[Nfilippelli]

So last march i was having my car serviced, and was having the braking shudder / judder effect, so the service dept said they would do the TSB and replace my pads... so i was like cool.
Now here i am, less than a year later, and my brakes have started squealing... like they need to be replaced... i am gonna have it checked out tommorrow...
But it seems very wrong that the brake pads should be replaced so soon...
My last 2 cars, a Ford Explorer, and a Ford Taurus before that, it took me like 40K or so to need new brake pads.
Whats the deal!
Anyone have any idea why this would be happening?

-Nerf

 

[Kris]

I did not touch break pads in my Taurus for 63k miles when I sold it.

Anyway, I have 30k miles on MO now and the break pads look OK. I did have a problem though with brake judder a few months ago. It was fixed under warranty – dealer turned rotors an since then everything is working perfectly.

How many mile do you have?

 

[Nfilippelli]

i have about 28K

is there a link to the TSB?
i want to make sure that they did everything correctly when they fixed the brakes the first time, when i had the judder.

-Nerf

 

[GripperDon]

They replaced my brake pads on the G35 at about 3500 miles for the rears and 4500 for the fronts. Maybe it's a Nissan thing.

 

[Hossley]

I had my rotors turned at about 20K for the same reason. Now at 31K the shudder has returned. I am taking it in for regular maintenance and will have them fix it again (they'll probably turn the rotors again). Interestingly enough, my 2002 Sentra had the same brake rotor problem, they replaced those.

 

[Gonzo]

If you can believe this (although a small car) my 1989 Nissan Pulsar went over 100K on the front pads yes the front pads, they usually wear out faster than the rear brakes... the service department couldn't believe they were the original pads. It think the fact that is was a light car, I'm gentle on the brakes and I always doubled clutched to slow down helped.

Boy that was a great little car.

 

[Nfilippelli]

what gets me annoyed is that i had my front pads replaced when they fixed the shudder issue, they said that the warping or whatever in the rotors was causing premature wear of the brake pads, so the new pads have really only been used for about 15K or so.

i got an appointment for Wed, hopefully i can get this settled for little $$$, i just don't want to pay for new pads.

-Nerf

 

[Eric L.]

What kind of squealing issues? If they squeal only when applied, its likely the mastic goo compound on the back of the pads has worn away, causing the pads to vibrate a little. If they squeal even when you are not applying the brakes (like on initial acceleration), those are the wear indicators and then the pads will need to be replaced.

Let us know what the dealer says. I have squealing brakes (while braking) since day one. Dealer has refused to fix it, even though it is clearly an assembly problem. I'll probably "re-goo" the pads with CRC Disc Brake Quiet (the red brand) when the weather gets warmer.

 

[Nfilippelli]

What kind of squealing issues? If they squeal only when applied, its likely the mastic goo compound on the back of the pads has worn away, causing the pads to vibrate a little. If they squeal even when you are not applying the brakes (like on initial acceleration), those are the wear indicators and then the pads will need to be replaced.

Let us know what the dealer says. I have squealing brakes (while braking) since day one. Dealer has refused to fix it, even though it is clearly an assembly problem. I'll probably "re-goo" the pads with CRC Disc Brake Quiet (the red brand) when the weather gets warmer.

right now they only squeal when i apply the brake, and am moving slow. like towards the end of my braking process, when i am almost stopped.

so maybe its just the goo...

we shall see come wed.

-Nerf

 

[Eric L.]

right now they only squeal when i apply the brake, and am moving slow. like towards the end of my braking process, when i am almost stopped.

so maybe its just the goo...

we shall see come wed.

-Nerf

Its the goo, I get squealing on light braking as well. Your dealer might be nicer than mine and give you a free brake service.

 

[JeffC]

After only 900 miles both rear rotors are wearing unevenly. The service dept says this is normel because the MO uses a hard brake compound. Maybe, but even if they are using a hard compound the rotor should be made of a material that is compatible with the pads. I've used racing compounds on other cars and not had a problem with the rotors even after several seasons of track use.

JeffC

 

[GripperDon]

Jeff How did you determin this?

 

[JeffC]

Jeff How did you determin this?

Gripper,

The grooves in the rotors are obvious from 10 feet away. You can see them and feel them. BTW - I convinced the sales mgr to give me 4 new rotors back when they had to resurface the fronts. At that time I could see that both front and rear were glazed. Now the service guy is trying to cut cost or avoid replacing parts that are just going to fail again.

What the service guy was really saying was that the MO's rotors are not made of a hard enough steel or they run too hot and a new set will just do the same thing. This foots with the glazing, warping, grinding and squeaking problems that many of us are having. More top-notch technology from Nissan?

JeffC

At least it looks good....

 

[GripperDon]

WOW thanks for the info. I thought I read on here or somewhere about aftermarket rotors availability. I'll have to look into that, If I have a problem.

 

[lapriester]

Look here:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=88433&item=5551700547&rd=1

Or here:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7948350554&category=33564

Larry

 

[GripperDon]

THANKS Sounds just like what the doctor ordered.

Wonder how much of a problem it would be to make the change over yourself?

 

[Eric L.]

Cross drilled or sloted rotors will NOT improve your braking performance measureably on a street car. In fact, the slots and holes take away from the mass of the rotor, effectively dimishing its ability to act like a heat sink during braking (which is the point of a rotor).

If you are track racing the heating those pads up to the point they begin to outgas, sure racing rotors would help.

For street driving, I recommended contacting Porterfield Brakes and asking if they have Brembo blank rotors. They are like the stock rotors except they have been cryo treated to be extra durable. In combination with some good aftermarket performance street pads (such as Porterfield R4S) you will have an unbeatable braking combo which fits the stock caliper assembly. It is my understanding that the FX uses the same brake assembly as the Murano, so the pads should be interchangable. Porterfield current offers Hawk brake pads for the FX, which should fit the Murano.

Please don't waste your money on the bling bling look without the performance.

 

[GripperDon]

Does that mean the FX brakes warp and Squeal also?

 

[Eric L.]

Does that mean the FX brakes warp and Squeal also?

Depends whether the robots building the FX use enough of the goo for the pad backing.

 

[GripperDon]

I do like the idea of the groves de-glazing the pads, and maybe the holes will keep the rotors cool so they won't warp.