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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen,


New member looking to purchase a new Murano SL or Platinum AWD and interested in your experience buying new. I"m specific on what i want. White exterior with light interior (no black interior), preferably no sunroof. I am casually talking to the dealer/dealers on 2 models. The first, an SL,
no sunroof with a price of 36,820 after several listed dealer discounts and rebates. The 2nd, a Platinum model with sunroof priced at 40,900 after dealer discounts and rebates.



This will be an all cash deal. They seem set on not moving off the listed price, but i haven't talked to them in length. Are they firm on their pricing or is there any room to deal. Not in any hurry to buy, just looking for the best cash deal out there. Your experience/suggestions would be appreciated.



metalrain
 

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Gentlemen,


New member looking to purchase a new Murano SL or Platinum AWD and interested in your experience buying new. I"m specific on what i want. White exterior with light interior (no black interior), preferably no sunroof. I am casually talking to the dealer/dealers on 2 models. The first, an SL,
no sunroof with a price of 36,820 after several listed dealer discounts and rebates. The 2nd, a Platinum model with sunroof priced at 40,900 after dealer discounts and rebates.



This will be an all cash deal. They seem set on not moving off the listed price, but i haven't talked to them in length. Are they firm on their pricing or is there any room to deal. Not in any hurry to buy, just looking for the best cash deal out there. Your experience/suggestions would be appreciated.



metalrain
Never, and I say NEVER let them know you're buying with cash. Get your best price (Out the Door) using their financing company and a fake financed pre-approved dollar amount (How much you want to spend.) and company of your choosing.

Once you have that figure (OTD) in writing and paperwork is started, then you "change" your mind and want to pay cash instead.

I did that and part of the discount was using a Nissan loan. So I paid $30K cash and financed the rest. Had to hold the loan a minimum of 4 months, so I paid $12,500 on the first payment and split the last $500 over the last three months. I figured that I paid about $9.00 interest.

Have a good day.
 

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1. Since you are in no hurry, I recommend that you wait until September or October when prices may become more reasonable. However, you will run a risk of not be able to find the vehicle with exact specifications.

2. You should be able to find the price range for the specific vehicle by checking web sites such as TrueCar, etc. in your area. Also, if you are a member of Costco, etc. you may leverage their car buying services.

3. It all comes down to what is your budget limit and how flexible you are. In my experience, "cash buyer" is not in a more privileged position compared to a well qualified non-cash buyer who is more flexible.

Last but not least, we have ladies in the membership here. Please keep that in mind!
 

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My 2017 Platinum costed me 36209.18 cash total (that's converting into USD from the CAD $47700 I paid) They even threw in a paint pen.

I asked for the illuminated door sill but they didnt budge.

I think you could do better then the prices they are offering you.
 

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"They seem set on not moving off the listed price"


Then you should seem set on letting them know you'll shop at other dealerships. Wait a little longer in the year and you'll prob. start seeing sales/rebate offers.
 

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What people don't tell you is that cash vs. credit doesn't matter. The dealer makes the same money. It's irrelevant. A buck is a buck, credit or cash.

What matters is whether you trade, which always costs you money because you can resell the vehicle even if at a slightly lower price than the dealer can. However, trading is convenient.

The deal is the deal. If you have a trade, go ahead and let them know. If not, it's a simpler transaction and it doesn't matter whether you pay cash or not. For that matter, it's a better deal for the dealership if you finance through them, because that way they make some money on the contract.

I find that if I buy in the local area the dealers are already authorized to run the contract through my credit union, meaning that I get the credit union interest rate, the whole deal happens in the dealership, and the dealer makes a few bucks from the credit union. Fair for everyone, no one gets hurt.
 

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I found when I was buying my car, every dealer offered 0% finance. But then again ever car was $4000 more expensive vs cash.

Essentially the dealer makes the same amount everytime. It's just a matter of if you want to give away an additional few thousand to the bank offering the finance.

They say its 0%. Sure it is 0% off your total purchase, but your total purchase was about $4000 more expensive then if you paid cash. Essentially you paid all the interest up front....

Keep that in mind.
 

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A few more things to consider:

Buy from the dealer's stock instead of having them order or search for a vehicle. Dealers will discount an in-stock vehicle more readily than one outside their inventory

Be prepared to buy if you visit the dealership. Dealers will bargain with a buyer over someone who's "looking"

Offer a little less than you wish to pay. If the dealer is willing to bargain, show your flexibility by moving up to your desired price. Even go above that price by a 1000 dollars to let the dealer "win"

Do internet research for the average sale price of the model you want to buy. This is your target price.

If you plan on buying an extended warranty or having the vehicle serviced at the dealer, consider adding a maintenance contract & warranty to your purchase to make the deal more desirable for the dealer. Spending money at the dealership after the sale adds to their bottom line.

Check if the dealer has an internet purchase plan. These often have discounts not available to walk-in buyers.

Bring your trade vehicle if its 7 years old or newer and has 10 000 miles per year or less mileage. Dealers make profits on used cars and may see quick cash if your trade is desirable.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks,


Lots of good ideas and info here. It should be interesting, the nearest Nissan dealer is 130 miles away. The next two closest are 250 miles away,
I will be talking to a dealer end of next week for the first time in person. Thanks for the input!


metalrain
 

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Gentlemen,


New member looking to purchase a new Murano SL or Platinum AWD and interested in your experience buying new. I"m specific on what i want. White exterior with light interior (no black interior), preferably no sunroof. I am casually talking to the dealer/dealers on 2 models. The first, an SL,
no sunroof with a price of 36,820 after several listed dealer discounts and rebates. The 2nd, a Platinum model with sunroof priced at 40,900 after dealer discounts and rebates.



This will be an all cash deal. They seem set on not moving off the listed price, but i haven't talked to them in length. Are they firm on their pricing or is there any room to deal. Not in any hurry to buy, just looking for the best cash deal out there. Your experience/suggestions would be appreciated.



metalrain
Never, and I say NEVER let them know you're buying with cash. Get your best price (Out the Door) using their financing company and a fake financed pre-approved dollar amount (How much you want to spend.) and company of your choosing.

Once you have that figure (OTD) in writing and paperwork is started, then you "change" your mind and want to pay cash instead.

I did that and part of the discount was using a Nissan loan. So I paid $30K cash and financed the rest. Had to hold the loan a minimum of 4 months, so I paid $12,500 on the first payment and split the last $500 over the last three months. I figured that I paid about $9.00 interest.

Have a good day.
So I had a $2k discount by financing with Nissan. Their rate was high (I'm pretty sure the finance guy tack on at least 1% extra that goes to him) so I mentioned that I will refinance with my bank after. He then said that I have to keep the loan at least 4 months before I could refinance, or else I would have to pay the 2k back.

I think this is total BS because none of the documents signed said that I has to keep the loan for a certain period or after so many payments. How would they even get their 2k back? Bill me or add it to my loan I think that the finance guy loses his cut if the loan is refinanced within that period. Anyways, I refinanced 2 weeks later with 3% lower. Didn't received a bill or anything from Nissan. I read other threads that people refinanced as early as a few days once the loan was in the system.

Any know the truth?

To answer the OP's question, I would definitely wait for quarter end and start negotiating a few days before that. Also wait to shop when there are rebates that Nissan is offering.

When I went car shopping I did it a little differently. I email the 5 closest Nissan dealers telling them I am interested in a Nissan murano SL. What's the lowest price they can offer OTD with no trade. Told them I'm looking to close the deal tomorrow so if they have the lowest price out of all the dealers, I'm coming to sign. I also told them "no, I'm not going to give you another dealer's quote and you beat it by a few bucks." Two dealers were really close of each other the other 3 were too high. End up getting $8 of my murano SL.
 

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So I had a $2k discount by financing with Nissan. Their rate was high (I'm pretty sure the finance guy tack on at least 1% extra that goes to him) so I mentioned that I will refinance with my bank after. He then said that I have to keep the loan at least 4 months before I could refinance, or else I would have to pay the 2k back.

I think this is total BS because none of the documents signed said that I has to keep the loan for a certain period or after so many payments. How would they even get their 2k back? Bill me or add it to my loan I think that the finance guy loses his cut if the loan is refinanced within that period. Anyways, I refinanced 2 weeks later with 3% lower. Didn't received a bill or anything from Nissan. I read other threads that people refinanced as early as a few days once the loan was in the system.

Any know the truth?
I took the dealer financing at only half a point higher than my credit union but refi'd after 3 months. Only agreed to dealer financing to get them to knock another $500 off the out the door price. Told them I would be doing so because the dealer rate sucked. At the end, I think he just wanted me to get out of his store. :D
 

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Frankly, if I were going to buy a new car and the nearest dealer was 130 miles away, I'd buy a different brand of new car. (Unless it was a second or third car and not critical for everyday use.)

Nissan makes good cars but certainly has no corner on the market.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yup, when you live in the sticks nothing comes easy. The closest dealer is 130 miles away, the one i will probably buy from is 250 miles away.
Relatively short distance when you can drive for 90 minutes in any direction and see nothing but prairie.



metalrain
 

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So I had a $2k discount by financing with Nissan. Their rate was high (I'm pretty sure the finance guy tack on at least 1% extra that goes to him) so I mentioned that I will refinance with my bank after. He then said that I have to keep the loan at least 4 months before I could refinance, or else I would have to pay the 2k back.

I think this is total BS because none of the documents signed said that I has to keep the loan for a certain period or after so many payments. How would they even get their 2k back? Bill me or add it to my loan I think that the finance guy loses his cut if the loan is refinanced within that period. Anyways, I refinanced 2 weeks later with 3% lower. Didn't received a bill or anything from Nissan. I read other threads that people refinanced as early as a few days once the loan was in the system.

Any know the truth?
I experienced the same as you. It must be a Nissan thing.

I have purchased new Honda’s and Jeeps where dealers are direct through credit unions. Sometimes manufacturers financing is better, sometimes not. I always take the manufacturers rebate over financing. Those dealers will show me options from local banks and credit unions and sometimes beat mine. My credit score is always 800+.

With the two Nissan’s I have purchased the the Dealers really pushed the Nissan financing at a high rate and were unwilling to look at other options, even though they said they were direct with other credit unions. They gave me the b/s that I needed to finance through Nissan to get the rebate, and keep it through them for 90 days, then I could refinance.

Reading the contract there is no such condition.

Also, one dealer pre approved my credit through Nissan finance (ran a credit check). I didn’t buy through them but another dealer. When I told the second dealer I was already approved through Nissan Finance, the said it didn’t matter, and ran a second credit check. Again BS.

If I buy another Nissan I will have my financing arranged first or walk away if they say I have to finance through Nissan to get the rebate.
 

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Good replies all. Yes, I am a single FEMALE who just bought a 2019 AWD Platinum Murano. Love it. Didn’t buy the dealer’s extended warranty though. Finance guy wouldn’t show me the policy up front. Scary. 🙂
 

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Good replies all. Yes, I am a single FEMALE who just bought a 2019 AWD Platinum Murano. Love it. Didn’t buy the dealer’s extended warranty though. Finance guy wouldn’t show me the policy up front. Scary. ��
Smart move. Understand that an "extended warranty" is really just an insurance policy, and has nothing to do with Nissan. Since it's insurance, the seller is betting that the repair costs covered will not exceed the premium you pay. You are, in fact, betting that repair costs WILL exceed the cost of the premium.

If the seller is making that bet, you should reflect on the fact that their actuarial tables indicate they will make a profit on that sale. In other words, they have evidence that they are not going to spend as much on repair under that "warranty" as you pay them in the premium cost.

Do you have evidence that they're wrong? I doubt it.

On a new car, I don't see a reason to buy one. Maybe I would on a Jaguar, Land Rover or Alfa, since they tend to be high maintenance and high cost. But Nissan?? Nope.

I have bought an "extended warranty" on used cars, but only when I had specific knowledge of a common fault in the used car that was likely to cost me $$. For example, I bought an Audi 500 Turbo in 1989, and the shop foreman checked it out and told me he thought there might be a leak in the steering rack, which was a $1000 part (plus labor). The policy was $1500, IIRC. I bought the warranty, and three weeks later had them install a steering rack, which came to about $1700.

But on a new car, you have a manufacturer's warranty, and as long as you are diligent about having any problems dealt with and recorded in your service records, you should be fine. After that warranty expires, find a good independent shop that knows Nissans, and have your work done there - it will be less expensive then the dealership.
 

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Just because I’m female doesn’t mean I’m stupid. I was only making a comment that didn’t require a critical response/tutorial.
 

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Just because I’m female doesn’t mean I’m stupid. I was only making a comment that didn’t require a critical response/tutorial.
No offense meant! I agreed with your decision.

The additional detail is meant for the folks who don't realize that these "warranties" are actually insurance policies. You might be surprised how often this is not understood. This content of this forum stays online and creates a record, and as a mod I keep in mind that future visitors may benefit from the additional detail I provided. I have provided similar explanations in other threads from time to time, and in no case was there any assumption about the OP.

I neither stated nor intended to imply that you are "stupid," which would have been a completely inappropriate assumption on my part. I apologize if the tone seemed inappropriate to you! The content of my response stands.
 

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Just because I’m female doesn’t mean I’m stupid. I was only making a comment that didn’t require a critical response/tutorial.
Ok then. I'm sure you know this is a forum that educates people and others might apricate the knowledge supplied. I'm sure it was nothing personal.

Have a good day.
 
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