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Someone mentioned a Mobil-1 oil filter in another thread. Are they available for the MO? What is the best filter for the MO? Is there any engineering data to evaluate filters by? (Pore size, filter element surface area, etc.)

TIA.
 

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The OEM Nissan filter is solidly constructed and has a good filtering element. I would stick with that, since its also rather inexpensive (around $5).
 

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I would however NOT stick with it if you plan on trying extended drain intervals. The Pure One filter should be about the same price and It is definately better than the OEM.
 

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WindsorFox said:
I would however NOT stick with it if you plan on trying extended drain interval.

The Pure One filter should be about the same price and It is definately better than the OEM.
AND your logic for extended oil interval ? You know more than Nissan Enginners ?

Save $20 Oil/filter and risk $10,000 engine.

What is your basis for that confidence that Pure one is definately better, any scientific study or that is is painted in an attractive color.
 

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I am not going to go into extended oil drain intervals here with you. There are several oil filter reports on the Internet. As for Nissan engineers, I seriously doubt they have much to do with the manufacture of the oil filter Nissan puts their name on, I assume you are aware that Nissan does not make oil filters. The Pure One filter is better than the any OEM filter you can buy from a dealer except for the Ford filter which is a Pure One filter. That is without reguard to the color it is painted. I practice extended drain intervals therefore I use the Amsoil filter, which is also manufactured to much stricter tolerances than any OEM filter made.

Edit: Oh, and I have been practicing extended drains on my Mustang for about 5 years and that includes all drag racing and Solo2 events.
 

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Does it really cost less to do extended drain intervals with Amsoil than it does to go with Mobil One/ Nissan OEM filter every 5000-7000 miles?
 

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I stuck with OEM fitlers for everything with my '89 Pulsar. I got over 225K on it before I donated it (body rust) and still to that day that car did not loose a drop of oil.

I'll use the OEM with the MO and change every 75-100 HRS of use. (Using Trip #2 on the LCD display is great for tracking engine run time in stead of milleage.)
 

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Why go extended interval oil change?

Isnt having fresh oil juice in our MO guarantee cleaner engine, and better performance?

3,750 miles is service interval 1, i recall.

Also, oil change is relatively cheap, bring my own castrol syntec or valvoline synncpower oil ($18) and oem filter plus labor ($30).
Total around $50? ( i know i can go jiffy lube for $25

Anyway, it cost like 2 gas fillups at shell...No biggy right? :4:

PS:
Mercedes benz is developing inteligent oil change interval: Meaning, it will automatically do analysis on your oil in the engine real time. It will flag you when it need to be replaced, so the interval varies as your driving style, conditions, climate, ambient temp etc.. Noble in intentions, but how reliable is this "extended interval" ?
 

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Re: Why go extended interval oil change?

SugarRushMurano said:
Isnt having fresh oil juice in our MO guarantee cleaner engine, and better performance?

Noble in intentions, but how reliable is this "extended interval" ?
Not necessarily. A good filter would be more important, but I don't expect anyone here to particularly believe me. As for reliability, I know several people who witha bypass filter addition have run the same oil for 50,000 miles or more. I have practiced 1 year intervals on my Mustang since the third oil change I put on it. Also, Sytec is not real synthetic oil, it's hydrocracked bean oil and it left varnish build up in the Mustang. The original owner used it and changed every 4000-5000 miles and I found the build up when I replaced the cam.
 

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Another reason to change oil is to remove any moisture that has accumulated in the oil if the car has been but through short drives. An oil filter no matter which one will not help with this.
 

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Don't know.
But Amsoil and another outfit build a "bypass" oil filter that is "claimed" to remove the water you are talking about from oil.

My question would be, what happens to tat water that the bypass filter traps????

Like I say, I don't know.

I DO know that one HP trick on new cars is to run a cold thermostat.
This lowers the operating temp of the engine and the ECU will run the mixture a little rich.
This in turn will produce a measurable HP increase.
A BAD byproduct of doing this is increased water in your oil.
But If you run standard thermostats, the water vapor in your crankcase is burned off due to the high temps.

Homer
 

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I run a lower temp thermostat in my other car...

and yes it does gain a 'lil'tle pull' of HP.

However, my main motivation is not the HP.
The new thermostat will do the engine good in channeling the coolant when summer, because i used to drive hard during those times.

Yes, the oil of the car seems become 'light' pretty fast (because of the wator vapor like u said perhaps)..That is why i changed the oil every 3500miles , eventhough it is M1 0W40 synthetic.
 

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Redbeard said:
Lottery: a tax on people who are bad at math
TIA.
This line caught my attention.
Pennsylvania has a Cash 5 lottery. The minimum Jackpot is $100,000. Yesterdays numbers were 5,10,15,20 & 25. Something like 500 people hit it. They each got $450. Bad Math!
 

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Re: Re: Best oil filter for the MO?

MVTCFP said:


This line caught my attention.
Pennsylvania has a Cash 5 lottery. The minimum Jackpot is $100,000. Yesterdays numbers were 5,10,15,20 & 25. Something like 500 people hit it. They each got $450. Bad Math!
Heh, yeah. My school system is trying to privatize my job, all of maintinence, but I do alarm systems and security. Bad move. Anyway, a consulting company came in once and got paid mega bugs to save money. They came up with a brilliant plan to pay everyone more salary and save a ton of money. After months of work we all goto the auditorium to listen this proposal and they start talking. after 8 minutes of reading and talking they stop and start whispering over stuff and the meeting is mysteriously adjourned. Oops, they added up hours and multiplied by days and the only way their plan would work is if each employee with a big raise only worked one hour a day. BAD MATH! I wonder if the board ever got their money back? :D
 

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Everyone might find this site interesting. This guy dissected a number of oil filters and gives a run down on each. I was surprised on how many are made by the same manufacturer (insides the same, different name on the can).

Oil Filter Study

I did not read the whole article but Mobil 1 seems to be a pretty good filter.

Personally, I feel that regular oil & filter changes are cheap insurance against excessive engine wear and possible premature failure. However, I have gone 5,000 to 8,000 miles between oil changes on all my other cars and they all went way over 130,000 miles with no engine damage whatsoever (one went to 190K). I hate to admit it, but I let an interval slip to 15K miles once (yikes!) with no ill effects (at least from what I could tell from the way the engine ran). When I sold those cars, they were still in excellent running condition, too.

I always used OEM filters and Mobil 1 [later switching to Syntec] on those vehicles and never had any problems despite all the con's I have read about using synthetics. It gets really cold in Chi-town winters and the synthetics make for easier starts. I'm going to wait until my MO reaches 10K miles then switch to Mobil 1. Again, that's strictly a personal choice based on previous experience.
 

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oil filter - $11.99, oil - $19.82.

do-it-yourself and you have a deal.

Change - every 5K or so.

Engine loves it:)
 

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Oil : $38.90 Filter : $13.55
Change every 35,000 miles or so
Amsoil : $52.45
Mobil 1 : $222.67 Plus a lot more time and waste. :D

BTW, this is kind of an unfair comparison as the Mobil 1 actually compares more to the standard 5-30 Amsoil which costs less but has a rated drain period of 25K miles.
 

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Actually you could push Mobil1 to 15k easily. However, I'd like to be on a safe side.

35k - personally I would not risk it..............is not worth it...........

I am more concern with engine wear that with cost of oil.

But it is me, others may have different opinions...........hey, world is not boring, is it:D
 

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Kris said:
Actually you could push Mobil1 to 15k easily. However, I'd like to be on a safe side.

35k - personally I would not risk it..............is not worth it...........

I am more concern with engine wear that with cost of oil.

But it is me, others may have different opinions...........hey, world is not boring, is it:D
I've seen tests that say Mobil 1 is easily good for 12K miles but Mobil won't say that until the EPA makes them. That's less profit. I've run 1 year drains for a long time and my analasys is clean.
 
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