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Discussion Starter #1
OK, thanks to Homer and LKimura there is more to learn here than meets the eye guys. All I wanted to do was get a good quality low speed buffer and ended up in deep voodoo! :D

Found Homers 7336 on Porter Cables random orbit sander page 2500-6000 opm.


The porter cable on the Griot's Garage page shows 10625. Not much detail on that jewel, but suspect it is the 7336 :8: . And on the Porter Cable site, 10625 isn't even listed.

But found the 7428 here. and is variable from 1000-3000 or 0-3000 with the trigger.

And the Makita 9227 0-3000 on the same site properautocare.com. But learned about circular and random orbit in this usage tip:

Usage Tip: Circular polishers like this Makita are typically used to compound, level, polish and remove swirls. They are not used to apply wax or sealant/protectants (although some waxes, sealants & protectants can be applied with a high speed machine). It is not unusual for a detailer to use a high speed machine to compound and polish a car and then switch to a dual action machine (Porter Cable 7424) to apply the final wax or protectant. When applying a compound and polish, I have found most products work best in the 800 to 1,100 rpm speed range. This is a very safe speed range to stay within. I have been able to remove most swirls and paint defects in this speed range and have never created swirls or burned the paint.

So, there is no sich animal that I was looking for. If you want to remove swirls and scratches, you want one. If you want to buff/polish you want another.

And then this paragraph on that last page:

Dual action polishers (like the Porter Cable 7424) visually reduce swirls by rounding over top edge of the swirl robbing sunlight of a sharp edge to cause a reflection. Fillers in the polish then fill in the swirl making it less noticeable. While the vehicle looks swirl-free, the swirls are still there and re-appear over time. A high speed polisher actually removes the swirl by removing the layer of paint down to the lowest point of the swirl. With a little patience, practice and common sense, anyone can master the skill needed to create a swirl-free, mirror bright finish.


Arrrrrrrgh! :banghead:

Uncle!
 

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Stay away from Circular buffers IMO.
In the wrong hands, like mine for instance, they CAUSE swirls.

THere is a LOT of misinformation out there on the Internet.
Too much to argue with.
It's like a tidal wave of crap.

I've got to go over to FA and destroy a BSer on the Langka system.
But he will be replaced with another BSer.

Homer
 

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I bought a random orbital buffer - works really nice. I have used the circular buffers in the past - and it is very easy to make a mistake if you don't know what you're doing. However, the circulars create more heat which makes it easier to remove problem areas - but it could create some if you're not careful.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. It's starting to sink in. Very confusing at first.

Ok, I want the PC random orbit/DA buffer/polisher/sander.

If I get the 10625 at Griots Garage appears to be the PC 7336SP with the 16005 6" conversion kit (balancing weights screws and standard profile pad). And it appears the PC 7336SP is the PC 7424 with a PC 18007 hook & loop 6" pad in addition to the standard PC 54745 pad the PC 7424 comes with (although it may be 5"). But the lack of detailed information on the GG page and missing pictures and parts list/manual lniks on the PC page makes this a guess.

Now, the 10625 at GG is $199.95. At ProperAutoCare the PC 7424 ($129.95) with velcro backing pad ($16.95) and white polishing pad ($9.95) ultimate machine ($149.99 - $156.85 individualy) and $3.95 balancing weights is $153.90 ($160.80 individualy). And the 7336 is $109.00 at Lowes with a bunch of 80D sanding paper!

But...neither the GG or PAC pages say who makes their pads, 3M, Lake Country or otherwise. And to make matters worse, there are yellow, white, grey, orange and red pads. Not to mention lambs wool which apparently you use with terry cloth bonnets but they're not recommended anymore by either GG or PAC.

:1zhelp:

Well at least PAC sells the P21S I'm looking for. :D
 

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Enforcer said:
Yes you did LK, you all have, thanks. :) I'm learning a lot. Trying to have some humor at the same time. It all makes sense, just a lot to know and contemplate which is good IMO. Will check local stores tomorrow and maybe learn some more!

please let me know which one you DO get..... (model number as well).....

i think i'll follow your lead here, and save the learning for the application - part... instead (limited retention here, as of late!!)

S

happy hunting!
 

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You might consider going to a tool store and buying one.

That's what I did a few years ago.

The ability to talk to a guy who knew what he was doing was a real advantage (And rare) but the ability to see and handle the stuff I was buying was priceless.

The danger is that the guy might direct you to one that was slightly better for the same price.....
Co-incidentally it might also come with a higher commision.;)

I buy a lot over the net. But not everything that I could.

I would not buy from Griots Garage at those prices. They add no value other than package the counterweights and pads and stuff. You already have that stuff figured out.


In any event, you could have my PC.

If you could pry it from my cold, dead, hands, that is.:jester:


Homer
 

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I think we need to resurrect this thread….

Last weekend I detailed both of my cars. I was quite happy with the Murano but not the FX. I always thought that the FX had a better quality paint. I guess I overestimated it. As I was too busy to wash and wax it for a few months it is only now that I discovered scratches, swirls and all sort of dots, spots etc…..hand washing did not help much. I do not think a clay bar would help either. So my thoughts are let’s use a machine. A random orbital buffer as for example the Porter Cables 7336SP. Need advice – does it work? I know there are dangers but I really need to get the FX fixed.
 

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Kris-

Wow, you are really reaching back for this one. The last post on this thread was over three years ago.

Using an orbital polisher on the MO scares me because Nissan's paint appears to be very fragile.

Here's an article from Autopia discussing the proper use of the Porter Cable 7424 Polisher - Detailing Guide

I hope it helps.

-njjoe
 

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Sure SOUNDS like it could use a Claying.......and then we can talk about the next step.

Homer
 

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Thanks Joe,

the FX paint is harder. The problem was that the FX got some beating, I mean some "nice" people took care of it.......my wife parks almost every day at a large mall so you can imagine what happens....
 

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hfelknor said:
Sure SOUNDS like it could use a Claying.......and then we can talk about the next step.

Homer
Homer,

I used clay on the FX a year or so ago. It worked that time. Now I am pretty sure it would help but no more than 50%....
 

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Obviously I am a fan of the PC.
But detailing a damaged paint job is like being a Dr....
"Do no Harm".

And do as much as you can with as little as you can.

I would Clay it and get that 50% corrected.

Then I would analyze where I wanted to start.
Do I start with wet sandpaper? Do I use Compound? If so what weight? do I use Glaze? Will Polish do it?
Always keeping in mind that I want to do as much as I can with as LITTLE as I can..
Good luck.


At the mall every day!!??

Homer
 

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hfelknor said:

At the mall every day!!??
Homer
No everybody go to a mall to shop.........;)
 
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