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Discussion Starter #1
It eventually starts but not usually before I've killed the battery. THEN it runs in a low power mode (won't rev above 2k RPM, until I let it warm up and restart it, then fine. Above 20 degrees, no problem. Just had plugs replaced (for an exorbitant amount of labor money!), as local mechanic thought that might be the issue, they were bad, but its still not starting. Got a code reader, Been pulling live data, don't really know if anything seems off. Any advice? I have live data videos should I post them? I don't have any error codes at the moment.
 

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Sounds like a battery that's nearing the end of its life... Have you had your battery load tested?

Also have your alternator output tested as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Battery is just getting beat from the repeated non starts. Don't think thats the main problem. I'm more concerned with the car not starting when its below 20 after 8 hours of non use. It used to start on the first crank. I do keep a trickle charge on it of late though. Thanks for the reply!
 

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Repeatably draining the battery will decrease it capacity and lifespan. Temperatures of 20 degrees will also reduce the battery's capacity. Today's cars with computer engine controls require a battery in good condition to function normally. I've heard reports that even though a battery may crank over an engine, there may not be enough juice left for all the computer controlled stuff to function normally if the battery is too depleted...

How old is your battery?

I'd start by having confirming your battery is good by getting it load tested. Also have your alternator checked. If the starting problem persists with a good battery, then it's time to troubleshoot further...
 

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It eventually starts but not usually before I've killed the battery. THEN it runs in a low power mode (won't rev above 2k RPM, until I let it warm up and restart it, then fine. Above 20 degrees, no problem. Just had plugs replaced (for an exorbitant amount of labor money!), as local mechanic thought that might be the issue, they were bad, but its still not starting. Got a code reader, Been pulling live data, don't really know if anything seems off. Any advice? I have live data videos should I post them? I don't have any error codes at the moment.
Have you replaced the brake ignition switch or at least uninstall/reinstall in case there is simply a connection issue from the start button? This sounds very familiar to my situation last year. I replaced three batteries because intermittently I couldn’t get it to start unless I got it boosted or repeatedly hit the start button fast like I was playing a video game until it caught. Lol. The ignition switch/wiring (switch by the brake pedal second from the floor) was my root cause and not the batteries after all. Good luck
 

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Battery is just getting beat from the repeated non starts. Don't think thats the main problem. I'm more concerned with the car not starting when its below 20 after 8 hours of non use. It used to start on the first crank. I do keep a trickle charge on it of late though. Thanks for the reply!
I have to agree with previous suggestions to actually load-test the battery just to rule that out with certainty. Also, it appears that you're in a rust belt state so check the battery ground connection from the negative terminal all the way back to wear it attaches to the CVT for excessive corrosion.

Other thoughts--check alternator output as previously suggested, but also check the condition of the drive belt as well as check that the tension is within specification (there are marks on the auto-tensioner although not easy to see ). Have you checked the live data on your scanner before trying to start the car to see if any values look weird? If you have live data videos while the car is acting up then post them although not sure how helpful they'll be.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Repeatably draining the battery will decrease it capacity and lifespan. Temperatures of 20 degrees will also reduce the battery's capacity. Today's cars with computer engine controls require a battery in good condition to function normally. I've heard reports that even though a battery may crank over an engine, there may not be enough juice left for all the computer controlled stuff to function normally if the battery is too depleted...

How old is your battery?

I'd start by having confirming your battery is good by getting it load tested. Also have your alternator checked. If the starting problem persists with a good battery, then it's time to troubleshoot further...
Battery is 2. Will do on the load test/alternator. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have to agree with previous suggestions to actually load-test the battery just to rule that out with certainty. Also, it appears that you're in a rust belt state so check the battery ground connection from the negative terminal all the way back to wear it attaches to the CVT for excessive corrosion.

Other thoughts--check alternator output as previously suggested, but also check the condition of the drive belt as well as check that the tension is within specification (there are marks on the auto-tensioner although not easy to see ). Have you checked the live data on your scanner before trying to start the car to see if any values look weird? If you have live data videos while the car is acting up then post them although not sure how helpful they'll be.
I'll make some videos of my live data to post.

Something new I noticed. If I put the car in START/ACCESSORY mode (read this tip on the internet) but don't crank it and let it sit for 2 mins, IT STARTS! Is that indicating a fuel pump priming issue? What else could that mean?
 

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I'll make some videos of my live data to post.

Something new I noticed. If I put the car in START/ACCESSORY mode (read this tip on the internet) but don't crank it and let it sit for 2 mins, IT STARTS! Is that indicating a fuel pump priming issue? What else could that mean?
You might have something there. If you can park in a quiet garage, hitting the start button two times without your foot on the brake will start the fuel pump. If the fuel system is loosing pressure over night, you should be able to hear the fuel pump louder at first until it builds pressure (about 50 lb.) for a second or two. The longer the pump is loud when starting might be an indication of how worn the fuel pump is.

Also, don't count out a weak/failing fuel injector, which can leak over night (8 hours), causing the same symptoms.

If unable to hear the fuel pump, test by hitting the start button two times without pressing the brake pedal, wait 3 seconds, press the brake pedal then hit the start button. If it starts, you more then likely have a fuel pressure issue.

Hope this helps you out.

Have a good day.

PS In a garage, they disconnect the fuel line from the injector rails and put a pressure gauge there instead. After running the pump to pressure, they let it set to see what/if the pressure drop rate is. If it holds pressure, then they know that there might be an injector issue.
 

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I had this issue on my 2010. After doing some research, several people said it might be the battery and one person said they got a good strong battery from Interstate battery. I decided to try that first and got one from Interstate Battery. I have not had a start issue since. Apparently these cars take a lot of battery power and the least little thing wrong like a not dead battery but not brand new battery causes issues.
 

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I had a battery problem a few weeks ago. I picked up my new used 2010 Murano from the warm state of Texas. Its Interstate Battery was only 30 months old, so I was surprised it wouldn't start after leaving it out in the Iowa cold for awhile.

I took it to our Interstate Battery shop and they asked if the car had keyless entry. Apparently, a stronger battery is required due to the higher demand on the battery at startup. They said that the wrong replacement battery was installed in Texas and offered a 25% discount on a new (correct) battery. No more problems.

If it's your fuel pump, the engine will continue to crank. If it's your battery, it won't turn over.
 

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I had the same problem last month when temperature drops a lot one night. (I am in Montana and the car was not parked in the garage that night.)
Replaced the battery, problem solved. (I haven't changed the battery since I got the car five years ago)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You might have something there. If you can park in a quiet garage, hitting the start button two times without your foot on the brake will start the fuel pump. If the fuel system is loosing pressure over night, you should be able to hear the fuel pump louder at first until it builds pressure (about 50 lb.) for a second or two. The longer the pump is loud when starting might be an indication of how worn the fuel pump is.

Also, don't count out a weak/failing fuel injector, which can leak over night (8 hours), causing the same symptoms.

If unable to hear the fuel pump, test by hitting the start button two times without pressing the brake pedal, wait 3 seconds, press the brake pedal then hit the start button. If it starts, you more then likely have a fuel pressure issue.

Hope this helps you out.

Have a good day.

PS In a garage, they disconnect the fuel line from the injector rails and put a pressure gauge there instead. After running the pump to pressure, they let it set to see what/if the pressure drop rate is. If it holds pressure, then they know that there might be an injector issue.
Thanks for the response.
Definitely think fuel pressure is the issue. When it cranks, it cranks STRONG...it just dies before the pressure comes up. So far, every time I push the start button without brake and let it sit for 1 minute or so, it starts right up. Gonna wait till spring and do a pressure test on that line if I can. Can a dying fuel pump react like this because of the cold? It's fine when in the 40s.
 

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Thanks for the response.
Can a dying fuel pump react like this because of the cold? It's fine when in the 40s.
Seals tend to shrink when cold. With that info, you'll have to test pressure under those conditions to determine if it's the fuel pump itself or an injector seal leaking when cold.

Yup, it's a ***** working outside when it's below 40, but sometimes ya just gotta bite the bullet. Dress warm and keep the hands dry from gas.

Have a good day.

So I guess a female dog in heat isn't a *****!
 

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Thanks for the response.
Definitely think fuel pressure is the issue. When it cranks, it cranks STRONG...it just dies before the pressure comes up. So far, every time I push the start button without brake and let it sit for 1 minute or so, it starts right up. Gonna wait till spring and do a pressure test on that line if I can. Can a dying fuel pump react like this because of the cold? It's fine when in the 40s.
Unfortunately, Nissan doesn't make it easy to do a fuel pressure check since you need a special adapter that goes inline with the fuel rail (~$50). You say this issue occurs at start-up, but do you notice any issues with how the engine runs while driving (e.g. lack of power, rough idle, etc.)?
 

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It eventually starts but not usually before I've killed the battery. THEN it runs in a low power mode (won't rev above 2k RPM, until I let it warm up and restart it, then fine. Above 20 degrees, no problem. Just had plugs replaced (for an exorbitant amount of labor money!), as local mechanic thought that might be the issue, they were bad, but its still not starting. Got a code reader, Been pulling live data, don't really know if anything seems off. Any advice? I have live data videos should I post them? I don't have any error codes at the moment.
Same issue with my 2009 MO. Do you have a lot of mile and or KMs on it? I am at 137k miles on mine. Looking at the service manual I should have already had the plugs done on it. When I looked at my MO's computer I can see certain cylinders with misfire counts while others have none.

When my MO refuses to crank in the super cold temps I found when I mush the accelerator peddle a few times, stop the engine from cranking wait about 10 seconds and start again the engine starts turn and stall and eventual starts. Mind you if you open the door or window you will smell the gas coming out the exhaust.

I have tried cleaners, nothing helps. The only cleaner that does anything for me is the Dura Lube Severe Cat and Exhaust cleaner when my bank 2 cat gave me problems. It works so well that when I run a tank with the stuff the error goes away on its own.
 

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It eventually starts but not usually before I've killed the battery. THEN it runs in a low power mode (won't rev above 2k RPM, until I let it warm up and restart it, then fine. Above 20 degrees, no problem. Just had plugs replaced (for an exorbitant amount of labor money!), as local mechanic thought that might be the issue, they were bad, but its still not starting. Got a code reader, Been pulling live data, don't really know if anything seems off. Any advice? I have live data videos should I post them? I don't have any error codes at the moment.
I would also check and see if there are any transmission codes on your MO. There is a guy on YT who had to change his speed sensor on the transmission because he was getting a code, the result was the car would crank but shutter when trying to run or just not run at all. After he replaced the speed sensor the issue went away.

I have this same error on my MO, but in my OBD2 sensor it gives me other options to check and see if they need fixing before going down the path of the speed sensor as its its on in the back near the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Unfortunately, Nissan doesn't make it easy to do a fuel pressure check since you need a special adapter that goes inline with the fuel rail (~$50). You say this issue occurs at start-up, but do you notice any issues with how the engine runs while driving (e.g. lack of power, rough idle, etc.)?
I do notice a slight lack of power when its that cold too after it starts.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Same issue with my 2009 MO. Do you have a lot of mile and or KMs on it? I am at 137k miles on mine. Looking at the service manual I should have already had the plugs done on it. When I looked at my MO's computer I can see certain cylinders with misfire counts while others have none.

When my MO refuses to crank in the super cold temps I found when I mush the accelerator peddle a few times, stop the engine from cranking wait about 10 seconds and start again the engine starts turn and stall and eventual starts. Mind you if you open the door or window you will smell the gas coming out the exhaust.

I have tried cleaners, nothing helps. The only cleaner that does anything for me is the Dura Lube Severe Cat and Exhaust cleaner when my bank 2 cat gave me problems. It works so well that when I run a tank with the stuff the error goes away on its own.
Since I'm not hearing the fuel pump (at least I don't think I can) I'm starting to think it may be that injector seal folks have mentioned.
I did try that CAT cleaner stuff when it was throwing bank 2 CAT and O2 codes.....seemed to do the trick too, error went away. Effing CATS suck...such problems in the northeast US.
I can sure fire start it if I do the mash start button twice w/o brake, wait 30-60 secs. trick. :)
 

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Since I'm not hearing the fuel pump (at least I don't think I can) I'm starting to think it may be that injector seal folks have mentioned.
I did try that CAT cleaner stuff when it was throwing bank 2 CAT and O2 codes.....seemed to do the trick too, error went away. Effing CATS suck...such problems in the northeast US.
I can sure fire start it if I do the mash start button twice w/o brake, wait 30-60 secs. trick. :)
What codes were you getting? Also, you said earlier that you had some live data you wanted to post?
 
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