Hello PauldayFog DRL/Turn Signal Installation with pictures.
The following is a walkthrough of the installation of DRL/Turn signals to your fog lights. This should work on any 2015+ Murano. Your mileage may vary. Feel free to ask questions.
First I'll deal with issues that came up and then I'll do a walkthrough of the pictures with the install.
As soon as the box was opened, you could see that there was a issue. First, the assembly replaces the black trim around the fog lights. Both are made with the same soft type plastic. Trim is held on with just 4 tabs that press out against the inside edges of the bumper opening.
1. The bottom edge of both LED trims were bent in along with all the tabs, making it almost a 1/2 inch off. My wife and I were able use a hairdryer on high heat and using oven mitts were able to bend the bottom edge back into position and hold until it cooled into position. We also heated and bent the tabs into their correct positions, comparing it to the removed original trim.
2. The LED part is held to the trim with 2 screws, 1 each at the bottom of the U, and two small molded tabs at the top of the U. These tabs stick up thru small slots at the top of the LED and the tab left sticking out was hot iron sealed down. All four of the tab seals were broken off and the end of the LED U was just kind of hanging there on each trim. After heating and correcting the first problem we were able wiggle the tabs back into the slots so that the LED sat flush on the trim. Any movement caused it to pop apart. So we cleaned the entire area with Denatured Alcohol, wiggled the tabs back into the slots, and while holding the LED tight to the trim, used an industrial strength hot glue gun to lock the two pieces together. Came out solid as a rock and we made it a little more water tight.
Pig-Tails: You'll see me using that term a lot. I learned this technique back in the mid 70's when stereo swap outs were the rage and it was the way that a garage would wire in tow lights to your car. Didn't have kits or these quick electrical taps and such. If done right, it's perfectly safe for low wattage connections, less the 35 watts.
A pig-tail connection is as follows: The wire that you want to insert into the back side of a connector (The side where the wires come out.), strip off between 1/4 and 3/8 inch of the insulation and twist the bare wire to stiffen it. Using a soldering iron (gun) tin the exposed wire cleanly, no lumps or extra solder. Cover the exposed wire with DI-Electric grease to help the contact and prevent corrosion. Using a needle nose pliers grip the wire just above the tinned wire part. Slightly move the existing wire aside and push the tinned wire down into the opening until insulation is down into the connector opening so that no bare wire is exposed. If the wire is the right size, you can actually feel your wire scrapping the metal connector below and making contact. Give a slight tug to make sure it's seated tight. If not, remove it and using the needle nose pliers give the tinned end a small kink and re-insert. If still loose add a little more solder to make it thicker.
This technique can be used on any connector. Try to use the same gauge wire and always use a inline fuse just large enough so that you're not popping fuses on your add on device.
To physically install the LED's first turn the front of the wheel in. Remove the clip at the bottom of the fender. Pull back the plastic trim a little and lift the wheel well liner. The opening is large enough to stick you hand in and a clear view of the back side of the fog light.
Reach in and push the trim tabs out, the top ones push down and the bottom ones push up. The trim pulls out straight. It looks like it wants to come out crocked, but don't let it. It will just bind and you'll have to push in and start again.
Using a short Philips screwdriver remove only the outside screw on the fog light frame. Grab the fog light frame and pull out and down. It will be hard and will only move down a little after it pulls out.
Insert the wire loom dressed LED wire thru the small opening at 2 o'clock (drivers side) as mush as possible while aligning the new trim with the openings. Press in straight until you hear/feel all four of the tabs click into place.
In the fender well, pull on the LED wire gently to get it all in to the fender well. Grab the fog light frame, swing it up and press into position. Install the screw. Connect to ends and use the chassis ground bolt for your ground. Put the fender well liner back into position and clip the trim back into position. Install the clip. Repeat on the other side.
In the engine fuse box you need to remove the top factory wire bundle up out of the box to be able to connect into the harness and keep it looking factory. The bundle is held in with a plastic frame with metal clips below. The clips have to be bent with a small thin screwdriver. You'll bend them back into position once it's apart very easily. Once released, the plastic frame splits in half. Note position and orientation of this plastic frame!!!
Carefully remove the electrical tape back about 3 to 4 inches on the wire loom. DO NOT CUT THE LOOM when removing the tape. Patience is the key. Once you have the tape back locate the split in the wire loom (It's usually on the bottom) and insert the LED wiring up with the existing wiring until the wire looms touch.
Starting an inch back over where the tape was removed, first do several loops around the loom before starting to tape up the loom. When you reach the wire looms at the T, loop the tape down and around the LED loom, over the factory loom and back down around the LED loom again from the other direction before continuing up to where the tape was originally. Reinstall the plastic frame in the correct direction and orientation and press it into place until it clicks. Complete the pig-tail connections. Double check all wiring before starting the car and checking the functions. When finished, put the fuse box cover back on and you are done.
Pic 1 shows where I pig-tailed the LED/Turn signal wiring into the vehicle wiring. This is the engine bay fuse box and I'm using connector E209, pins 10, 11 & 15. Pin 15, the red wire, is power to the LEDs. The pin sends power to the turn signal array on the steering column and is protected by a 10 amp fuse. My red wire pig-tail is drawing 12 watts and is protected by a 1 amp inline fuse. Pins 10 & 11 are the L/R turn signal CAN signals. The yellow and orange wires from the LEDs are pig-tailed here. They don't draw any power, just sense when the circuits are active. They pull down (activate) an electronic relay in the little control box to turn off the LED and turn on the turn signal, drawing power from the 12V.
Pic 2 is a far view of the engine fuse box. Looking at the top by the yellow relays you'll see where I placed documentation of my wire add on. The part circled yellow shows where the wiring harness was pulled from the box, stripped to add the new LED wiring.
Pic 3 shows everything taped backup. #2 shows where the LED harness enter the factory harness. #1 is showing the inline 1 Amp fuse covered with a short piece of 3/4 inch wire loom to hide it.
Pic 4 is showing the driver's side fog light with the LED installed. #1 shows the screw that needs to be removed. #2 shows the wiring coming from the LED and the Ground coming down.
Pic 5 showing #1 the ground properly grounded to a body ground point and #2 just showing the ground wire coming over.
Pic 6 shows the loomed cover wire going over to the passengers side. The top plastic radiator cover has been removed for wire placement.
Pic 7 is the control box stuck on the side. Yellow wires go the LED lights and the red one goes to the factory harness. Once the plastic radiator cover is on you can't see anything.
Pic 8 is of the running LED on DRL mode.
U didn't used any relay, it doesn't blow bulb /fuse.