a transmission other than factory fill, you are then mixing fluids, there are a lot of reports showing that just because a fluid maker says it meets the spec, it does not mean it has all the proprietary modifiers added to it. I would never mix fluids in a CVT especially these finicky Jatco units. Essentially what your doing is a long term experiment on your transmission. Always return to these forums to let us know how the test worked out.
 

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Try the 'Project Farm', on youtube. While not scientific, the bloke did a 'competition' of various engine oils, Amsoil being one. There are a few clips in the series of face offs, I think this is the finale and provides a summary comparison of all oils tested.
Project Farm is the BEST. the guy buys all the stuff he tests... and its a great channel for comparisons... the oil challenge was great. check it out people!
 

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Interesting. I'm not sure how his "lubricity test" works, but he may have explained that in an earlier video in the series.

One takeaway from this is that (once again) you can't tell the condition of oil from its color alone. In this test heating appears to darken oil, but doesn't mean it is no longer functional.

However, another takeaway from this is something that I have lived by for a few decades: if you have a turbo vehicle, you should not run anything but synthetic oil with its ability to withstand long use at high temperatures. Example follows...

I bought my 1983 280ZX Turbo in 1990 with 49,000 miles on it. That generation of turbo is only oil cooled; there is no water cooling in that model. The turbo's bushings failed at 54,000 miles, and I'm sure it was because the previous owner had no idea how to take care of a turbo.

I had the turbo rebuilt and the car now has 130,000 miles, including more than a few autocrosses and some track time, and the rebuilt turbo continues to perform flawlessly. IMO the reasons for its longevity are that I use only synthetic oil, I never shut the engine down without cooling it off for two to three minutes after running it on the highway, and even in town I give the turbo around 30 seconds to spin down before I turn off the engine.
 
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