3M Scotchcal
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Yes I did. The material is easy to cut. I used scisors. I have heard horror stories of people using exacto knives after it is on the car...needless to say don't do this, you'll cut the paint. The installation of this stuff is very difficult and I have made lots of mistakes and the materiel is not cheap. But, I've never let that stop me! I want to learn how to do things for myself and this knowledge is worth it to me. But unless your as nuts as I am and willing to pay for your mistakes, go to a professional installer.
3M has a pdf on this stuff that explains the process. Basically it's applied with an alcohol (Wal Mart 70% isopropyl) and water solution 1:3. Get a spray mixing bottle (Lowes). Hose everything down with this solution including your hands and keep hosing. Squegee as you go. The stuff stretches, but that isn't necessarily good, on flat straight surfaces don't put any tension on it or you'll end up with wrinkles. Try to start from the middle (flat place) and work your way out (over corners). Test fit many times before peeling the backing. Don't touch the back once the protective paper is peeled off or it will leave fingerprints. If you do have to touch it, make sure you wet your hands with the solution and be very gentle. Clean the surface from all wax first. If you have ever used silicone or polymer based waxes, get the 3M recommended solvent (prepsol 70 I think). Apply in 72 degrees F or higher...the higher the temperature the faster the solution drys and the adhesive works. So like when it's 90 outside, you better be good and fast. You need to have virtuous patience, great dexterity, fantastic eyes and many hands. Basically part rock, part elf, part eagle and part octopus!
The hood on the Z was easy because it was fairly flat. The hood on the MO is another story. It has many complex curves and is large. My first attempt failed. I'm going to try again but after I have thought this through and maybe when it cools down a little.
3M has a pdf on this stuff that explains the process. Basically it's applied with an alcohol (Wal Mart 70% isopropyl) and water solution 1:3. Get a spray mixing bottle (Lowes). Hose everything down with this solution including your hands and keep hosing. Squegee as you go. The stuff stretches, but that isn't necessarily good, on flat straight surfaces don't put any tension on it or you'll end up with wrinkles. Try to start from the middle (flat place) and work your way out (over corners). Test fit many times before peeling the backing. Don't touch the back once the protective paper is peeled off or it will leave fingerprints. If you do have to touch it, make sure you wet your hands with the solution and be very gentle. Clean the surface from all wax first. If you have ever used silicone or polymer based waxes, get the 3M recommended solvent (prepsol 70 I think). Apply in 72 degrees F or higher...the higher the temperature the faster the solution drys and the adhesive works. So like when it's 90 outside, you better be good and fast. You need to have virtuous patience, great dexterity, fantastic eyes and many hands. Basically part rock, part elf, part eagle and part octopus!
The hood on the Z was easy because it was fairly flat. The hood on the MO is another story. It has many complex curves and is large. My first attempt failed. I'm going to try again but after I have thought this through and maybe when it cools down a little.
Thanks so much for your information. Sincerely appreciated!!!!
BTW, are you getting the material from Xpel? You might want to check other places which also distributes 3M materials for potential lower price. We used a similar material from 3M for our office windows and we found a distributor which we can buy in bulk for a reasonable price.
BTW, are you getting the material from Xpel? You might want to check other places which also distributes 3M materials for potential lower price. We used a similar material from 3M for our office windows and we found a distributor which we can buy in bulk for a reasonable price.
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Is this the same stuff?
If you look on a Murano, on the rear fender, just above the centre (or center, or say the middle) of the tire/wheel (normally quite intimately connected), there is a piece of transparent stuff stuck to the body (in Canada, at least).
There is more of it where the rubber bumpie bits on the opened hatch orifice meet with the actual hatch. The clear stuff is on the hatch; the rubber is on the body (this is the reverse in my Pathfinder, and I only noticed it after 3 years).
This same stuff is under where the rear wiper of the PF sits on the tailgate.
The dealer says this "is" (means it may be) the same stuff from 3M... the stuff that is sold for clear bra/stone chip protection.
Is this the same material?
If so, he warns of it peeling at the edges, which has not happened on my PF, except for where the hatch meets the body.
Dirt gets under the edge, sticks to the adhesive.
If you look on a Murano, on the rear fender, just above the centre (or center, or say the middle) of the tire/wheel (normally quite intimately connected), there is a piece of transparent stuff stuck to the body (in Canada, at least).
There is more of it where the rubber bumpie bits on the opened hatch orifice meet with the actual hatch. The clear stuff is on the hatch; the rubber is on the body (this is the reverse in my Pathfinder, and I only noticed it after 3 years).
This same stuff is under where the rear wiper of the PF sits on the tailgate.
The dealer says this "is" (means it may be) the same stuff from 3M... the stuff that is sold for clear bra/stone chip protection.
Is this the same material?
If so, he warns of it peeling at the edges, which has not happened on my PF, except for where the hatch meets the body.
Dirt gets under the edge, sticks to the adhesive.
You know, several people have said they have clear material on their MOs from the dealer. All I can say is, none of the MO's at my dealer have it. There are a couple areas that look to me like mold marks on both the Z and the MO that may have a second clear coat or other painted material. But it is not the 3M material.
With that said, it is very possible that some dealers do install the 3M clear bras as an option or whatever. I have also heard of dealers making certain options "pseudo-mandatory". IE if you want the car, you have to buy it. I'd bet only a few dealers have the ability to install this themselves, they probably work some deal with an external shop. I know my dealer recommends "Freddies" here in Hunsville for tinting and clear bras.
If the materiel is installed properly and you take care to scrub the right way at the edges when washing/waxing, they do not peel. With that said, it is possible to peel the edges but you have to try to do it as opposed to it doing it on it's own. This stuff is very sticky, beyond that of any other stick-on materiel I've ever seen. But not so sticky that it will pull the paint off when you go to remove it.
I have also heard of spray on clear bras but I have not found any info on it. Could be spraying on additional clear coats, I don't know.
With that said, it is very possible that some dealers do install the 3M clear bras as an option or whatever. I have also heard of dealers making certain options "pseudo-mandatory". IE if you want the car, you have to buy it. I'd bet only a few dealers have the ability to install this themselves, they probably work some deal with an external shop. I know my dealer recommends "Freddies" here in Hunsville for tinting and clear bras.
If the materiel is installed properly and you take care to scrub the right way at the edges when washing/waxing, they do not peel. With that said, it is possible to peel the edges but you have to try to do it as opposed to it doing it on it's own. This stuff is very sticky, beyond that of any other stick-on materiel I've ever seen. But not so sticky that it will pull the paint off when you go to remove it.
I have also heard of spray on clear bras but I have not found any info on it. Could be spraying on additional clear coats, I don't know.
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In regards to: If you look on a Murano, on the rear fender, just above the centre (or center, or say the middle) of the tire/wheel (normally quite intimately connected), there is a piece of transparent stuff stuck to the body (in Canada, at least).
Yes my MO has this too.
Is it exactly like the 3M clear bra I have installed, well it's close to it and may even be it but I can't say for sure.
Yes my MO has this too.
Is it exactly like the 3M clear bra I have installed, well it's close to it and may even be it but I can't say for sure.
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Enforcer, dmako
Maybe it's in Canada that they put the sticky where salt tends to be a problem.
I think it was about 10-20 years ago that I last heard about a spray-on chip-guard. I believe that, at that time, the dealers did it.
If dealers do it, then body shops do it (for less).
The 3Mish stuff that is on both PF and MO is not in the bra area at all.
Maybe it's in Canada that they put the sticky where salt tends to be a problem.
I think it was about 10-20 years ago that I last heard about a spray-on chip-guard. I believe that, at that time, the dealers did it.
If dealers do it, then body shops do it (for less).
The 3Mish stuff that is on both PF and MO is not in the bra area at all.
The big patch in front of the wheels appears to be a mold line/painted on mine. The Z has this too. The strip folded over the edge of the wheel well appears to be the same material I got in the sunrood wind deflector kit. A stick on transparent plastic, but not the same as the 3M.
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278 Posts
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The cost of the Murano kit is $600., not installed, not including mirrors, I believe. Back up in this thread and read the details, the link to the site where it's sold, and the cost of another member's install.
The cost of the Murano kit is $600., not installed, not including mirrors, I believe. Back up in this thread and read the details, the link to the site where it's sold, and the cost of another member's install.
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