has anyone experience their cd player dying. The radio works fine but when you switch to CD function the display reads "press eject". When the eject button is pressed my one cd does not come out and an audible motor sound runs for a few seconds then stops and the system powers down. A new deck is on order through nissan, but it seem (according to the service advisor) that this happens alot with murano and altima. I'm thinking this is going to happen again, hence it would be nice to find out what is causing this. The advisor also mensioned that CD-RW may be the reason; Sure enough I was playing a burned CD from my Roxio softwear. Is this a case of a defective player or is it a matter of CD-RW corrupting the system. Is this possible. The advisor also mensioned something about cd-rw's having a different thickness than an original cd, and thus jamming up the mechanism.
Boze - CD player stuck
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Bose CD unit
Thanks for the link Gripper, but my issue was not with skipping. The entire mechanism was jammed on disc 4. The mechanism was litterally stuck and would not play or eject, just made a buch of noise and read "press eject".
Well nissan has somehow fixed the problem without changing the deck. The service advisor said a new deck was on order, had come in, and then installed. Well that was just bull because I left some evidence on the faceplate and it was still there after the repair; I haven't said anything about that yet since the player does work fine now.
However, does anyone know if the cd unit is a separate box from the rest of the radio unit behind the face or something. Is it possible that they could have changed the cd portion only and leaving everything else. I had one disc stuck before the appointment and now that disk is gone and there appears to be some evidence of prying or something at the slot to insert the discs.
I'm confused. Did I get a new cd unit or not. The service advisor sais I did. I'm not so sure, hmmm
Thanks for the link Gripper, but my issue was not with skipping. The entire mechanism was jammed on disc 4. The mechanism was litterally stuck and would not play or eject, just made a buch of noise and read "press eject".
Well nissan has somehow fixed the problem without changing the deck. The service advisor said a new deck was on order, had come in, and then installed. Well that was just bull because I left some evidence on the faceplate and it was still there after the repair; I haven't said anything about that yet since the player does work fine now.
However, does anyone know if the cd unit is a separate box from the rest of the radio unit behind the face or something. Is it possible that they could have changed the cd portion only and leaving everything else. I had one disc stuck before the appointment and now that disk is gone and there appears to be some evidence of prying or something at the slot to insert the discs.
I'm confused. Did I get a new cd unit or not. The service advisor sais I did. I'm not so sure, hmmm
I have been having my own problems with the CD player and will be back at the dealership for the FIFTH time tomorrow. I'll spare you all the details (but I'm not sparing the details from NNA or from the dealership's owner), but in the process, I've seen that there are, indeed, two parts: the "faceplate" (the part that has the knobs, the buttons for the NAV system or trip computer, etc.), and the head unit, which contains the radio, CD player and cassette deck. The two connect, I believe, by a ribbon cable. So, your dealer certainly could have changed out the CD changer (probably completely replaced the head unit) without disturbing the faceplate that you marked.
Tex
Tex
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Radio and CD separate.
NEVER NEVER use anything but a normal production CD. You might get aways with it a few times but finally you are in trouble. On my Infinity G35. The local dealer, Made sure that a typed piece of paper was in every new car delivered. "USE OF NON FACTORY CD'S VOIDS WARRANTY ON AUDIO SYSTEM"
The dealer will replace it hopefully, when they see the R or RW you need to hope their is no problem,, Most likely won't be, But word to the wise.
NEVER NEVER use anything but a normal production CD. You might get aways with it a few times but finally you are in trouble. On my Infinity G35. The local dealer, Made sure that a typed piece of paper was in every new car delivered. "USE OF NON FACTORY CD'S VOIDS WARRANTY ON AUDIO SYSTEM"
The dealer will replace it hopefully, when they see the R or RW you need to hope their is no problem,, Most likely won't be, But word to the wise.
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I use CDR's all the time. You do have to watch the labels though, both that they're securly on and they don't have too much black. (Black may have carbon, which lubricates and the mechanism struggles with them.)
My favourite track is the one called "BRAKE FAILURE".
I love it when that appears on the display with someone who's not seen it before.:19:
My favourite track is the one called "BRAKE FAILURE".
I love it when that appears on the display with someone who's not seen it before.:19:
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I thnik you have been lucky or your CDR writer does a better job than most (I would expect that the JAAK would have a technically superior unit)
I don't think the unit in the Infiniti is different than the one in the M, But I could be wrong. My neighbour who I bought a 03 MO for right when they came out, had his player replaced after telling me BS about my G35 and the dealer said that was why his was foulded up, (but then, we know dealers) , My SLK had to have it's player replaced for using a CRD.
Hey! I could BE WRONG, it's just as they would say MHO.
Suggested reading.
http://www.yamaha.co.jp/english/product/computer/pdf/cdr100.pdf
AND HERE
Q. Why does it take longer to read CD-RW disc than regular CD?
A. The performance of the disc depends on many factors eg. the quality of the disc and the CD recorder. There are so many different types of CD/RW recorder and disc on the market, if the quality is not so good, the performance will also be affected.
The performance depends on the CD recorder and the recording software, as well as the environment eg. temperature, humidity, vibration and static electricity. No player can read all the existing CD-R, CD-RW perfectly.
I don't think the unit in the Infiniti is different than the one in the M, But I could be wrong. My neighbour who I bought a 03 MO for right when they came out, had his player replaced after telling me BS about my G35 and the dealer said that was why his was foulded up, (but then, we know dealers) , My SLK had to have it's player replaced for using a CRD.
Hey! I could BE WRONG, it's just as they would say MHO.
Suggested reading.
http://www.yamaha.co.jp/english/product/computer/pdf/cdr100.pdf
AND HERE
Q. Why does it take longer to read CD-RW disc than regular CD?
A. The performance of the disc depends on many factors eg. the quality of the disc and the CD recorder. There are so many different types of CD/RW recorder and disc on the market, if the quality is not so good, the performance will also be affected.
The performance depends on the CD recorder and the recording software, as well as the environment eg. temperature, humidity, vibration and static electricity. No player can read all the existing CD-R, CD-RW perfectly.
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I should have short changed the Post,
Seems that the Disc Data info on the CDR that tells the Player its info, Type of disk, Data, Audio etc. is more difficult for the regular (not MP3 Player etc/) to decipher than from from a non production disk.
If one of the errors it makes to read that a dis is not even present, It doesn't know what to do. Plus sometimes even turning it off is really only a soft reboot. It takes total power removal to get a hard reboot and truly try it again, no data left in the equivalent of a cache.
Seems that the Disc Data info on the CDR that tells the Player its info, Type of disk, Data, Audio etc. is more difficult for the regular (not MP3 Player etc/) to decipher than from from a non production disk.
If one of the errors it makes to read that a dis is not even present, It doesn't know what to do. Plus sometimes even turning it off is really only a soft reboot. It takes total power removal to get a hard reboot and truly try it again, no data left in the equivalent of a cache.
Thanks Gripper. So CD and Radio can be separated. Then that settles it. My player must be new, however the first thing I did to test it out was insert a CD-RW . Ooops. No point in stopping now I guess, it works fine and all my discs come from the same burner. This is good to know for the future though; when I saw how quickly it took to kill the original player I'm thinking I'll be certainly changing it again when its out of warranty; I thought the entire unit would have to be purchased, but changing only the cd drive is not bad and as pricey. I was able to catch a glimps of the bill my dealer was sending to nissan and it read 57$ cnd for the cd player replacement. Not bad if I ever have to do it in the futur.
Thanks guys
. Ooops. No point in stopping now I guess, it works fine and all my discs come from the same burner. This is good to know for the future though; when I saw how quickly it took to kill the original player I'm thinking I'll be certainly changing it again when its out of warranty; I thought the entire unit would have to be purchased, but changing only the cd drive is not bad and as pricey. I was able to catch a glimps of the bill my dealer was sending to nissan and it read 57$ cnd for the cd player replacement. Not bad if I ever have to do it in the futur.Thanks guys
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Good stick with the same brand, Do you use Memorex Black? And same recorder. Sounds like you and JAAK are lucky as usual. I have always said Good Luck beats a grand plan every day of the week.
Most of my bland CD-R's are Memorex - stuff I got on sale at BB or CompUSA for like $.10 each..
My recent CD's are all burned from a Yamaha burner, the rest from an HP burner...
I don't recommend ever using CD-RW for music - it's a data CD, and also has rewriteable ability, so I think that screws up the lasers in the CD player. If you look at a CD-RW data's side, it's looks bluish, and a unique laser frequency is needed to read and write properly.. won't get into any further detail...
My recent CD's are all burned from a Yamaha burner, the rest from an HP burner...
I don't recommend ever using CD-RW for music - it's a data CD, and also has rewriteable ability, so I think that screws up the lasers in the CD player. If you look at a CD-RW data's side, it's looks bluish, and a unique laser frequency is needed to read and write properly.. won't get into any further detail...
I briefly had exactly the same problem as ADV. Jammed while changing CDs and would not eject or play. I had a couple of stops and starts that afternoon, and it started working again for no apparent reason. No problems since.
I also use many CD-Rs and wonder why it says nothing in my manual if they cause damage?
I also use many CD-Rs and wonder why it says nothing in my manual if they cause damage?
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RTFM, it tells you what physical CD characteristics to avoid.
I've put in known screwed up CD's and it hiccups, coughs, skips, and then gives them back to me when I ask for it, so I can toss it in the nearest trash bin.
Only had problems with disks that are too slippery but the manual tells you to look out for disks that don't have good edges. So they do realise there are limitations on what the changer can handle.
Pretty amazing considering the temperature range they have to operate through.
Jammed while changing CD's sounds like a problem with them being too slippery, and/or a bad edge profile.
I've put in known screwed up CD's and it hiccups, coughs, skips, and then gives them back to me when I ask for it, so I can toss it in the nearest trash bin.
Only had problems with disks that are too slippery but the manual tells you to look out for disks that don't have good edges. So they do realise there are limitations on what the changer can handle.
Pretty amazing considering the temperature range they have to operate through.
Jammed while changing CD's sounds like a problem with them being too slippery, and/or a bad edge profile.
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Just remember, DO NOT put paper labels on your burned CD's!!! They will cause the CD to get stuck in the changer or the CD deck. Or worse....because of the heat generated inside the player it will fully or partially come off and completely gum up the works. An expensive lesson I learned in the past. Just label CD's with a felt pen.
:2:
:2:
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Have you sen the new HP LightScribe. It etches the info and designe onto the CD after recording as you like, neat software/hardware combo.
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You mean, don't put lousy paper labels on... I've been doing it for two years in my Murano and not a single one has had an issue, other than my "Best of the Stranglers" creation, which had a lot of black ink. Made it a bit slippery for the mechanism, so I stay away from too much black now.lapriester said:
I agree, if you're not sure, don't do it... If it looks like it's not likely to come off, then don't sweat it.
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We always have said JAAK you are lucky in CD players, Mirrors and Love.
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