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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I have lowered the AC compressor and managed to remove the bolts for the alternator. My question is how to remove the wires. They are very short and I don’t want to break the clip or plug on the 3 wire connector.

I can see the top of this connection next to the dipstick.

Thanks
Kurt Housh
 

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Hi all,

I have lowered the AC compressor and managed to remove the bolts for the alternator. My question is how to remove the wires. They are very short and I don’t want to break the clip or plug on the 3 wire connector.

I can see the top of this connection next to the dipstick.

Thanks
Kurt Housh
Presumably, you mean the alternator connectors? The B terminal wire (thick black/red wire) is held on by a nut. The 3-wire connector just has a typical locking connector where you press the tab on the top to release it (see below). If you pry out some of the harness fasteners nearby you may be able to get some extra slack. If you're talking about something else, please clarify.

53801
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The 2nd gen is a bit different than gen 1. The compressor bolts are removed and compressor drops down just enough to remove the alternator after flipping it over and jiggling and twisting. The YouTube video is by Chris Kolar. It’s for the 2nd gen.

The alternator plug has a plastic retainer that when pushed sideways allows the plug to be removed. Of course it broke with the slightest touch. Oh well. Everything is back together now. About to start it and see what happens

I got the Denso remanufactured alternator at Napa. They are having a 20% off sale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the response! It is running and charging normally even with the high beams on. The AC is also working. The compressor sits on a rubber hose that I assume is on the low pressure side when it is in the dropped position. I was worried about damaging it.

It would have been helpful to have smaller hands.😅 I used two 3/8” universal joints and every extension I had to get to the top bolt on the alternator. The nut on the B terminal required the 1/4” drive with universal joint to reinstall.

Both idler pulleys towards the front and a mount must be removed to make room but no radiator hoses were removed.

It’s also handy to have a few spare plastic push fasteners. There are 3 different sizes used. Short, medium, and a few fatter ones on the front cover below the bumper.

Overall it’s a frustrating job I hope to never have to do again. Kurt

147k on the original CVT and counting!
 
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