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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 2005 MO SL with 216k miles. I'm don't have the service records so I'm going to change all the drivetrain fluids. What engine oil should I use? Not sure if they been using synthetic. I live in Minnesota, so temps range from -40F to 110F. The vehicle is in very good condition considering it a MN vehicle. Bought for 2k 馃憤. The CVT drops a bit hard when its warm, hopefully a fluid change will help. Leaks nothing and that 3.5 still has mad pull.
 

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I'd would use synthetic for everything. I did for my '03 with good results (engine oil, power steering fluid, and transfer case and differential fluids.)

For your CVT, and drain/fill with Nissan NS-2 CVT fluid and filter replacement would be a good idea.

That's a lot of miles, but for the price you got it add you should get some good use out it if you treat it gently. Yes, the 3.5 pulls like mad, but I would hesitate to do that too much... The drivetrain components that are probably nearing their end of life, any of them failing would be uneconomic to replace (especially the CVT, and the transfer case if it's an AWD.)
 

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You can find out some of its maintenance history if you purchase a CARFAX report (~$40 I think)

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do I need synthetic in the transfer vase and differential? I found a lucas oil that looks promising. I think it's a conventional GL-5. Also I thought the CVT had no filter.
 

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Do I need synthetic in the transfer vase and differential? I found a lucas oil that looks promising. I think it's a conventional GL-5. Also I thought the CVT had no filter.
I would, extra protection against heat and friction. The transfer case only holds a tiny amount, 5/8 pint... I used Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90.

You can check with @Dan_Lockwood, he mentioned he changed the CVT filter for his 1st gen Murano.

Here's a search for the CVT filter to check out:
 

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Do I need synthetic in the transfer vase and differential? I found a lucas oil that looks promising. I think it's a conventional GL-5. Also I thought the CVT had no filter.
I question the idea of using anything but the factory recommended stuff. "A Lucas oil that looks promising" isn't necessarily the right choice when there is an easy alternative. That transfer case and diff are expensive to replace, and that transfer case only uses a few ounces of oil.

In any case, the answer about synthetics is a definite Yes. You should not be using any lubricants in that vehicle including engine oil and gear oils that aren't synthetics, and when it comes to special assemblies like the CVT, transfer case and diff you would be smart to use only the Nissan recommended fluids.

I'm a big fan of Amsoil, Mobil 1, Redline and other superior synthetics, but in some of the special assemblies like the CVT, I stick with the manufacturer's labeled oils.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I question the idea of using anything but the factory recommended stuff. "A Lucas oil that looks promising" isn't necessarily the right choice when there is an easy alternative. That transfer case and diff are expensive to replace, and that transfer case only uses a few ounces of oil.
The factory recommends 80w90 yet people been using 75w? I cant find a synthetic 80w90.
 

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The factory recommends 80w90 yet people been using 75w? I cant find a synthetic 80w90.
I'm guessing the 75w (cold) weight is due to it being synthetic. It will flow better at cold temperatures. I'm also guessing conventional gear oil would come in 75w if it could without compromising something, but it probably cannot...

The 5w difference is relatively insignificant. However, the superior heat and wear attributes of the synthetic along with cold temperature flow capability are worth the small extra expense IMO, especially for the transfer case.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm guessing the 75w (cold) weight is due to it being synthetic. It will flow better at cold temperatures. I'm also guessing conventional gear oil would come in 75w if it could without compromising something, but it probably cannot...

The 5w difference is relatively insignificant. However, the superior heat and wear attributes of the synthetic along with cold temperature flow capability are worth the small extra expense IMO, especially for the transfer case.
Agreed
 

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I did mine using the lucas 80w-90 conventional. No issues. Get a 12mm offset wrench and rtv for the filler plug on transfer case, it's the only tool that worked for me. Obviously dont pull drain plugs until filler plugs have been removed lol. Oh and use jackstands to level the car especially when refilling. The transfer case doesnt take much to fill, it's really surprising how little it took when compared to the rear diff. I believe I only needed 1 quart in total to complete both jobs and used a hand pump.
 
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