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I got the MO from my ex wife in our divorce. Its a 2013 with 102k miles. She told me its not charging and left her stranded a few times. So far I've replaced the battery and alternator but the brake and battery lights still comes on intermittently. Its left me on the side of the road twice and after being towed to the shop twice a ground wire under the battery on top of the transmission was tightened one full turn. The MO ran great for a few days and then the light returned. Ive called Nissan customer service at 1800-647-7261 and no help except have it towed to the dealer. No open campaigns or recalls. Ive traced wires from the alternator, ECM, fuse box under the hood, and the battery and all good clean/ tight connections. Ive taken the dash apart on both sides and found 3 grounding points that r all clean and tight. Im at a loss here y'all :banghead:

Battery is testing good and alternator intermittently fails but comes back after the battery and brake light flicker a minute
HELP!!!!
 

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If the alternator intermittently fails, then I would replace that first. I have dealt with aftermarket alternator that came from a bad batch years ago. I had to replace it 4 times (lifetime warranty) to get a good working one in a span of <2 years. The 4th one was of a different brand which is probably the reason it worked. I know its a pain to remove it. The first gen, had a recall on the alternators btw. Mine did not fail or anything but had the recall done anyways many moons ago. Good luck.
 

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You've done a nice job checking cables and connections - we done.

My solution may take a few days to work....

I would suggest getting a digital multimeter (they're not expensive and they're handy for all kinds of things) and testing voltage from + to - battery terminals with the car running. You should see around 14.4 volts. If your alternator is cutting in and out, you should see it.

Be aware that the Murano has an intelligent charging system and although the voltage should show 14+ volts right after you start it, as the battery gets back to a charged state, the charging voltage will drop back into the 12V range. If you see anything under 12V you have problem.

And if it won't start, carry the multimeter with you and check battery voltage. If it's under 12V it's not charging properly. If it's around 12.5V then your problem isn't battery charge, it's something else in the system.

My experience is that alternators either work or don't, but Nitely's experience is certainly possible, although highly unusual.
 

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I have an 03 my alternator and battery went with no warning go around a busy turn. In the morning I had my battery tested, it was completely dead. I left my MO. across from a parts store so I bought a new battery got across the street tested the alternator which I knew was bad but I wanted the printout to so I could drop it off at the mechanics when I had it towed. (I don't trust mechanics) The shop calls saying nothing is wrong with my vehicle, I go start it and the battery light is once again on. They finally agreed the alternator was bad I had it back for a month before I had to tow it back because of the alternator again! This thim the shop had no record of ever working on my vehicle... I'm so done with this Murano!
 

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I have a 2010 Murano that died on me last week. Had it towed to the nearest mechanic. Battery, alternator, and starter all tested good, no other codes. After 3 days, they finally decided to replace the alternator. Now my brake and battery/charge lights keep coming on and off intermittently. When I took it back, the mechanic told me to try to use as little power while driving as possible as everything was testing fine. I think their tester may need testing. Lol. My car doesn't seem as zippy, either.

Any suggestions?
 

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Any luck? My battery and brake lights keep coming on intermittently. Same thing, car doesn't seem as zippy (sometimes it bogs down, other times works great) but my alternator keeps testing fine. Anybody able to fix this problem?
 

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Any luck? My battery and brake lights keep coming on intermittently. Same thing, car doesn't seem as zippy (sometimes it bogs down, other times works great) but my alternator keeps testing fine. Anybody able to fix this problem?
Even though my alternator and battery tested good, they replaced the alternator. It's the only thing they could come up with. I drove it for a week and it broke down again. Apparently the alternator was faulty and they replaced it again - at no cost to me. Then a week later, the battery died. So far, since both have been replaced, I've had no problems. Knock on wood...
 

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Any luck? My battery and brake lights keep coming on intermittently. Same thing, car doesn't seem as zippy (sometimes it bogs down, other times works great) but my alternator keeps testing fine. Anybody able to fix this problem?
Oh, and the faulty alternator ALSO tested good. Same as my battery.
 

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Wow, talk about crappy luck. Also raises some questions about the battery and alternator testing procedures.
 

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Wow, talk about crappy luck. Also raises some questions about the battery and alternator testing procedures.
Oh, I completely agree! All is good now. Fingers crossed. I have 149k miles on it and still love it as much as I did when it was new and don't relish the thought of trading it in yet.
 

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Any luck? My battery and brake lights keep coming on intermittently. Same thing, car doesn't seem as zippy (sometimes it bogs down, other times works great) but my alternator keeps testing fine. Anybody able to fix this problem?
Have your battery load tested, this will verify if it's good.

Also check your alternator output with a multimeter. It should be over 14 volts when checked just after a cold start of your engine.
 

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I have a 2010 Murano that died on me last week. Had it towed to the nearest mechanic. Battery, alternator, and starter all tested good, no other codes. After 3 days, they finally decided to replace the alternator. Now my brake and battery/charge lights keep coming on and off intermittently. When I took it back, the mechanic told me to try to use as little power while driving as possible as everything was testing fine. I think their tester may need testing. Lol. My car doesn't seem as zippy, either.

Any suggestions?
I’m having the same issue. My car just died AGAIN! Thank goodness I was in a parking space when it did. I’ve had the alternator changed once and the battery changed twice. In the past year. I’m at a loss at what to do with this car.
 

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Check your alternator output, it should be over 14 volts after a cold start.

It's not unusual for rebuilt replacement alternators to fail. I have seen a number of stories of people having to replace them multiple times until they get a good one...
 

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It's not unusual for rebuilt replacement alternators to fail. I have seen a number of stories of people having to replace them multiple times until they get a good one...
This is the main reason to go with a new OEM product when dealing with replacing today's alternators. Rebuilds of the Japanese alternators seem to have an extremely high electrical failure rate. I've noticed the same issue with Toyota, Infiniti, and several other Japanese manufactures.

If the Murano alternator wasn't such a pain to replace, it might make sense to go with a rebuild, but not in the Murano's case.

This falls in right along with having to stick with using only Japanese sparkplugs. Anything but those, and the vehicle will just runs like crap. At $800+ w/labor to replace sparkplugs, again, it's not worth going with anything other then the OEM brand sparkplugs.

To save money, shop the internet. Plenty of Nissan dealers out there are now selling parts on the internet. I can usually find the item I need for about 50 to 70% less then the standard dealer price.

Have a good day.
 

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Check your alternator output, it should be over 14 volts after a cold start.

It's not unusual for rebuilt replacement alternators to fail. I have seen a number of stories of people having to replace them multiple times until they get a good one...
Thanks, I’ll have the mechanic look into this
 

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Thanks, I’ll have the mechanic look into this
If you have a digital multimeter in the house, set it to DC volts, start the engine and use the probes on the meter to touch the + and - battery terminals. You'll see the voltage on the meter's readout. If you don't have one, ask a friend with one to do it. Easy, and takes about 30 seconds.
 
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