[Fred.B]

My 2003 nissan murano starts up fine I got on rode to work and next thing u know the battery light appears and I start losing acceleration and I keep hitting the gas it won't accelerate as I even try to floor the gas pedal text thing you know the battery light leaves then I get acceleration again in the gas... I'm definitely lost I was told I needed a battery it's a brand new one new alternator can't be that because it starts right up if anyone can help please give me any info you have on this truck please

 

[MuranoSL2003]

Your symptoms are that of a bad battery or alternator...

Have both checked to be sure they are performing correctly.

Most likely the brand new alternator you referred to was really a remanufactured alternator. It's not uncommon for them to fail shortly after installation... Have it checked, and have a warranty replacement installed if it's found to be faulty.

 

[I need coffee]

My 2003 nissan murano starts up fine I got on rode to work and next thing u know the battery light appears and I start losing acceleration and I keep hitting the gas it won't accelerate as I even try to floor the gas pedal text thing you know the battery light leaves then I get acceleration again in the gas... I'm definitely lost I was told I needed a battery it's a brand new one new alternator can't be that because it starts right up if anyone can help please give me any info you have on this truck please

It's difficult to understand your post, but the battery charge warning lamp only comes on for two reasons:

1. The alternator is no longer charging the battery (i.e. alternator output has dropped below battery voltage); or
2. The alternator output is excessive (i.e. overcharging).

Thus, you'll want to troubleshoot the charging system and also check the tension of the belt that turns the alternator.

 

[Fred.B]

I took it to AutoZone and got a check on battery and alternator I went a got a brand new battery just because and it's still doing the exact thing...!!!

 

[Fred.B]

Your symptoms are that of a bad battery or alternator...

Have both checked to be sure they are performing correctly.

Most likely the brand new alternator you referred to was really a remanufactured alternator. It's not uncommon for them

Your symptoms are that of a bad battery or alternator...

Have both checked to be sure they are performing correctly.

Most likely the brand new alternator you referred to was really a remanufactured alternator. It's not uncommon for them to fail shortly after installation... Have it checked, and have a warranty replacement installed if it's found to be faulty.

to fail shortly after installation... Have it checked, and have a warranty replacement installed if it's found to be faulty.

 

[Fred.B]

I

 

[Fred.B]

Your symptoms are that of a bad battery or alternator...

Have both checked to be sure they are performing correctly.

Most likely the brand new alternator you referred to was really a remanufactured alternator. It's not uncommon for them to fail shortly after installation... Have it checked, and have a warranty replacement installed if it's found to be faulty.

....... Yea I took it to AutoZone and got both check they both were good but I still went bought a new battery just because nothing changes... It will start right up but battery light shows up and it was accelerate I can switch gears I can put in drive a floor it and it won't do anything then once the battery
leaves like two minutes later I can drive hit the gas and it would then accelerate

 

[MuranoSL2003]

Good, now you know your electrical system is healthy, I think...

However, do you still see the battery light come on when you you lose acceleration?

Next thing to check is to scan for OBD2 error codes.

AutoZone may be able to read CVT error codes, but I would ask them to be sure. Let us know what they say.

The Android app CVTz50 can scan for engine as well as CVT error codes, I highly recommend it:

CVTz50 - Apps on Google Play

To verify CVTz50 compatibility with your ELM327 adapter and vehicle, please use CVTz50 DEMO: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cvtz50.cvtz50demo Main features - Read and clear CVT diagnostic trouble codes - Read and clear engine diagnostic trouble codes - Read and clear CVT...

play.google.com

It's possible it's your throttle or accelerator position sensor. Also check your engine air intake duct for crack, especially in the folds.

 

[I need coffee]

....... Yea I took it to AutoZone and got both check they both were good but I still went bought a new battery just because nothing changes... It will start right up but battery light shows up and it was accelerate I can switch gears I can put in drive a floor it and it won't do anything then once the battery
leaves like two minutes later I can drive hit the gas and it would then accelerate

Did you check the serpentine belt that turns the alternator to make sure it's not too loose? If the belt is loose then it could slip when the engine is under load (e.g. during acceleration) and alternator output would drop. You can find instructions in the service manual linked below.

https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

 

[NelsonAlvarez]

My 2003 nissan murano starts up fine I got on rode to work and next thing u know the battery light appears and I start losing acceleration and I keep hitting the gas it won't accelerate as I even try to floor the gas pedal text thing you know the battery light leaves then I get acceleration again in the gas... I'm definitely lost I was told I needed a battery it's a brand new one new alternator can't be that because it starts right up if anyone can help please give me any info you have on this truck please

Is the thottle body.Most of the time, you should buy a new one for around $ 95 usd. (online). Anyway, it is very easy for replace.

My 2003 nissan murano starts up fine I got on rode to work and next thing u know the battery light appears and I start losing acceleration and I keep hitting the gas it won't accelerate as I even try to floor the gas pedal text thing you know the battery light leaves then I get acceleration again in the gas... I'm definitely lost I was told I needed a battery it's a brand new one new alternator can't be that because it starts right up if anyone can help please give me any info you have on this truck please

It is the warning, dear friend. for throuttle body problem.
Step 1
Locate the throttle body. Follow the fuel line to the housing mounted over the block of the engine. This is the throttle body. The device attached to the throttle body with the wires running to the engine control unit --- ECU --- is the throttle position sensor.
Step 2
Identify the power, ground and signal wires on the TPS. Typically the ground is black, the power is red and the signal wire is a different color, blue for example. However, read the operator's manual to make certain. Rotate the multimeter dial to volts.
Check the reference voltage. This is the voltage running through the circuit between the TPS and the ECU. Touch the negative probe on the multimeter to the negative wire tab on the TPS and the positive probe to the positive tab. The multimeter will display around 5 volts if the TPS is working correctly.
Check signal voltage. Touch the positive probe to the signal wire tab and touch the ground probe to the frame of the car. If the TPS works correctly, the multimeter will display a reading of about 1/2 of a volt. But youn can try cleaning the Trotlle body. Please check on you tube :How to clean the Trottle body. Otherwise you can buy new one on internet using Amazon for about 95 to 99 dollares, If so, do you need to rename the new TB. If you'll need do that, i can explain to you too. Good luck.

 

[Heitmann2000]

Good, now you know your electrical system is healthy, I think...

However, do you still see the battery light come on when you you lose acceleration?

Next thing to check is to scan for OBD2 error codes.

AutoZone may be able to read CVT error codes, but I would ask them to be sure. Let us know what they say.

The Android app CVTz50 can scan for engine as well as CVT error codes, I highly recommend it:

CVTz50 - Apps on Google Play

To verify CVTz50 compatibility with your ELM327 adapter and vehicle, please use CVTz50 DEMO: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cvtz50.cvtz50demo Main features - Read and clear CVT diagnostic trouble codes - Read and clear engine diagnostic trouble codes - Read and clear CVT...

play.google.com

It's possible it's your throttle or accelerator position sensor. Also check your engine air intake duct for crack, especially in the folds.

I am going through these same issues on my 2011 Murano.
Had battery tested; said it was fine.
Had Alternator tested; said fine.
Said my starter was bad. I disagreed, it was starting fine if we jumped it. So they put the battery on a charger for several hours. Determined battery was bad. Bought and installed new battery. Battery light and brake light together came back on and would go off but then would flicker on and off. Car will start but when shift into drive it shuts off. Going to replace the alternator next, but at this point I'm so frustrated.

I'm in the St. Louis area and wondered if the cold temps are what caused these issues. Where are you located with your similar issues?

I bought this Murano used 3 years ago and it's been full of issues. I think I bought a problem... Lol.

 

[MuranoSL2003]

Your symptoms indicate you most likely have an alternator or battery issue... My guess is your alternator based on what you have posted.

Make sure the battery terminal are totally free of corrosion and snug.

Have both you battery and alternator checked at another place. It sounds like the place you went to got the battery diagnose wrong at first, I wouldn't trust their alternator diagnose... What place was it?

Cold weather shouldn't matter if both your battery and alternator are performing optimally. It will, however, further exasperate an existing issue...

 

[MuranoSL2003]

Also, have your Murano scanned for error codes, and post them here.

 

[NelsonAlvarez]

I am going through these same issues on my 2011 Murano.
Had battery tested; said it was fine.
Had Alternator tested; said fine.
Said my starter was bad. I disagreed, it was starting fine if we jumped it. So they put the battery on a charger for several hours. Determined battery was bad. Bought and installed new battery. Battery light and brake light together came back on and would go off but then would flicker on and off. Car will start but when shift into drive it shuts off. Going to replace the alternator next, but at this point I'm so frustrated.

I'm in the St. Louis area and wondered if the cold temps are what caused these issues. Where are you located with your similar issues?

I bought this Murano used 3 years ago and it's been full of issues. I think I bought a problem... Lol.

When the dash show the baterry and brake light you have not to change the battery, first. Please readout the codes in you car using scanner. You and other need to know first the code you car repot. Also. with the scanner Erase the codes. Drive about 15 minuts and check if any code continue. If so we'll make the next step. Good luck

 

[NelsonAlvarez]

I am going through these same issues on my 2011 Murano.
Had battery tested; said it was fine.
Had Alternator tested; said fine.
Said my starter was bad. I disagreed, it was starting fine if we jumped it. So they put the battery on a charger for several hours. Determined battery was bad. Bought and installed new battery. Battery light and brake light together came back on and would go off but then would flicker on and off. Car will start but when shift into drive it shuts off. Going to replace the alternator next, but at this point I'm so frustrated.

I'm in the St. Louis area and wondered if the cold temps are what caused these issues. Where are you located with your similar issues?

I bought this Murano used 3 years ago and it's been full of issues. I think I bought a problem... Lol.

When the dash show the baterry and brake light you have not to change the battery, first. Please readout the codes in you car using scanner. You and other need to know first the code you car repot. Also. with the scanner Erase the codes. Drive about 15 minuts and check if any code continue. If so we'll make the next step. Good luck

Take note of this. When the Brake and Battery signals appear, it means that the Throttle body is about to fail. You should not change anything on your car now. Please. Get the codes out in a workshop and print them out. Then delete the codes using the scanner.

 

[NelsonAlvarez]

Take note of this. When the Brake and Battery signals appear, it means that the Throttle body is about to fail. You should not change anything on your car now. Please. Get the codes out in a workshop and print them out. Then delete the codes using the scanner.

 

[Michaelllanders4394]

My 2003 nissan murano starts up fine I got on rode to work and next thing u know the battery light appears and I start losing acceleration and I keep hitting the gas it won't accelerate as I even try to floor the gas pedal text thing you know the battery light leaves then I get acceleration again in the gas... I'm definitely lost I was told I needed a battery it's a brand new one new alternator can't be that because it starts right up if anyone can help please give me any info you have on this truck please

I have a 2009 Murano, and something similar happened to me....after having the battery replaced and the alternator evaluated, 3 times.
The problem was finally found to be the ground from the battery to the chassis was weak/rusty, I cleaned up all the ground wires that I could find.... battery, relays, etc...and then noticed that the transmission housing had a vacuum leak, and I replaced all vacuum hoses and my Murano runs like new. 133,000 miles and 31.0mpg at 40 and mph with 1100rpms smooth shifting

 

[J5ingh]

I took it to AutoZone and got a check on the battery and alternator I went a got a brand new battery just because and it's still doing the exact thing...!!!

Please check the battery wire clamps on terminals. they got loose after the use of many years. I stick a penny between the terminal and clamp now it's tight and no issues.